Thread: I've hit the tru Stone again

Looks like a winner. Congratulations on mastering the Trustone. Had the same problems drilling the stuff until I started cutting my blanks long, not drilling the whole way through, and then trimming the end off the blank to reveal the through hole. Seems they didn't crack until the drill bit exited the material (at least, in my case).

TB good looking pen, I still dont quite know what it is apart from some sort of stone.
David

Originally Posted by dj_pnevans

TB good looking pen, I still dont quite know what it is apart from some sort of stone.
David

"TruStone is a beautiful material made from a combination of crushed semi-precious stones, combined with other natural pigments and materials which are then subjected to tremendous heat and pressure. This results in a material still "hard as a rock" but workable with a lathe. It has the look and the cool feel of stone, and is difficult to distinguish from the real stone. The results of a pen made with this material is one that has a nice heft to it, a brilliant sheen and texture and an interesting appearance."

source - http://www.go-authentic.com/pens/trustone-pens.html

I think that might answer you question.

Originally Posted by ciscokid

Looks like a winner. Congratulations on mastering the Trustone. Had the same problems drilling the stuff until I started cutting my blanks long, not drilling the whole way through, and then trimming the end off the blank to reveal the through hole. Seems they didn't crack until the drill bit exited the material (at least, in my case).

My experience is there is 2 things you must do for a successful drilling operation.

1. Sharpen your drill bit before you begin, no matter how sharp you think you drill bit is, sharpen it (took mine down to carbatec for a demonstration on the drill doctor. Thinking about buy one now even though the price is ridiculously expensive)

2. Only drill 3mm, lift the drill bit out of the blank, add a squirt of water into the hole then repeat the process. That means for a 60mm blank, it takes about 20 - 30 lifting of the drill bit.

3. After you drill your blank, sharpen your drill bit again to do the other blank.

And yes, cut your blanks about 5 - 10mm longer than the brass tube in case of tear when the drill bit exits the blank.

Thanks for that TB, what type of drill bit do you use?
David

Originally Posted by dj_pnevans

Thanks for that TB, what type of drill bit do you use?
David

I use the standard Sutton Tools HSS drill bits that you get at the big green store down the road. I don't use the brad point drill bits because there impossible to sharpen at home by myself.

Timberbits.

Yum!!!

Well done David, another great looking pen that green looks really good.

You and Al are spot on with what you say working the blank, especially this type.

I did my first yesterday see the post when I get the picture. Cracked the second half of the first blank even with all care sharp drill and lots of water.

Anyway I got the pen turned a Jr Gent FP and it looks great, I had to keep the grinder running as it took the edge off very fast. This stuff is much harder than the other Tru_stone I have turned it really needs a water lubricant even when turning, the polish is immediate.

Must stop rambling and take a picture

TB have you tried a masonry drill bit?
David

Originally Posted by dj_pnevans

TB have you tried a masonry drill bit?
David

A masonry drill in my experience is more about pounding the crap out of the masonry. That is why you have to put the drill on hammer mode for it to work. Experiment may prove me wrong, but I believe if I put a masonry drill bit in to do the drilling, it will surely lead to a blow out.

I think this stuff should be treated like my 3 month old daughter, with lots of love, patients and care. At the end of it all, end up with something/someone you can proudly show to all your friends.

Timberbits.

I have used them many times with out the hammer drill and works fine, but it is up to the individual.
David

Reading through all this ,I would think a properly ground masonry drill would be ideal. If you can drill with high speed steel, then a masonary drill should eat it .You would need to possibly take some off the side clearance of the carbide bit as they are not really accurate in normal usage, you would need to get the dia as close as possible to the flute diameter for guidance once you get in a bit,find the right cutting speed and pressure ,and keep it wet. I see that "simo" is onto this stuff as well hehe,maybe he can check it out (or you could send me a scrap too short for anything and I will try it ) could then check if it will turn with carbide as well hehe.