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  1. #1
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    Default Why doesn't my workshop pencil advance???

    I have just made my first workshop pencil (kit from Pops Shed) and after following what can only be described as the most vague & poorest instructions that I have ever come across (even Ikea could have done better) the pen has been assembled and though it looks ok the lead doesn't advance when the plunger is pushed. Any suggestions at all?
    I'm glad that I only bought these for personal use as the these things really are a piece of s--t for the price they charge and I dont think that I would have the cheek to sell them to some poor unsuspecting soul.

    Cheers Rumnut

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Spreading the clutch jaws should help.

    From memory you will need take out the lead so you can get to the clutch after the nib is unscrewed. It's an easy fix.

    Sorry I can't remember the exact method.

    This thread has several bits of info on assembly.
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f69/ar...ky-oak-165482/
    Last edited by dabbler; 6th March 2013 at 08:30 PM. Reason: added extra info.

  4. #3
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    Hi Tevor sorry to hear that you are having some dramas with the workshop pecil because they are actually a pretty good kit. If you look at the instruction that i have posted in the other thread they may help and if not give john a ring because he makes a stack of them and it is as simple as a spring being in the wrong way but give him a ring i am sure he can help you.


    Cheers Ian

  5. #4
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    Thanks Ian I all ready have your instructions butbalthough they make things a little clearer than the suppliers, they still leave a bit of guess work. For example there is a small washer in the kit but no instructions on where it goes, they also say to pull the sharpener off the transmission but it isn't on there to start with. The transmission has some tags part way up the transmission, I assume to stop the spring from sliding up the barrel but they are not in the center so which end does the spring go on?. The sharpener requires super glue to hold it in but once this is glued in the pen is assembled and if you've got it wrong because ther is so much guess work it dont want to come apart again so you are stuck. They probably as you say are a pretty nice kit but they would be even better if the instructions were a bit clearer, my feelings are if they are going to sell these kits then supply instructions that are clear and concise, is that too much to ask? After all these aren't a 2 or 3 dollar kit.Cheer Rumnut

  6. #5
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    gold coast
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    Rumnut ! some of the kits come preassembled ,the ones you have by the sounds of it do not, the washer goes on the shorter end up to the dimple then the spring goes on and after that the threaded end with the collet inside it is pressed on to the tube compressing the spring ,this is tricky and you can bugger it up easily at this point as you have to press the collet part and can do it harm , I put a short bit of 6 mm solid into the collet when pressing ,this stops the collet being compressed and too tight to allow the lead to drop down,even when fully open The plunger end should unscrew and that then becomes a single blade lead sharpener .You may have to adjust the opening of the collet to allow the lead to move freely when the plunger is released as it is a gravity feed ,its a simple fix if you havn.t glued the bits together yet These are a bit overpriced but people love them cheers ~ John
    G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!

  7. #6
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    Thanks John I have actually worked out all of what you said and you are right this kit comes un assembled which would not be an issue if the instructions made allowances for that. I have managed to use transfer punches to gradually open the collet a bit and the lead is now advancing as it should be.
    043 turnings have also published instructions for this kit and these are a bit clearer with a better diagram to go by which also shows the washer in place but even on this diagram the washer is not labeled and could easily be missed and if this is not done prior to gluing in the sharpener then it may be to late and there goes another pen in the bin. They also mention about the internal thread at the glue up stage which the CSUSA instructions dont. Again get this wrong and you could end up with the grains/patterns not matching resulting in an unsellable or discounted pen.
    Any way its working now so thanks all for your imput it is appreciated.

    Rumnut

  8. #7
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    Oct 2008
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    Just came across this thread. I had similar issues with my first workshop pencil. After assembling it as per instructions, it didn't work properly either.
    Now that I've figured it out, it works quite well but nothing like their instructions.

    When it's assembled correctly, the spring action will work allowing you to press in from the back end and this will extend the claws. It won't push the lead out like a normal mechanical pencil - it simply releases the claws to allow the lead to fall out a little bit with gravity.

    The kits aren't cheap, but they are really well received by the people I have shown. And I think a lot of the money for the kits goes into the brass tubes. The ones I purchased are from Pop's Shed. They are by far the thickest grade of brass I have ever seen in a pen kit, giving me confidence that the pen is nice and sturdy.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bassmansimon View Post
    Just came across this thread. I had similar issues with my first workshop pencil. After assembling it as per instructions, it didn't work properly either.
    Now that I've figured it out, it works quite well but nothing like their instructions.

    When it's assembled correctly, the spring action will work allowing you to press in from the back end and this will extend the claws. It won't push the lead out like a normal mechanical pencil - it simply releases the claws to allow the lead to fall out a little bit with gravity.

    The kits aren't cheap, but they are really well received by the people I have shown. And I think a lot of the money for the kits goes into the brass tubes. The ones I purchased are from Pop's Shed. They are by far the thickest grade of brass I have ever seen in a pen kit, giving me confidence that the pen is nice and sturdy.
    The reason for the thicker tubes is to have a thread in them but generally they are a solid kit I join the tubes and make a longer blank to show off the materials better ,and I don't go much on the centre band joiner , cheers ~ John
    G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gawdelpus View Post
    The reason for the thicker tubes is to have a thread in them but generally they are a solid kit I join the tubes and make a longer blank to show off the materials better ,and I don't go much on the centre band joiner , cheers ~ John
    Hey John I actually like thenidea of no centre band, how did u join the tubes?

    Rumnut

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdrumnut View Post
    Hey John I actually like thenidea of no centre band, how did u join the tubes?

    Rumnut
    Rumnut I found a tube that just doesn't quite fit inside the standard pencil tubes,not sure which kit its from (I have lots of different tubes to play with) I cut off about 20 mm and place it in my vise lengthways and with a hacksaw I split the tube on one side , this allows it to compress to fit inside and then I araldite it into both tubes leaving a gap of about 6 mm between the tubes,this keeps the length at about the same as if it had the joiner in place ,just remember to leave the threaded bit at one end for assembly later on . After that it is drill a long blank and glue up and finish as usual again remember the tenon on the opposite end to your threaded bit , for the Hexagon anti roll section . Some of the kits need the plunger glued in place after assembly ,minimal glue required After I glued the lead into one of these I always take out the lead before gluing hehe. Mind you while I am writing this I am thinking I could just turn the hex off the provided joiner and use that instead of a tube Next time hehe, cheers ~ John
    G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gawdelpus View Post
    Rumnut I found a tube that just doesn't quite fit inside the standard pencil tubes,not sure which kit its from (I have lots of different tubes to play with) I cut off about 20 mm and place it in my vise lengthways and with a hacksaw I split the tube on one side , this allows it to compress to fit inside and then I araldite it into both tubes leaving a gap of about 6 mm between the tubes,this keeps the length at about the same as if it had the joiner in place ,just remember to leave the threaded bit at one end for assembly later on . After that it is drill a long blank and glue up and finish as usual again remember the tenon on the opposite end to your threaded bit , for the Hexagon anti roll section . Some of the kits need the plunger glued in place after assembly ,minimal glue required After I glued the lead into one of these I always take out the lead before gluing hehe. Mind you while I am writing this I am thinking I could just turn the hex off the provided joiner and use that instead of a tube Next time hehe, cheers ~ John
    Thanks John

    Rumnut

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