Thread: Grrrr - CA glue - how do I use it?

Todd, did you rough up the outside of the brass tube before you applied the CA?

Also, what speed did you use on the trimming tool? too fast will create heat which will re-activate the CA and the tubes will let go and come out.

Kev

Hi Kev,

Trimming Tool was in a cordless drill at drill speed. Will that cause the problem?

Todd

Hi Todd,

Probably a little careless with the glue to start with.
Avoid getting any inside the tube as it is hard to get
out with the pen mill.
What grade of glue are you using ... thin or thick?

Allan

Hi

Yellow CA is the glue type.

Todd

todd, One thing a friend of mine showed me was to push the end of the brass tube into a potato and give it a twist (both ends). This creates a plug to stop the glue going inside it. Its easy to remove afterwards. Same as the others said as well, sandpaper the outside of the tube to get it clean before putting the glue on.

Hi,

I did everything bar the potato plug - will have to try that - after i shoot some spud pellets

Todd

Todd

I only use Sika poly glue (from Bunnings) to seal the tubes into the blanks. It is slow as it takes 24 hours to harden but when it sets a prime mover won't get it out. Another benefit is that your tube doesn't get stuck half way into the blank if the CA goes off. Only requirement is that when you use Sika, you have to wrap the blank in glad wrap and clamp it at both ends so the glue doesn't push the tube out as it sets. Sika fills in all the gaps between the tube and blank and remains elastic to give you a better finish. Many don't agree with me or like it but give it a try.

Hey Todd I also use a poly glue called Tarzan's grip (from Bunnings) for my wood ones and epoxy for the acrylic's and PR's never had a problem with either of them. I have never used CA for gluing in tube as it can go of quick and that could be a bad thing if your tube doesnt go all the way in lol I would change glue and try something else or just leave them a bit longer before turning I leave most of mine over night before I try to do anything with them Ian

Originally Posted by Nai84

Hey Todd I also use a poly glue called Tarzan's grip (from Bunnings) for my wood ones and epoxy for the acrylic's and PR's never had a problem with either of them. I have never used CA for gluing in tube as it can go of quick and that could be a bad thing if your tube doesnt go all the way in lol I would change glue and try something else or just leave them a bit longer before turning I leave most of mine over night before I try to do anything with them Ian

Geez Ian
I used to use Tarzan's Grip when I was a kid of 10 for my plactic model planes. It's been around for a hell of a long time. I had never thought of that for gluing tubes. Suppose it would work, but Sika is my favourite now.

Greg

I use dental wax to seal the end of the tube ,its about 1.5 mm thick and comes in sheets ,use sandpaper to roughen the tubes as there can be residue from the manufacturing of the brass ,Ca is not really a great gap filler ,so if you have a bit too much clearance the glueup will be patchy ,and give no support to the wood when turning, hence so many blowouts with difficult burls and so on .I use either epoxy or CA ,and sometimes the poly glues which expand and fill any gaps, each has its merits ,but the important thing is a good glueup as a start to any pen .After the first few blanks I prepared shattered from using a drill powered trimmer I stopped doing them that way as you are usually on end grain and it splits very easily. The principles of pen making are simple ,turning that into a practical outcome takes practice Cheers ~ John

I normally use medium CA to glue the tubes in if the clearance between the tube and blank is fairly small. If the gap is a bit larger I use 5 minute Araldite. When using CA I smear a bit inside the blank, and cover the tube with a good coating (after roughing up the tube with 120 grit sandpaper). I only plug the ends of the tube when I use Araldite as it is very hard to get out once dried. The small amount of CA I get inside the tubes is fairly easily removed with a bit of scaping with a small sharp knife, and then I run a gun cleaning brush through it a few times with the cordless drill. I use the brass bristle ones and a tight fitting one. For the Slimlines and other 7mm tubes, I use the .22 calibre rifle brush.
I still use the trimmer in a cordless drill on a slow speed as there is no need for high RPM's, and just take it gently. I only leave my blanks about an hour or so in warmer weather before I start turning them. I have never had one let go yet. I don't turn very aggressively.
Good luck with your next one.

Hey Todd,

I only use CA for Finishing and stabilizing now,( had way too many Blanks fail after CA gluing the tubes in ) I now only use high strength Araldite (Epoxy) to do my tubes now, whether they are timber or acrylic.(just gotta be patient 24hr dry time),

Good Luck and keep 'em coming.

HazzaB

I also only use araldite and have absolutely no problems with the tube coming out of the blank. As for plugging I haven't had any issues with that either since taking someone off of here's advice and using playdough.

Like Ian, I use Tarzan's grip, never had an issue since. I plug the holes with some nylon I had hanging around, turne then nylon to the ID of the tube and don't push it in all the way. Saying that potatoes and play dough sound like the way to go.