I'll give the Glen 20 a go. From the video it seems the frosty finish clears totally when the MM is applied.
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I'll give the Glen 20 a go. From the video it seems the frosty finish clears totally when the MM is applied.
I gave the Glen20 another go this afternoon.
I had better results this time. After watching the video again, and reading Davids comments, I tried moving the paper towel a lot slower than the first time, I could see the frosting dissapear as I went.
I held the can a lot further away as well, about 800mm ( with the dust extractor hose right behind the blank, it sucks it straight past the blank ) I just gave it one short burst.
I also went back to the normal speed I do my finishing at, 1800rpm, works for me .
OK I tried David's new Glen 20 following the instructions carefully and I finally managed to get success in one pen. However, the CA was put on too thick and I will have to sand back anyway as I got a few ridges :C. I think this time I was too light handed in applying the CA and it went on too thick whereas my previous drama was that I was too heavy handed and the MM cut through the thinly coated CA . Just my style that I have to perfect yet :~
Where I ran into problems was using a thick CA to fill the ruts in the timber and then using Glen 20. It resulted in a white streaky finish that could not be removed with the next coat (that's the multi timber blank in the photo I made up using off cuts from blanks).
When I used thin CA only (that I bought from David) it worked well on the final pen (photo of the one on the mandrel) but only after I sprayed it from a distance of around a metre.
End result = all blanks will have to be sanded back to timber.
Future outcome = Getting very sick of CA and I will try the PPG lacquer or simply go back to the ultra-slow WOP which gives a mirror finish but requires very fine sanding.
OK - Here is my latest efforts with CA and Glen 20. The timber I used is Eastern Red Cedar from the US. The Glen 20 does not give as smooth a finish as the spray fix which is more expensive. In fact in this round I have found that the timber has stained and I have white spot. If these blanks were human legs, a doctor would be treating them for tropical ulcers. My conclusion - I will throw out these blanks, start again with spare tubes and use Mitre fix as it does the job that I cannot achieve like David with Glen 20. Obviously there is a precis technique to use with Glen 20 that I cannot achieve.
So is the jury still out on this or has a verdict been reached.?
:((My verdict :((
I spent hours making a blanks from a variety of timbers only to use CA to glue the tube in as I wanted a fast turning and then only to have the bloody CA dry before I could get the tube in. Very, very annoyed:(( From here on in its Sika poly glue for gluing tubes into blanks for me even though it takes longer.
As for the Glen 20 - it can stay in the bathroom. I will use Mitre Fix if I ever use CA again. I have dipped one blank in PPG mixed with thinners and will see how it turns out. After the initial coat its looks ok but there are a lot more coats to go. Time and Patience is the criteria for this guy.
Yeah, I think we have all had that bugger of a problem when using thick CA to set the tubes into the blank. It depends alot on the type of timber & it's moisture content, as the slightest bit of moisture will act as an activator and kick off the CA before you get your tube half way in !:((.