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Thread: pen blank chuck sizes
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7th August 2014, 08:38 PM #1Senior Member
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pen blank chuck sizes
Evening members, l'm stuck - l want to buy a 2-Jaw pen blank holding chuck such as the one on McJing's link: https://mcjing.com.au/categorybrowse...WPENBLANKCHUCK
Only trouble is l'm not sure the thread on my lathe is the same as what they have listed, l took the head stock face plate down to my local wood club to see what the hole and thread sizes were and they said it 30mm 6TPI, l checked McJing's but there are no 30mm 6tpi to 25mm 8 or 10 tpi reducers.
Then l thought would a 5" 4 jaw chuck with a MT2 shaft (for want of a better word) attached do the job? what size do l need in the MT2 shafts in regards to fitting a 124mm/5" 4 jaw chuck?
Now l'm not really clear on the above as my knowledge is very limited as l'm just learning but the 30mm 6tpi is to the best of my knowledge is correct.
So what are my best options? hope the above makes sense - l just wish all the sizes were the same - K.I.S.S would be a no brainer in this area.
Regards
Stevo
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7th August 2014, 09:20 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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You are mixing metric and imperial terms with your measurements. If you were to measure a one inch length of thread it probably has about 6 threads, but in engineering terms on a metric item, the pitch is measured in millimetres, hence the distance between the top of each thread is 3.5mm.
A 30mm x 3.5mm pitch headstock thread is a very common thread for a wood lathe.
Hope this makes sense.
Good luck with your woodturning,
Alan...
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7th August 2014, 09:46 PM #3
On my first lathe I was not sure what I had. The spindle was easy enough to determine and for the threads a used a gage(not sure what it is called). One of our wood turning members had a gage that I borrowed.
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7th August 2014, 09:56 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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another option
If you already have a scroll chuck, I found that these work a treat. I have a psi version of the mcJings one, and don't actually use it as the scroll chuck is a bit less fiddly.
CWS Store - Robert Sorby Patriot Pen Jaws | Carroll's Woodcraft Supplies
Problem solved with your thread issue, but does mean it takes longer to change from pens to bowls
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7th August 2014, 11:33 PM #5Skwair2rownd
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If you get pen jaws make sure they are compatible with your chuck!!
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8th August 2014, 12:26 PM #6Senior Member
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thanks
Thank you for all the replies, especially Uncle Al for setting me on the right path, funny how when ones learning something new the lingo can be a tad confusing (me mixing up Imp with metric) but thats all sorted l've ordered the McJing chuck and correct adapter and a few step drill bits along with a MT2 drill chuck.
Cheers again
Stevo
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8th August 2014, 10:43 PM #7
I'm not sure if I am reading this correctly or not. Were you considering fitting the 4 jaw chuck to a morse taper spindle and fitting it in your headstock shaft?
I am hoping not as it would be very dangerous because there is nothing to stop it coming out if there is no tailstock up against your workpiece.
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9th August 2014, 10:06 PM #8Senior Member
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yep
Treecycle you read right, knowing SFA about lathes etc l saw these smaller 50mm chuck's on ebay - NEW 50mm Small Lathe Chuck 3 JAW With MT2 Arbour FOR Metal Turning MILL Watch | eBay
So l thought get a bigger one (5") and use a drill chuck in my tail stock, so l could drill to my hearts content, but I got the pen blank chuck instead, worst thing is a mate has brought the above chuck so l had better tell him to be careful or replace it.
Thanks for the heads up
S
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10th August 2014, 10:16 PM #9
Just as an aside to the morse taper chuck ,if its designed for small lathes and mills it should have a tapped threaded section to screw a drawbar in and lock in place , can never fall out in that case . Even collet chucks should have the same facility for locking into the taper ,just as a safety measure , we had a member on here a while back who had a chuck come out of her drill press and gave her a nasty bang ,don't know the details but it certainly discouraged her considerably. With drills and such the pressure of the cut is normally enough to keep the taper locked in place ,considering that mechanically we rely on friction to keep a morse taper together, but a bit of dirt or a dent in the surfaces is enough to reduce that holding power . That said we all probably do many "unsafe things" and mostly survive hehe, cheers ~ John
G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
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