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Thread: Just finished. Arrows
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4th October 2006, 12:05 AM #16
I'd say so. It does seem to depend on the wood used though as some don't darken up as much as others.
I noticed the dark lines in a couple of the Harlequin pens and thought that they looked damned good. From memory, the lighter pittosperum didn't darken anywhere near as much as the redder timbers, so only the red diamonds had black edging. "Cool!" I thought to myself, "How did they manage that?" Then I realised they were using CA.
It's something I meant to try for myself and was tucked away in the dim, dark recesses of my memory. I'd probably have forgotten all about it if this thread hadn't come up. [Phew!]
- Andy Mc
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4th October 2006, 01:00 AM #17
[quote=Skew ChiDAMN!!;384912]I'd say so. It does seem to depend on the wood used though as some don't darken up as much as others.
Like you said the redder timbers would work best but I think it would have to do on how porous the grain was. Your Padauk, Red Cedar and maybe even your lighter American Walnut as well. The black line effect would be due to the absorbtion rate of the CA into the timber. Beter go to bed the brunette just wanted to know why I was still up, I mean awake. Talk more tomorrow guys.
Darren
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4th October 2006, 01:15 AM #18
I am tending to use the yellow wood glue - takes awhile to dry - as has been said, this gives time to re-gig when necessary - CA sticks to everything (had to come in and sand my fingers to find figertips again) and sometimes too fast. I have found that the yellow doesn't always dry clear -despite claims on the bottle. Timbecom are advertising a paler yellow (nearer white) wood glue that works the same as yellow but less colour.
JD
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4th October 2006, 01:16 AM #19
G'night. Me too, in a tic.
But I just had a thought about making one of these brickwork pens more easily and acurrately... unless you deliberately want a "rough-laid pattern," of course.
First, slice your blank square across into say, 1cm lengths, then glue it all back together. Once dried, cut it into lengthwise 5mm wide strips and glue them back together, offsetting every 2nd strip by 5mm to give you the brickwork effect on one side. (Errm... make that two sides, including the opposite one. Just to keep the pedants happy. )
Finally, I think you should be able to roll it 90° onto it's side and again cut lengthwise into 5mm strips, and you'd only need to flip over every 2nd strip over to give you the same pattern on the final two sides... or mebbe just do the 5mm offset again.
Hmmm...
This is ignoring minor problems like losses thru the saw kerf & sanding out sawmarks, of course. Actual sizes would very when put into practice... but this is only a thought exercise at the moment. Until tomorrow, anyway.
'Night all!
- Andy Mc
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4th October 2006, 09:01 AM #20
Darren but I made red lines in one pen it look real good but it blew to bits, I used my dyes for the resin and in the glue for a contrast it was looking pretty cool
bye
Toni
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4th October 2006, 10:41 PM #21
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5th October 2006, 08:59 AM #22
ok thanks Darren
Toni
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5th October 2006, 03:42 PM #23
You going to try it again, Toni? I'd like to see a pen made that way, but I've enough to do without adding more experiments to my "to-do queue." (And being lazy doesn't help. )
Darren... thinking a bit more 'bout the bricks, the method I suggested isn't the best, 'cos the bricks'll have end-grain and long-grain edges. Ideally, they should be cut at 45° to the grain with every cut, so the CA penetrates every side equally, and that ain't possible with my idea. Bummer.
- Andy Mc
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5th October 2006, 05:31 PM #24
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