Thread: Fumes from CA

Hey Mate,

Are you using any dust extraction? that will also help reduce the fumes.

Tony.

I'll second the dust extractor. Mine is running continuosly when I am using CA, I've never got a whiff of the fumes.

Edit- my extractor is vented to outside of the shed also.

Talk to Ray or wheelinround as he found out he is allergic to CA and nothing would help him except a CA ban you may be the same. Worth a chat anyway and if you do not know him he is a nice bloke just do not tell him I said so

I did suffer from headaches when applying CA and after using CA one day my wife stated that I was as high as a kite. I have not used it since as a finish.
I use EEE and Glow as a finish now

I will get an extractor and see if that works. I don't want to stop using CA because of the superior finish you get that is very hard to replicate with other finishes. I have found the EEE and Shellawax is great in the short term but when using it oil from fingers tends to stain the finish. I might have to swap over to Minwax Poly Wipe On.

There is also the lacquer dipping method. It gives quite a good finish. The main dissadvantage is it takes a bit longer than CA.
There was a "how to" in an old thread.
Here it is-
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f69/no...fferent-93495/

If you search 'lacquer dipping' in the pen forum you will get plenty more hits.

Hey Ironwood.

Thank you very much for pointing me in the right direction. I looked at the tutorial and it seems the finish is as good as CA although taking a little longer to get there. I really like the fact that the lacquer eventually fills in the gaps and ruts after about 3 coats. I have tried Minwax WOP and while it gives a brilliant finish, it shows up every failing in the turning as it doesn't really seal the gaps. I have to use CA first and then the WOP but it is a long process taking around a week to finish each pen.

I did quite a few pens with the lacquer dipping method, after I saw that tutorial.
I was/am happy with the results. Havent had any comebacks with the ones I sold. I have one still sitting in my shop for sale with my other pens, it still looks good.
The downside for me was the time that it took to finish a pen.
I was waiting an hour between coats, so it took all day.
But if you got the time, its a good result.

CA glue releases CYANIDE as it cures - the 'C' is for 'Cyano-' referring to cyanide not the colour cyan.

I'm not sure which cyanide compound is released when applied to wood - hydrogen cyanide is one good possibility - they are all effectively very toxic, binding to the haemoglobin in the blood and the body does a poor job of removing the damaged blood cells, so it is effectively a cumulative poison.

An acquaintance suffered cumulative cyanide poisoning as an industrial chemist in mining and was told he could not use CA or come near cyanide compounds for 5-7 years, so watch the ventilation!

'Anyone get a headache when applying CA to a blank with a paper towel? I have put a fan on in the background but that stuff really makes the brain spin. Even turning a blank that has been sealed with CA produces the head ache smell. I use a positive air respirator but it still seems to sneak through. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong would be appreciated '

I have pretty severe allergies period but don't get headaches, I have twitches and epileptic type 'fits' instead. I have to be VERY careful with what I use for any aspect of woodwork. I use CA to glue tubes into pen blanks in a very well ventilated area only and if I feel a bit 'odd' afterwards then the pen turing has to wait. I can never use CA as a finish but I prefer a more natural finish anyway. I buff my pens with a skerick of sunflower oil on flannellete then finish with a pen friction polish stick from the Carbie people.

I had to use hot water on a squeezed out chux to take the rust protection gunk off my new Trupro scrollsaw. WD40 makes me fit lots and I would not be able to use my scrollsaw.....

I have similar reactions to medical alcohol swabs, cigarrete smoke, vehicle fumes, perfumes, enamel paint ect ect.......personally I would prefer a headache which I have not had since 1988...
Marg.

I have similar reactions to medical alcohol swabs, cigarrete smoke, vehicle fumes, perfumes, enamel paint ect ect.......personally I would prefer a headache which I have not had since 1988...
Marg.[/QUOTE]

OK Marg, THIS is what you need to solve your problems. 3M 7500 face mask with the PINK filters (for all noxiouse and poison vapours) [ame=http://www.amazon.com/3M-7500-Reusable-Half-Facepiece-Model/dp/B000Z53WKU/ref=pd_luc_sim_02_01_t_lh]Amazon.com: 3M 7500 Series Reusable Half-Facepiece; Model 7503; Size: Large: Industrial & Scientific[/ame] Super comfy & Cheap as ! . I beleive 'Blackwoods' are now stocking them.

Marg

Use Sika Poly glue instead of CA for gluing the pen tubes into the blanks. It takes 24 hours to dry but you avoid the fumes. You can buy it at Bunnings in the paint section in a small plastic bottle for around $6 and it will last for ages. Just make certain you buy the one that will stick timber to metal.

When you put the glue on the tube and insert it into the blank, wrap the blank in cling wrap and put it in a vice or clamp lengthwise so the tube is held in the blank, otherwise the Sika will force the tube out of the blank as it dries. I prefer it to CA as is is a harder finish and fills any gaps in the blank where it was drilled. Just clean up the ends of the tube with a sharp knife or a mill set when the glue dries.

Greg

Marg

Almost forgot. When you next go to the supermarket, buy a box of the disposable gloves, around $7 for a hundred. I use them when I apply CA so the chemicals are not absorbed through the skin.

Thanks Pariss I reckon I'll have to order the small size as I had to resew the velcro on my Dust Bee Gone mask to get a decent fit. I love those pink filters

Marg.