Thread: Disassembly using pen press

FWIW, I use and prefer the transfer punch method. A couple of nice swift blows to the punch and the parts are free

Cheers
Tony.

I couldn't find the old post either.
You need to drill a hole in a block of wood just slightly larger than the nib section. place the nib end into this hole, the block should contact the body of the pen. Slip a small transfer punch through the tranny to contact inside the nib. Place this arrangement on the press and press the on punch-end pushing off the nib.
Now you need a block with a hole larger than the tranny, but smaller than the body. Place a punch inside the tube against the inside of the tranny and press the tranny out.
3rd block, drill so clears the final, chisel so the clip clears. Place punch inside tube and press out final.

Sorry I do not have pictures. Hope this helps.

Question

Why take a pen a part - are we only saving the parts or can be do this without damaging the timber?

I took one apart recently only to salvage parts as I was low on parts.


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Question

Why take a pen a part - are we only saving the parts or can be do this without damaging the timber?

I took one apart recently only to salvage parts as I was low on parts.


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

There are many reasons to disassemble a pen Dave. It might be to replace a faulty or worn component, move fittings to re-align grain or pattern in the finished blank, salvage bodies, salvage components (some are too exxie to just discard) or maybe to re-furbish a well loved favourite. Just to name a few.

WRT transfer punches, I was advised to make sure both ends were flat and level before using one, by grinding back any nipple that might be left at one end. I'm not sure if it makes a difference but it helps to have a flat face make contact with a fitting if you know both end are flat.

Originally Posted by dabbler

There are many reasons to disassemble a pen Dave. It might be to replace a faulty or worn component, move fittings to re-align grain or pattern in the finished blank, salvage bodies, salvage components (some are too exxie to just discard) or maybe to re-furbish a well loved favourite. Just to name a few.

WRT transfer punches, I was advised to make sure both ends were flat and level before using one, by grinding back any nipple that might be left at one end. I'm not sure if it makes a difference but it helps to have a flat face make contact with a fitting if you know both end are flat.

How do you grip the pen without damaging it?

Even with the pen press and a block with a hole would that not risk damaging the timber?

I hope he OP does not mind me asking these questions, thought it would be real handy to have all this info in one place as I am interested in his question plus these.


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

I hold pen and punch in one hand, trying to palm the fitting so it doesn't fly out, and start with two or three gentle taps on the punch with a wooden mallet before I really thump it. Sometimes skin pinches and breaks I'll admit, but the parts are safe.

Thanks guys especially Brad for explaining the pen press part. I need to re-do the finish on some pens, they have faded and the pen looks lifeless, if i lose a couple of pens along the way, too bad. Brad i tried to disassemble the nib on a pen by using a block with a small hole that was just bigger than the nib but the barrel just got stuck in the block of wood, maybe there are limitations to this method or i was using the wrong wood?

Originally Posted by Tiger

Thanks guys especially Brad for explaining the pen press part. I need to re-do the finish on some pens, they have faded and the pen looks lifeless, if i lose a couple of pens along the way, too bad. Brad i tried to disassemble the nib on a pen by using a block with a small hole that was just bigger than the nib but the barrel just got stuck in the block of wood, maybe there are limitations to this method or i was using the wrong wood?

It can be difficult to press a pen apart without damaging the wood, especially if the wood section is close in diameter to the nib. The selection of wood for the block is tricky too. Too hard and it will dent your wood pen, too soft and it will distort and cause other issues such as wedging the wood section, as you experienced.
I have pressed pens apart, but I usually prefer to knock them apart as others described already. One tip I would suggest is to hammer the pen over a cardboard box so the box will gently catch any parts that come flying off. I still have not found some parts I lost when I forgot to use a box.

Brad

Thanks Brad.

These are what I use and they work great. Another little trick is I put vasoline on all the pen parts as I put them in and I always tell people it makes them easier to put parts in but the truth is it makes it a hell of a lot easier to get the back out if you have too
http://www.garypye.com/Pen-Accessori...-Set-p818.html

Cheers Ian

I always had problems disassembling Emperors and the like, mainly because the long plastic insert in the cap makes for a tight fit, recently, had cause to pull one apart because I was not satisfied with the finish, and I really wanted to keep the same blank along with the kit.
I made an "Emperor" dismantling kit!!!!, a block of soft wood, drilled a hole through it to the diameter of the blank, then cut it in half, trimmed the hole edges a bit and then put the cap in between , bit like a wood sandwich full length of the blank, put the sandwich in the vice, a container underneath and using the flat end of a drill bit of the correct size, whacked the bit with a piece of red gum block and it dismantled quite easily, the catch, watch you don't tighten the vice too much. I will try to post photos later, Amos

As promised here are some pictures, I will also attempt posting on the Tutorials, Please note, while this is a rough jig, it could be done nicely with Delrin, or Timber,; also with a little more care and precision it could look good. The main reason for doing it this way with the larger pens is the large surface area of the centring plastic tubing inside the cap makes it very difficult to remove, even if it has been "oiled"
Dismantling Emperor Cap.pdf

Originally Posted by PenTurner

As promised here are some pictures, I will also attempt posting on the Tutorials, Please note, while this is a rough jig, it could be done nicely with Delrin, or Timber,; also with a little more care and precision it could look good. The main reason for doing it this way with the larger pens is the large surface area of the centring plastic tubing inside the cap makes it very difficult to remove, even if it has been "oiled"
Dismantling Emperor Cap.pdf

Thanks PenTurner, very helpful .

the picture is not working for me


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art