Thread: Glues

End grain to end grain is a challenge,lets hope someone knows how to do it i'd like to know

I always use Titebond 2 glue for pretty much all my woodworking. What I do with end-grain to end-grain is, put some on BOTH ends, leave to soak into the wood for a minute, then apply again to BOTH ends, place together and clamp lengthways. The problem with gluing end grain is that the timber sucks in the glue before it has a chance to set.

I use Sika poly glue available from Bunnings. I have had only one blank come apart with that, the rest stayed together perfectly. The only thing with Sika is that you have to clamp the pieces together for 24 hours to allow it to set and to stop distortion as Sika expands as it dries. Wrap the final product in Gladwrap before you clamp it to stop the glue sealing to the clamp. Just check the type of Sika you buy and make sure it is for wood, metal, ceramic type. It goes on a yellowy colour but dries clear.

Greg

I use Weldbond which is a white PVA glue and is strong as all Hell never had anything come apart with that stuff . I have also so used CA and epoxy before and have had on problems with them are you clamping them together I know it smote like a silly question Ian

Another glue I was just reminded of is Bondcrete. It is used for strengthing concrete and for waterproofing but it is excellent as a woodglue. Its benefit is that it doesn't break down over years like PVA and gives a stronger bond. Every hardware store should have it.

10% bondcrete in water based paint makes it last better as well

I try to avoid end grain to end grain glue ups but if I have to I use Titebond III

Originally Posted by munruben

I try to avoid end grain to end grain glue ups but if I have to I use Titebond III

If you are doing any kind of segmenting work you will have endgrain to endgrain situations all the time. I will give Titebond a try. Thanks all.

Ebony is also sometimes oily, so wipe with spirit before you glue too