Thread: just experimenting

Texx,

I had the same problems with stickers, but fixed it by increasingthe overlap on the stickers. I use Elegant Beauty kits for labels, which allows for more PR. Not sure if an increased overlap would work on other kits though.


I also burnish the joint with the side of a pen or similar.

Mike

Texx I had the same problem with the label lifting. I get my labels from http://www.decalpaper.com.au/ if you ask them to send you a sample pack they will. I found that you don't have to have an over lap. All the best.
David

Keep at it mate, There is a thread about this subject Here and well worth a read. will put you on the right track.

I can see your problem







Your using inferior teams try Souths

Keep trying you will reap the rewards later

Try this, it works great for me. After appliying your decal, waterslide, etc. , let it dry overnight (it has to be dry), then put a light coat of CA over it on the lathe. That seals it up. I would suggest waiting overnight again for the CA to cure, But I burnish mine on so I cast it right away. I touch it real light with some 400 grit before casting just for a little tooth.
This has worked every time for me. Maybe you will have the same success. Good luck to you.

Thanks for all the advice on all this label casting. But I may sound like an idiot i dont know alot about woodworking in general can you tell me what you mean by burnish the blank ?

Thanks Ian

to burnish just means to rub the surface with some thing that does not cut is probably the best i can describe it .
you can burnish with a hand full of wood shavings and the lathe running or the back side of the sand paper or any thing that does not remove material from the work .
when i was rod building i would burnish the under wrap cotton before i did the fancy binding i did that with the back of the handle of the tweezers i always had in my hand , it just flattens out the threads and helps fill in some of the tiny gaps in the cotton , on wood it flattens the wood fibers or kinda lays them all one way .
i am not real good at explaining things

I use the vinyl stickers, print them then stick onto the tube dont have to wait straight into the pressure pot to set over night.Texx did you email the mob that I get my labels from to get your free labels?
David

no i didnt cos i had a look at the site and didnt know which ones i would need so i left it at that , and have done no more about it .

Originally Posted by Rum Pig

I can see your problem







Your using inferior teams try Souths

Keep trying you will reap the rewards later

Yep, cannot agree more
Smart man that Rum Pig!

Do you have to cast a label? I looked at the above site and they carry the model decal paper. Iuse it and turn my pen out of wood. Usually a light color like maple or ash. I seal the wood with a light smooth coat of thin CA. Ten I apply the decal per the directions and allow to dry. Then apply multiple coats of thick CA, sand and polish.The trick is using the right amount of fixative after printing the decal. Too little and it will smear when applying and too much will make it bleed before applying. I made several trial runs with a piece of dowel. The frist pic is a maple Wall St II. The second is a Chrome Baron/Navigator in antler and turqoise truestone.

Thanks Mr Vic
Shows some promise
and they are only a couple of streets west of where I work

Originally Posted by rum pig

i can see your problem:d:d:d







your using inferior teams try souths:u:u:u:u

keep trying you will reap the rewards later

rotflmao :d:d:d