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Thread: Lidded pen problems
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30th October 2008, 09:10 PM #1Member
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Lidded pen problems
Hi all,
I got some Dayacom sedona's and executives the other week and had a go at them. First lidded pens so it was a bit different. What I did have some problems with is the lid going onto the threads correctly (especially with the sedona).
The trim ring basically can slide right up to the thread. If it is in this position the lid didn't actually have any thread to go on to. I kept testing the alignment as pressing the bits together and ended up gluing the trim ring in position so the cap could still go on.
It may have just been that kit, it may have been I had a couple of the of the FIL's 70% homebrew southern comfort or just I didn't read the instructions correctly. Have any of you had similar problems. Is the Berea kit identical to it.
Also I didn't like the "roughness" of the kit. Very gritty sounding threads. Weighting of the pen did seem a bit heavy on the rear as well. I am pretty biast but. Everything gets compared to the platinum/black titanium Sierra.
Liked the refill and the finish on the kit. Pretty good.
Cheers for any info.
BJWant to find a timber supplier in Brisbane. Check this link. http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=74808
My website. Moksha Writing Instruments.
http://users.tpg.com.au/bjtunnie//Moksha.html
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30th October 2008 09:10 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th October 2008, 10:21 PM #2
I have done a few of these from brett, but only in fountain pens .not had any problems like you are saying, mind on the fountain pen the cap is a multi start thread and its only about a half turn to fully engage the cap. but a smooth action so you may have just been unlucky. Only thing I can think of ,did you slide the delryn couplers onto the trim rings before you inserted into the lower barrels, nothing should be loose to move .
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31st October 2008, 06:38 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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I did one of their fountain pens - the only non-twist pen I've done so far too. I'll actualy be trying another on today, as while I didn;t have any problems with the thread, I had problems with everything else on my first one - chipped blank (was first burl too), coupler struck in lid etc etc. My lid actually seems heavier than the barrel, but I left the wood a bit thick.
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31st October 2008, 06:43 AM #4
Brendon,not sure that I follow you. Will have to go get one and have a look.
Terry
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31st October 2008, 07:39 AM #5Member
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Hey all,
They are not the Berea Hardwood kits from Brett. From a different supplier that has had a copy made by Dayacom. Compared the drawings for the assembly of the kit and they look exactly the same. Maybe just a very small difference in the kit. I don't know as I have never bought a Berea Sedona.
I was pretty careful to make sure it went together the right way. I do remember having to tap the coupling's out a bit so there was actually some thread on there for the lid.
BJWant to find a timber supplier in Brisbane. Check this link. http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=74808
My website. Moksha Writing Instruments.
http://users.tpg.com.au/bjtunnie//Moksha.html
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31st October 2008, 08:14 AM #6
Sorry I can't help I have never made a Sedona of any manufacture.
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31st October 2008, 08:49 AM #7Turned a Few
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BJ:
If you had to tap the trim ring coupler's out a bit so there was actually some thread on there for the cap threads, then you pressed the trim ring coupler threads thought the trim ring.
I have found that the trim ring couplers are a very tight fit into the tube ends.
The barrel tube ends must be reamed out a bit.
Once the first trim ring is inserted use a block of hardwood with a hole that will allow the coupler to pass through and rest on the first trim ring.
Then carefully press in the second trim ring coupler. This way the hardwood block won't allow the first trim ring coupler to get pressed into the threads.
Les
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31st October 2008, 11:14 AM #8
The trim ring is meant to slide up to thread, this is so that the lid will overlap.
When you say "Also I didn't like the "roughness" of the kit. Very gritty sounding threads."
Do the threads feel like they are binding or is it just the sound.
I hope this is able to help you, if you have anymore problems you can call me on 07 5525 7561 or just pm or email me at [email protected]
Best Regards
Rohan Pye
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31st October 2008, 08:48 PM #9Member
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Cheers Rohan
When the trim ring war right up to the thread the lid was just falling off, it couldn't grab any thread. It was probably something I did or a tiny imperfection in the lid. Doesn't matter now as she's all glued up and works fine.
The threads on the sedona were pretty good. The executive sounded horrible and felt gritty. Probably just that one.
I am just being picky. If I buy a cheap kit I can not expect it all to be the same as a $100 kit.
Also not having a shot at Dayacom kits or suppliers. I have a Dayacom click parker type pen that lives in my pants pocket that gets smashed around, dropped, kicked, wet and anything else I can throw at it and it works perfectly every time.
Every supplier has always been helpful as well.
Cheers guys
BJWant to find a timber supplier in Brisbane. Check this link. http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=74808
My website. Moksha Writing Instruments.
http://users.tpg.com.au/bjtunnie//Moksha.html
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31st October 2008, 10:22 PM #10
I think a picture would help. I've made sedonas and barons before without any trouble
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1st November 2008, 12:54 AM #11
BJ,
The two kits are completely different the only similarity is that they look the same, except for the ugly band on the non Berea one.
They have different size tubes and different bushes and please excuse me if I say you just can't compare the others to the Berea Hardwoods kits I guarantee you that you would never have that problem with them, the threads are smooth and positive and they won't bind up on you not to mention just how precise and easy the Berea kits go together.
Froggie
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1st November 2008, 08:12 PM #12
Question to Regulated,
When you were pressing the final component into the barrel, did you press them as a complete pen? or did you do the pen bit separate to the lid bit?
I found that if you press too hard as separate components, you actually loose a bit of the thread through the molding, therefore reducing the amount of thread that is available. Also if you press together as a whole pen, the plastic component within the lid slides back, again reducing the amount of thread that is available.
Another thing that could cause the gritty horrible sound is that when you are pressing the components onto the barrel, if you using a hammer or mallet, you could damage the thread very slightly that you can't identify with the eye. This has in my past experience caused the gritty feeling. Now I use a vice with radiata pine on both ends. Since then I have never again experienced the gritty feeling. I have found that the Dayacom thread are very well made, and it was me doing damage to it.
Timberbits
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2nd November 2008, 12:00 AM #13Member
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Hey cheers guys for the replys
Before I assembled the pen I was playing with it and noticed when putting it the lid on the trim cap would have to slide up the nib section to go on. I think it was just a one off defect with the kit. Will try another one soon. I've been too busy playing with some Berea El Grande kits at the moment. Also have to photograph all of the pens and get them on the website. Got 10-15 to do.
BJWant to find a timber supplier in Brisbane. Check this link. http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=74808
My website. Moksha Writing Instruments.
http://users.tpg.com.au/bjtunnie//Moksha.html
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