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28th January 2013, 08:52 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Help needed - damaged Baron pen on assembly
I created this Timberbits Baron rollerball pen today from an Australian made poly resin blank, and damaged the end cap when assembling the pen. I struggled to insert it into the pen, and think I may have compressed the metal a bit while inserting it. When I tried to screw in the end cap, I cracked the thread.
I have not used any adhesives when assembling the pen, but I have not ever disassembled a pen before, so don't know what to do.
I invested too much effort into this pen to just simply throw it out yet - I took my time very slowly to turn this pen so that it wouldn't get chattering or damaged. So it would be a shame to have to throw it out just for an end cap if it can be fixed.
Does anyone here have the skills to remove the end cap? I am happy to post the pen to you and pay for return postage if anyone is willing to give it a go.
Simon.
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28th January 2013 08:52 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th January 2013, 09:02 PM #2
Simon,
I was in the very same boat when I started making pens and thanks to a few of the guys on here I took their advice and bought a set of punches from Bunnings tool section. They were not frightfully expensive and have been used on many occasions. All you have to do is select the nearest size punch to the internal diameter of the brass tube you are removing the parts from and tap the other end of the punch with a hammer. In doing so you will gently ease the part from the tube.
Cheers
Tony.
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28th January 2013, 09:10 PM #3
Right on Tony , a set of transfer punches is a great (and sometimes) necessary tool of the trade ,they are graduated up in either 64ths of an inch or or half mm up to about 13 mm or 1/2 inch.
Cheers ~ JohnG'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
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28th January 2013, 09:29 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for the tip. I can understand how that would work for a kit like the sierra or slimline, where one end of the blank is just bare timber.
the problem here is how would you get the transfer punch up the tube? On the other end there is the nib assembly inserted into the tube.
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28th January 2013, 09:49 PM #5
Simon,
Its never easy and sometimes you have to improvise, unscrew the nib end of the pen and select the largest diameter transfer punch that will fit through the nib end fitting. Slide the punch inside the tube until it touches the fitting you wish to tap out. At this point you may have to tap gently and work the punch around the fitting so that when you are tapping it out that you are doing so evenly. If you do not do it evenly or gently you can twist the part in the tube and split the blank (Not Good) and or you could damage the edge of the fitting you are trying to remove. In this case your fitting is damaged any way so pay more attention to not splitting the blank.
I hope I have explained that so it makes sense It has always worked for me in the past
Cheers
Tony
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28th January 2013, 09:53 PM #6
Undo the nib section and then put the size punch down through there to tap out the other end the best you can. It won't be easy but just keep at it and it will all be ok. A thought for later when I put all my parts in I use a small amout of vaso inside the tube I tell everyone it help the parts go in alot easier but the reason is that it makes them a hell of a lot easier to get out when I stuff upbut hey it works
Cheers ian
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28th January 2013, 09:55 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks. I understand what you mean. Will keep this one on the back burner and go to burnings on the weekend. Thanks for the advice. Simon
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28th January 2013, 10:00 PM #8
Bass
Also look at McJing tools on line. I bought a comprehensive set from them at a fairly cheap price - not that I have ever had to use them, mind you
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2nd February 2013, 02:42 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks everyone. I visited McJing this morning. What a brilliant shop! A hidden jem for all kinds of miniature brass screws, hinges, and other hard-to-find woodworking things.
I purchased a set of punches, and now my pen is all good!! Photos attached to say thanks
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2nd February 2013, 02:57 PM #10
Simon, I have cracked many a one of those, both from timberbits, and from a local vendor here in the states. I saw Ian uses a lubricant, but I have also taken some sand paper to the black enamel under the threads where they slip fit in. Just a little scuffing to expose the brass underneath will make them slide in nice and tight but not too tight! If you get too excited you can epoxy them in there, trust me it doesnt take much to make them too small! Only happens once though DAMHIKT! I also use the lathe to assemble this type of kit. I made little taper blocks out of acrylic or macassar ebony, anything hard for the head and tail stock. You can get your couplers in just enough to hold, and then turn your tailstock to really allow for even pressure and just the right pressure. Havent had any issues this way! Just a thought! Lovely Pen by the way, def. worth the trouble to fix! And those punches im sure will come in handy for a lifetime!
Justin M. Baker
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2nd February 2013, 03:20 PM #11
definately worth fixing it has come up well also interested in how much the punch set cost you if thats ok because I could certainly do with some.
Cheers Ian
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2nd February 2013, 08:02 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Ian it was $35 for the set. Came with 1-13mm sizes, in 0.5mm increments.
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3rd February 2013, 12:51 AM #13
Good save !! The pen was worth it !! it looks great.
Cheers
Tony.
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3rd February 2013, 05:35 PM #14
Great save there, well worth the effort.
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