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25th July 2013, 10:42 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Kallenshaan acoustic guitar pen advice
Hi all. I am currently assembling a Kallenshaan acoustic guitar kit. I have got to the part about filling in the soundhole with epoxy. I did that, but the epoxy smooths out to a flat surface. Should have predicted that really. It doesn't conform to the curvature of the pen surface. WHat do people do with this? Do you just leave it flat, or is there a good way to get the epoxy to build up a bit to match the curve?
ThanksThe other day I described to my daughter how to find something in the garage by saying "It's right near my big saw". A few minutes later she came back to ask: "Do you mean the black one, the green one, or the blue one?".
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25th July 2013 10:42 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th July 2013, 12:03 AM #2
Hey Peter,
the last one I did, I built a little dam of play doh, and then over filled the hole and then turned down to size. I was talking to Ian (Nai) today and the next one I will be getting it all together, then Ian is going to cast the blank in clear resin and then I'll turn it down to finished size.
HazzaBLast edited by HazzaB; 26th July 2013 at 12:04 AM. Reason: Speeling
It's Hard to Kick Goals, When the Ba^$%##ds Keep moving the Goal Posts.
Check out my Website www.harrybutlerdesigns.com.au
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26th July 2013, 09:23 AM #3043TURNING
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Peter, the blanks are about 1-2mm oversize so filling the hole flush might not be a problem as once the blank has the extra material removed you could find it has also been turned round, when using epoxies there is always a small amount of shrinkage - So I add as much as I can to over come this. I rely on the thickness of the epoxy to form a small bubble so as to overfill any voids, then I sand flat (or in this case round )
also you can use a green scotch brite pad to scuff the epoxy surface and add another batch to the top (just make sure all the dust has been removed as you don't want white spots embeded into the next layer - If you are unsure of this method try it on some left over stuff that is stuck to the mixing tray.
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29th July 2013, 03:51 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks all. I did what salty suggested and added a second layer of epoxy. That hasn't filled it completely, but has raised the level enough that I think it won't matter when it's turned down to size. I realised afterwards too that it probably would have helped if I used 5 minute epoxy. I only had the full strength stuff. I think 5 minute would have meant I could have "teased" it to stay in place more as it set.
The other day I described to my daughter how to find something in the garage by saying "It's right near my big saw". A few minutes later she came back to ask: "Do you mean the black one, the green one, or the blue one?".
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29th July 2013, 04:02 PM #5043TURNING
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just a word or warning about 5min Epoxies (most of the fast set stuff isn't UV stabalised, and for that matter, some of the full strength suff will also turn yellow with age, not saying the one you have used fits into this box....but I have found from experience that unless it states "UV-stabalised" , I read the packet lable as....... "drys clear" (turns yellow with age)"
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15th August 2013, 12:50 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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And further to this, when I was turning it, the epoxy came out, in almost a complete plug. It had started to yellow though, so maybe that wasn't such a bad thing. I damaged the label sticker getting the rest out, so I have coloured the soundhole black, and printed out a new label which is superglued in. I am thinking now that I may use thick CA instead, because I have used CA for years as a finish, so I know it doesn't yellow. Thick CA should mould to the curves well enough I think.
The other day I described to my daughter how to find something in the garage by saying "It's right near my big saw". A few minutes later she came back to ask: "Do you mean the black one, the green one, or the blue one?".
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