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  1. #1
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    Default Glueing Tubes into Blanks

    Recommended CA/or other for glue tubes into blanks.

    Prefer something I can buy local (ie Bunnigs etc)

    Thanks

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  3. #2
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    I use to use 5 minute epoxy and would have a few ready at the time. I found that some would come apart if i applied too much heat. I am now using to West Systems epoxy and leaving it over night.

    If this is a rush job to get a pen made you can use medium CA the slight drawback comes from the CA drying too quickly and the tube is not set in fully.

  4. #3
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    Jul 2014
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    Yep agreed with the above. For me epoxy is the way to go. CA is handy and quicker but I was having blowouts on some of my CA ones, especially the pens that are quite thin and there isn't as much blank material on them once finished.

  5. #4
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    Willie Nelson in WA showed me this method:

    Ingredients: Polyurethane glue, thin glue brush, one large potato (variety suitable for frying) and a small piece of 240 grit.

    Method: Using the piece of 240 grit scuff up the outside of the pen tube sufficient to dull the shine. Cut a 1/4" thick slice out of the potato and push pen tubes into the slice as if you were trying to cut a wad of potato. Leave wad inside tube and wipe off the smear of potato juice from the outside of the tube.

    Apply thin coat poly to inside of the blank and outside of the tube using the glue brush. Insert the tube into the blank potato end first; twisting as it goes to ensure that all mating surfaces are covered in glue. The potato plug prevents excess glue from entering the tube. Place blank aside until poly has cured.

    While waiting for the glue to cure cut the rest of the potato into strips approximately 1/2" by 1/2". Heat up some rendered animal fat (pure beef dripping for preference) to 200C and gently lower the strips into the hot fat. After a few minutes the strips will have turned a pale yellow colour, remove them and allow to rest for a couple more minute before plunging back into the fat. Once they have turned a rich golden colour remove them and allow excess fat to drain off. Cover liberally in fine crystalised sodium chloride (and dilute liquid acetic acid if you're a Pom) before nibbling delicately with pinky extended.

    This method will also work with epoxy resins.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  6. #5
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    Mmm, acetic acid.

    I like the potato trick. Might even try it on the pens

  7. #6
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    Nov 2006
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    I 'm not too keen on the potato, I use a small tub of Play Dough from the cheap shop instead - not as wet and messy as a potato nor do I fry it.

  8. #7
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    Mar 2009
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    Sale - Gippsland
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    Default

    i use gorilla glue without all the extra bits
    No Result Without Effort
    Mecha Blanks now on Facebook - Miks Blanks
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  9. #8
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    Never used a spud to plug, but might give it a go. I used to use CA for everything but as noted above I too had blow out's galore, especially on the fountain pens working with acrylics. On wood I was advised not to use CA, but 5min epoxy. so now I use epoxy on all blanks, roughing up the tube first then wiping clean with Metho.
    I was given the following instructions which work a treat - put epoxy on the outside of the tube, covering about 3/4 of the tube, leaving 1/4 to hold, then push and twist at same time inside the blank, then withdraw the tube, rotate blank and do the same to the reverse end and then push all he way in, this coats the entire tube. now I get very little epoxy on 1) the inside of the tube, and 2) on my fingers. then just wipe off the excess. you could always fork out for a pen insertion tool, I did but very rarely use it. I also wait til next day to turn giving plenty of cure time.

  10. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fumbler View Post
    Never used a spud to plug, but might give it a go. I used to use CA for everything but as noted above I too had blow out's galore, especially on the fountain pens working with acrylics. On wood I was advised not to use CA, but 5min epoxy. so now I use epoxy on all blanks, roughing up the tube first then wiping clean with Metho.
    I was given the following instructions which work a treat - put epoxy on the outside of the tube, covering about 3/4 of the tube, leaving 1/4 to hold, then push and twist at same time inside the blank, then withdraw the tube, rotate blank and do the same to the reverse end and then push all he way in, this coats the entire tube. now I get very little epoxy on 1) the inside of the tube, and 2) on my fingers. then just wipe off the excess. you could always fork out for a pen insertion tool, I did but very rarely use it. I also wait til next day to turn giving plenty of cure time.
    This is how I went: using epoxy, and applying using this method. First time pen turner, so will let all know how it went. Thanks for advise all.

  11. #10
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    I use epoxy or polurethane

    DO NOT USE spuds, especially on high end pen kits. The acid in the potato will corrode the tubes and stuff up the pen sometime down the track unless you wash the tube out thoroughly (inside and out).

    Plastersene or Playdo work, but the best IMHO is dental wax sheet (also known as modelling wax) e.g. Investo Modelling Baseplate Bite Wax 500g Dental | eBay. One sheets lasts a while, a pack lasts ages
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  12. #11
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    Never heard of using wax sheeting before; seems to be the best technical solution. Found them on Aliexpress for about $25/pack shipped but you'll be waiting 3-4 weeks for delivery *click*

    Probably best not to fry up whatever's left though...
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  13. #12
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    Default

    You just push the tube into the wax, then give the outside of the tube a quick wipe with acetone or metho to avoid any debonding of glue issues

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    ..Probably best not to fry up whatever's left though...
    Actually Gawdelpus used to, to save every last $
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  14. #13
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    Sep 2010
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    [QUOTE=dai sensei;2011414]I use epoxy or polurethane

    DO NOT USE spuds, especially on high end pen kits. The acid in the potato will corrode the tubes and stuff up the pen sometime down the track unless you wash the tube out thoroughly (inside and out).

    Plastersene or Playdo work, but the best IMHO is dental wax sheet (also known as modelling wax) e.g. [URL="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Investo

    Had some blu tac laying round used that and worked a treat.Important to ensure no reside on tube (wipe with metho)

  15. #14
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    When I first started, I used the CA...but found the working time was not enough and had lots of problems with the getting the tube in the blank on time.

    With time comes experience...I now use the 5 min Epoxy in the syringe style from Bunnings. It allows me to mix up small amounts easily with minimal wastage and give me a lot better working time. Just gotta make sure you work the epoxy between the tube & blank properly. Years later...none have come unstuck...

    Make sure you have a scuffed surface on your tube too...

  16. #15
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    Default

    There sure is a lot of debate over something I didn't think was a problem.

    My tubes are scuffed heavily with a bit of 80 grit and the insides of the blank gets a squirt of medium CA which is evened out with a cotton bud. The tube gets a wipe with what's left over on the bud. It's inserted via winding, end cleaned up with another bud end soaked in Acetone then a quick spritz with accelerator to stop it moving while it dries.

    It is left to dry an hour or so, max.

    Occasionally the insides are cleaned again with Acetone.

    Many here will have vastly more creative experience, but I'd say I've made 200 pens overall with kits from Timberbits.

    Edit: found a video I watched ages ago from Timberbits on the process:

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