Thread: Keeping the lathe attachments working

Hey Greg, INOX is the ants pants, & Aussie made !. I have been using it in my business for years now. I use WD40 as a basic cleaner & INOX to provide lasting lubrication & protection. I keep all of my machine parts in sealable plastic tubs, as here in the tropics, condensation in the wet season is a real killer. I use INOX on all cast iron surfaces, scrub in with steel wool and leave for a while, then wipe off, and apply a coat of U-Beaut's Traditional Wax to the surface.

Pariss

The steel wool is only on the bare metal I take it. Probably a silly question having seen photos of your equipment. Doesn't the wax build up a layer that will become sticky and retard the movement of the parts along the lathe. I used the word parts because I can't remember the name of each individual item

I will stick with Inox as suggested. Its not as hot or as steamy down here but pieces will still show the deadly rust if touched before putting them away. I am storing all the bits and pieces in a draw of a cupboard lined with plastic and sprayed with Inox. Unfortunately its a beautiful Silky Oak sideboard that SWMBO was going to dispose of in our recent move but which i dragged back off the footpath and claimed as my own. I also retrieved the mobile airconditioner and have put that in the shed. I will have to cut a hold in the back wall of the shed to allow for the air flow to the air conditioner if I do use it. But then again, the front doors are always open when I am in there. Trouble is space in my shed is at a premium. At the moment I am just using a portable fan to cool the shed.

Inox stays wet, so can attract dust, but would still be OK. I use Dry Glide, a teflon spray product that dries as a hard film, even protects from those nasty CA spills

[QUOTE=plantagenon;1477986]Pariss

The steel wool is only on the bare metal I take it. Probably a silly question having seen photos of your equipment. Doesn't the wax build up a layer that will become sticky and retard the movement of the parts along the lathe.

Hey Greg. Any wax will do, even Turtle wax Car wax. I think U-Beaut Traditional wax is better though. You wipe off the INOX after say 24hrs, then rub on the wax, leave for a while, then buff off with a soft cloth. It not only stops corrosion from condensation, but the surface is SUPER slick, and the timber just glides effortlessly across the surface. If you leave INOX or other oils on the surface in a semi wet condition, the timber you run across it will absorb the oil, and bugger up any finish you apply. Below is a clip of the general idea, although from USA the principals still apply.
Bandsaw Setup, Tuneup, Blade Recommendations, and Rust Prevention | The Wood Whisperer

Thank you all. I went to the shop and bought the teflon spray as suggested by Neil. The other process involving polish, while excellent, probably takes more time than I can afford. I did find an old thread on the forum through a Google search ( I think it was in the saw area of the forum) which suggests that teflon spray can build up and begin to stick and slow things down, but I think it was to do with bearings (only glanced at it).

Pariss - you put me to shame so I spent an hour this afternoon vacuuming the shed and tidying things up. Looks smick now but still pleasantly cramped.

Greg

Greg

Try this range of products Lanotec | products I have used them for 8 years, no rust on my tools and the Timber Seal Plus is great for sealing the ends of freshly cut timbers.

Ross