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Thread: Drilling blanks

  1. #1
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    Default Drilling blanks

    Another question to the wise and experienced.

    I have been using a drill press and a blank drilling centre vice to hold the blanks while drilling. Problem is that because the bits are all different lenghts, I have had to put varying thicknesses of timber blocks under the vice to adjust the height from the base. Not a big problem except this process is not guaranteed to hold the blank square. I have seen some people using the lathe to centre drill the blanks. Hence my question.

    With a Woodfast midi MT2 what additional pieces would I need to allow me to use this method as well.

    Also, if the blank is not an exact square at the ends can the tools be adjusted to allow for this or not. With the vice I can move it about a bit before I lock it down to the drill press and this allows for blanks that are not a square a the ends. Some are almost rectangle.

    Thanks for any advice.

    Greg
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

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  3. #2
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    Greg,

    I also use a drill press and self centering vice, however I do not need to keep re-setting the height of my drill press table. Maybe you just need to find the ultimate height and set it. I move the blanks up and down slightly in the vice to accommodate. I do however use drills from a set and they are fairly close in length too.
    I have used the lathe to drill my blanks also with a chuck at the head stock to hold the blank and a quick release drill chuck with taper in my tail stock. It did work a treat and is always on centre, but for me as I only have the one lathe ment I had to keep changing things when I wanted to the turn pens, so I stick with the drill press and self centering vice

    Just my thoughts and experiences
    Cheers
    Tony.

  4. #3
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    I use the lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and jacobs chuck. I used to use my drill press but as I collect most of my own burls and other bits for blanks and am not too flash about squaring it up I find it easier to centre the holes on the lathe. It does mean changing over from mandrels and live centre to the chucks but have it all close at hand and takes but seconds.

    I also use the lathe to press the pen parts together using morse tapers from old mandrels fitted with wooden ends for different applications. cheers Des

  5. #4
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    hey greg
    amos aka woodenink posted a thred only a few weeks ago https://www.woodworkforums.com/f69/on...stions-149315/
    check out his post on page 2 #30 it shows the setup i have as it only has 2 jaws
    it doesnt matter if rectangle or odd shape
    well worth the money in that thread it also gives links to suppliers

  6. #5
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    Thanks all. I looked at Amos' post. I will do some follow up with McJing.

    greg
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by plantagenon View Post
    Thanks all. I looked at Amos' post. I will do some follow up with McJing.

    greg
    greg thats what i got and recommended it to amos trust me its worth it !!

  8. #7
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    Thanks Troy

    I have sent an email to them to find out what other attachements I need to use it on my lathe.

    Greg
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  9. #8
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    Dedicated Pen Blank Drilling Chuck at Penn State Industries


    Best money you can spend. Drilling on the lathe is the way to go. As far as changing things many times you need to do things as an assembly line if you want efficiency. I have had all kinds of problems with 4 jaw chucks trying to line things up and it is not worth the effort. These chucks are made for what we do. The only thing better is if you can use a collet chuck but the size and shape of the blank may not allow this.

  10. #9
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    Thanks JT

    I am making some enquiries about costs with a company in Australia. PSI has some great gear but their shipping costs to Australia is very high. I also have to get a chuck that will take a 14.5mm drill bit or get a recess cut into the bit.

    Greg
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  11. #10
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    Greg you can get chucks that will take 16mm bits , but almost all drills can be turned to a smaller dia to fit say a 1/2 inch chuck. The shank of the drills are not hardened ,but are usually high tensile ,even on high speed drill bits . Always something else comes along just when you think you have it all under control cheers ~ John
    G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!

  12. #11
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    John

    I have had a look at a few sites but haven't been able to find any chuck with a MT2 taper attached that will take more than 13mm. I will keep searching and see what I can come up with. Otherwise as you said I will have to take my drill bits to a machine shop and have them reduced to fit 13mm.

    Greg
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  13. #12
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    Greg, there are any number of tooling supply companies that can supply 5/8"-16mm chucks
    eg CDCO has one for $US28 or a keyed 5/8" chuck for $US16

    Attachment 205487

    As you can from that page their keyless 5/8 chuck takes a J6 taper, so if we go a bit further down that page and look for a J6-MT2 arbor wefind they cost all of $US5.00

    Attachment 205488

    Haven't checked McJing but I'm sure that they will have the same chucks and arbors, or indeed Hare and Forbes.

    Edit: Here is a 16mm keyless chuck at H&F

    C294 | Drill Chuck - Keyless Type | machineryhouse.com.au

    The arbor

    D442A | 2MT x JT3 Drill Chuck Arbor | machineryhouse.com.au

    McJIng keyless 16mm chuck

    http://www.mcjing.com.au/categorybro...categoryid=170

    B18 arbor is $12 a bit further down the page

  14. #13
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    Looks well covered Fred hehe ! Just to confuse here's some with a quick search on E-Pay
    Cheers ~ John
    G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!

  15. #14
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    Very well covered thanks.

    I have found a few places in England in the last half hour of Google searching with one on ebay. I am still waiting to hear back from McJing as I had to send them the spindle thread size. I imagine they will get back to me tomorrow. I am having a look at the other sites you suggested.

    Thanks again
    Greg
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  16. #15
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    Default

    [QUOTE=plantagenon;1473511]Another question to the wise and experienced.

    I have been using a drill press and a blank drilling centre vice to hold the blanks while drilling. Problem is that because the bits are all different lenghts, I have had to put varying thicknesses of timber blocks under the vice to adjust the height from the base.

    Hi Greg. Doesn't your drill press have a winder to raise and lower the table height ?.
    That drilling jig that JT posted looks great !. I'm almost tempted to send away to get one myself, haha. Saving my 'dosh' for the Wood Show in Brisbane to have a splurge
    I never forget anything I remember !!

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