This is my idea for a wipe on polyurethane finish (based on les elm's tutorial)

**44Ronin** · 18th May 2009, 03:59 PM

I am going to attempt this finish method....most of the sanding done by hand.....because sanding cross grain is brutal

120 Grit > To take out tooling marks, tear etc etc
180-600 grit hand applied along grain
Tack cloth & Mineral Spirits/Acetone wipe

Apply sanding sealer
Let film cure
600 grit light sand off nap

(If wood is light I guess I will add danish oil or a pure tung oil to the process to darken it slightly)

Tack cloth wipe
800-1200 grit hand applied along grain
1500 - 12000 hand applied along grain
Wipe with tack cloth

----------------------------------------------
Coat of minwax wipe on polyurethane
Let harden/film cure
1500 or 1800 micromesh lightly hand applied along grain
Tack cloth wipe

(X 8 or whatever required )

----------------------------------------------

Let the poly cure

Hand wet sand micromesh from 6000-12000 grit
Tack cloth wipe
Put blank on the lathe
Apply 2 coats of brasso
Buff off with lamb's wool

**madcraft** · 19th May 2009, 09:58 AM

Good Tut Ronin Do you have any pics of finished product?

**44Ronin** · 19th May 2009, 01:45 PM

Originally Posted by madcraft

Good Tut Ronin Do you have any pics of finished product?

I will soon

**Skew ChiDAMN!!** · 19th May 2009, 02:04 PM

A case of "Hurry up and dry?"

**44Ronin** · 19th May 2009, 02:10 PM

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

A case of "Hurry up and dry?"

No, a case of attend your tutorials or fail the unit of study. I'm also on the hunt for some acrylic lacquer, it's hard to find

**munruben** · 19th May 2009, 04:55 PM

Sounds good. look forward to seeing those pics

**aak** · 19th May 2009, 06:05 PM

Originally Posted by munruben

Sounds good. look forward to seeing those pics

Hi,

For what it is worth, in my experience, a finish that is too smooth is not a good base for the next layer of finish to bond to. Based on the recipe by Ronin, I believe the layers may laminate away from the previous layers. If not right away, they will do in some point in the future.

Normally, a finish would be cleaned, rough sanded and the dust removed (tack/acteone/alcohol) first and only then would the new finish applied. It is also recommended to use the same type of finish.

While I apploud Ronin's intention for a very nice and smooth finish, I suspect the recipe will be a failure.

Regards
Andy

**funkychicken** · 19th May 2009, 07:17 PM

Originally Posted by 44Ronin

No, a case of attend your tutorials or fail the unit of study. I'm also on the hunt for some acrylic lacquer, it's hard to find

Mitre 10 has it. It's alot easier to use than WOP

**TEEJAY** · 19th May 2009, 07:20 PM

Originally Posted by aak

Hi,

For what it is worth, in my experience, a finish that is too smooth is not a good base for the next layer of finish to bond to. Based on the recipe by Ronin, I believe the layers may laminate away from the previous layers. If not right away, they will do in some point in the future.

Normally, a finish would be cleaned, rough sanded and the dust removed (tack/acteone/alcohol) first and only then would the new finish applied. It is also recommended to use the same type of finish.

While I apploud Ronin's intention for a very nice and smooth finish, I suspect the recipe will be a failure.

Regards
Andy

Andy,

1500 micromesh is pretty coarse.

I use 400 between coats but do not see a problem with 1500 - it still looks pretty scratchy.

**aak** · 19th May 2009, 08:03 PM

Originally Posted by TEEJAY

Andy,

1500 micromesh is pretty coarse.

I use 400 between coats but do not see a problem with 1500 - it still looks pretty scratchy.

Hi TEEJAY,

Before the first coat of minwax Ronin's recipe calls for a 12000 finish!!! That is way too smooth!

And yes 400 is much better! I agree!

Regards
Andy

**funkychicken** · 19th May 2009, 08:09 PM

Originally Posted by aak

Hi TEEJAY,

Before the first coat of minwax Ronin's recipe calls for a 12000 finish!!! That is way too smooth!

Not if you make quality pens

**aak** · 19th May 2009, 08:22 PM

Originally Posted by funkychicken

Not if you make quality pens

Hi Funkychicken,

My experience relates to musical instrument finishes rather than to pen finishes. Shouldn't be much of a difference though. Maybe my 40+_years of experience does not count for much, but my comments are actually based on personal experience regarding finishing/re-finishing. If the surface is too smooth the finish will not adhere well. If the surface is too coarse it will show all the scratch marks under the finish. There is a compromise. So, I will leave it at that. By all means sand to 12000 before and in between coats if that is your wish.

Regards
Andy

**44Ronin** · 19th May 2009, 11:49 PM

I bought the wipe on poly about 1 hour before I glanced at the dipping lacquer tutorial.

Bad bad bunnies doesn't stock acrylic lacquer.....so I will give the wipe on poly a fair go, and fully investigate it's use.

I guess if I change the sanding grits inbetween coats it should be fine..........or perhaps the wipe on poly is so thin that sanding between grits is not necessary...

**mag** · 20th May 2009, 12:19 AM

I have very little experience in the different finsihes, but I remember reading somewhere that Lacquer melts into the previous layer, unlike poly. Which is why you can keep layering with spray lacquer.

Can anyone tell me if this is right, or have I been misled by me feeble memory.

Mike

**44Ronin** · 20th May 2009, 12:39 AM

Originally Posted by mag

I have very little experience in the different finsihes, but I remember reading somewhere that Lacquer melts into the previous layer, unlike poly. Which is why you can keep layering with spray lacquer.

Can anyone tell me if this is right, or have I been misled by me feeble memory.

Mike

That is correct

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This is my idea for a wipe on polyurethane finish (based on les elm's tutorial)

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