Micro Mesh Sanding Pads Degree Of Shine

**edblysard** · 29th December 2012, 03:32 PM

Micro Mesh Grit Size Conversion Chart
As you can see, once you get upward of the 6000 grit in micro mesh you reach the point where additional sanding is pretty moot.
You can achive the same if not better results with silicon carbide 2000 grit Wet N' Dry sandpaper, sold at any auto parts store that sells painting supplies.
Keep it wet while sanding, I use a spray bottle with plain distiled water and spray as I sand, this not only cools the finish preventing heat build up and melting,it also carries away the sanding debris, which can cause fine scratches.
Follow the 2000 grit with Hutts Ultra plastic polish and you end up with a glass like finish.
This was shown to me by the owner of Regal Plastics, a shop near home, they sell a lot of acrylic products, and they wet sand the cut edges starting at 600, then 800 then 1500 and finish with the 2000 and polish.
I watched them cut and polish a 3/4" piece of clear acrylic this way, when they finished, you could not tell which side of the block had been cut, and which side was the virgin or cast side, it was as clear as glass.

I take the regular 10 sheet pack, 11'X 8", and cut it into 1" strips, then half the strip length to 4.5" and keep a stack right on hand for all finishes, CA, poly, and the occasion when I do have to sand and polish lacquer.
Cyanoacrylate is basicly an acrylic resin that cures quickly...its liquid plastic for want of a easy term.
Once you master the application process, (which I suck at) then treat the finish as if it was acrylic plastic, which in essence, it is.
Take Neil up on his offer, from what I have seen, proper skilled application is 2/3 of the whole process.

**plantagenon** · 29th December 2012, 11:22 PM

Pariss - As an aside - does the final wax you mentioned stop fingerprint and sweat stains on a pen? I know you can't get that gloss protection of CA but the other might be interesting if the pen is protected from sweat and print marks.

BTW - keep an eye on your post this week

**Pariss** · 29th December 2012, 11:43 PM

Originally Posted by plantagenon

Pariss - As an aside - does the final wax you mentioned stop fingerprint and sweat stains on a pen? I know you can't get that gloss protection of CA but the other might be interesting if the pen is protected from sweat and print marks.

BTW - keep an eye on your post this week

Howdy Greg. I don't do a lot of pens without CA finish, but Neil from Ubeaut put me onto that natural look finish a couple of years ago. After you apply and burnish in the Shellawax ( or Shellawax Glow) I apply the Traditional wax with a fine soft cloth (old tee shirt pad) and gently burnish it into the finish, just enough to create some heat. It leaves a nice fine satin finish, and is fairly print resistant. Chers mate, hope you had a nice Chrissy and have a great new year as an official retire-eee

**sturina** · 30th December 2012, 07:24 PM

I have always thought it interesting how many coats of CA people use. For me it varies, usually about ten. But really if I have my lathe set at 500RPM, if I hold the glue on for one second thats 8.3 coats, do this 10 times I'm applying 83 coats. I guess that is plenty...and yes im bored today.

**Christos** · 31st December 2012, 03:31 PM

You have given me some ideas on what to try. I may just work out a system that works for me as I will be back in the shed in the new year. So will have some time to play around a little.

**Mobyturns** · 31st December 2012, 11:57 PM

Handy thread, I have been trying CA as a finish on pens and have found that for 7mm slimlines, which I don't want to spend a lot of time on, 4-6 coats of thick CA dry sanded to 400 - 600# and finished with UBeaut EEE gives a very acceptable finish. Just got to work on some other minor issues now.

**Christos** · 8th January 2013, 09:14 PM

Just a little bit of an update on what I have been doing.

I have managed to get thinner coats of CA applied to the pens which are drying with in a minute. I have mostly been consistent with the sanding and been able to get from a high gloss to an satin shine with the CA as a finish. I am tending to prefer a satin finish but then again I think most people would prefer a high gloss, but that's another topic.

I have also tried the Boiled Linseed Oil and CA combination as a finish, with two variation on application. I will keep this on the back of my mind as I am not sure on the long term results.

Some pens I have added Ubeaut Traditional Wax after the final sanding just to be different.

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