Thread: Finish under CA

Have you applied any form of wax/polish/friction polish after or during sanding ? All will darken the colour - some more than others. For darker timber I use normally uBeaut EEE and Shellawax, for lighter coloured timbers I would normally skip EEE and use Shellawax Cream, or go with one of the Carnauba wax preparations like uBeaut Traditional Wax or a Feast Watson product.

Some people swear by BLO (boiled linseed oil) as a way to enhance the grain. I've never done a side by side comparison of BLO and other finishes but the times I've used BLO under CA or BLO alternating with CA, it certainly has enhanced the timbers.

Bunnings and other h/ware stores have BLO and Feast-Watson Carnauba waxes and uBeaut products (who bring you the forums ! - thanks again Neil) are available online and from several places in Bris and Gold Coast (depending where you are).

Thanks for the info dabbler. I might try the BLO. Sounds like it may be the way to go. I toyed using some paraffin wax on a small piece of scrap to see how it went but I wasn't convinced with it. Though I'm not sure I could use paraffin and CA on the same piece anyway as they would react with each other.

Cheers
Rhys

When I use CA it's typically on top of a EEE/Shellawax combo. I'm not really a BLO convert. I'm not sure may here use BLO routinely either. Whatever you do, read up on older threads if possible. There is an option at the lower part of the screen that allows you to display older threads. The default is a month from memory. Searching help but results depend on the terms used. Sometime just scanning thread titles is simpler.

Some swear by the boiled linseed oil, I have tried it and had intermittent results.
I have gone back to using nothing under the CA, I have a better success rate.

I usually give the blank a wipe with some acetone on a rag, then blow it dry with compressed air, helps to clean out the grain as well as remove any oils in the timber, then just get straight into putting on the CA finish.
Works for me.

I pretty much use CA for a finish all the time &like Brad i don't use anything under the CA
I have learnt one lesson
During the hot weather store the CA in the fridge
Iv found out the hard way if the CA has been sitting out in the shed for too long while its been real hot it doesn't seem to go on all that good
I had better add that during the summer months i put my CA finish on during the night when its a bit cooler

Just thought id add my two cents worth
Cheers Tony

I'm with Ironwood. I've tried BLO under CA, but don't see a real difference between that and just straight CA.

I'll have to disagree with Dabbler, and not recommend putting it over any wax finish, as it may debond at a later date. Oils are good to bring out colour and grain, but I believe you must then wait for the oil to dry before applying the CA.

Many have used and swear by the BLO/CA method (ie applying at the same time), but in my experience I find I ended up with a BLO finish, the CA ends up on the rag. Those people that have shown me how to do it, also had the same result, they just didn't realise it. But hay, perhaps we were all doing it wrong.

I have tried this method.

Several coats of medium CA to begin with, then BLO on a new piece of paper towel allowing it to soak then a thin bead on CA on top. Bring the paper towel to the pen and apply. Then wrap the paper towel around the pen to get a bit of heat while moving from side to side.

It seems to save on sanding out the ridges as it gives a smoother finish. I have been applying twice.

There is residue of CA on the paper towel but I can not say what percent to the original bead. I have wondered what percent would be on the paper towel when applying with out BLO soaked into the paper.

So many ideas and so many different opinions. I'm not sure which way to go now. I may try a couple of different ways on scrap pine before I commit to using one on my first pen. That way I can see which one I'm happy with and which one works for me.

To confuse matters even more, my father in-law uses the hut was sticks and swears by them.

Cheers
Rhys

PS: to clarify, he only uses wax. He never uses CA as he thinks it looks too artificial.

i tried some wax first and then CA once and gave the pen to my wife and within a few days the CA had started to de laminate and i can now use a finger nail to lift off all the CA

Originally Posted by RhysM

So many ideas and so many different opinions. I'm not sure which way to go now. I may try a couple of different ways on scrap pine before I commit to using one on my first pen. That way I can see which one I'm happy with and which one works for me.

To confuse matters even more, my father in-law uses the hut was sticks and swears by them.

Cheers
Rhys

PS: to clarify, he only uses wax. He never uses CA as he thinks it looks too artificial.

Rhys ! it does take some trial and error to find your way through the "finishing maze" But in my experience if you want to sell your pens and get a fair price you have to go the extra mile , At one of the Markets I go to a guy sells wax polished slims for 12-15 dollars ,and has trouble to sell even a few each week The least expensive of mine are priced at $30 , but 9 times out of ten people will move on to the shiny "unnatural" highly polished " and more expensive pens , My pens are displayed in all weathers hot cold rainy etc, so they have to retain that brand new look and feel , waxes and glow and other friction finishes look great off the lathe ,but don't stand up to Market conditions. So think where you want to go with this addiction ,to give away as presents and keep it simple wax and friction finishes on timber is fine ,and people do like them for sure , but for me I cater to my market and what sells , more time and effort = more and better sales cheers ~ John

Thanks for the feedback John. I was thinking this my self. I would like to sell them at some point, so as you say it's worth putting in the extra effort. Think I might do a couple of waxed ones for use around the workshop, while I'm practicing different finishing methods on scrap pine. Once I'm happy with my a type and I think I've got the technique down then I'll move onto using it on my pens.

Thanks to all for your hints tips and words of wisdom. Can't wait til I get some time this weekend so I can get on the lathe.

Cheers

Rhys

Rhys, I agree with Neil. Wax under CA will not let the CA set into the timber properly. The only thing to watch with BLO being applied as a first coat is that it will give the timber an unnatural darker colour. I tried it with Huon Pine and it tends to ruin the natural butter/cream colours of Huon. CA along will give you the high shine protection with natural timber colours beneath.

I am experimenting with pure Tung Oil at the moment. The blanks should be dry by now so I will assemble the pens soon. Pure Tung oil is very easy to apply but takes a long while to dry. Apparently it gives a very hard coating to the timber and protects it - we will see. Beware that not all Tung oils are pure. Tung oil is expensive and the pure oil is the one needed. Carbatec was the only place I could get pure oil and it was Liberon brand which is nearly $50 for 500ml. However, 500ml will last for years.

Experiment and have fun.