Thread: Pen Blanks - Sell sanded and Shiney?

I turn the occasional pen and would definitely prefer to see blanks with at least one face cleaned up; as an example that batch of five could be presented alongside an identical but uncleaned batch of the same timbers to show contrast? Just a thought anyway.

Ermmm, Blackwood X2, ringed gidgee & birdseye huon are my guesses but the last one has thrown me, unless it's camphor laurel? All are beautiful and I love the gidgee (if that's what it is)!

Hi Evan, The views of pen turners are more valuable than mine so I hope you don't mind my comments as someone who sells pens blanks occasionally. My views are primarily personal, those of a wood enthusiast, not a turner. BUT it focuses on what I think some or most woodworkers should try to demonstrate with what they turn or create. My views are biased by years of observation and association with wood (nothing unusual about that) and wood crafters. I did make small items for sale (not turned) many years ago so qualify for comment.

This focus is on 2 matters… identity and presentation ie finish preparation (for sale).

1) Wood identity should always be provided (eg most of those dark woods look like ebony not an inland acacia like gidgee). Wood is more than a pretty material to work on IMO.

Wood identity IS important (common name at least and botanical name and region or country of origin). Why? Because its a TRIBUTE to the source, the tree. Names are identities. Common names are like Nicknames and botanical names like full names. Providing these honours the source and educates the interested buyer. It helps adds interest, "tell a story"and "sell" about the finished product as well, especially if it is also associated with a feature eg unusually old, historic, unusual in some way.

2) Presentation: Finishing of blanks (sanding) DOES help display blanks at their best (and is something I should try and do more, ). You have done an excellent job of that. Uniform size (oversize) also help / adds versatility in use to what you sell.

I believe a finish should / could also be applied (at least to some) to show what they will finally look like … often VERY different (better, darker, showing more figure / detail etc.)

My views, take them or leave them.

Euge

Good question. I usually leave them rough sawn, only offer fully dry timber, but mist them with alcohol to show the grain and colour. I will watch with interest to see how you go.
Rgds,
Crocy.

interesting alcohol should be mentioned.

I was talking with a USA woodseller and he uses NAPHTHA on his guitar body blanks to sell them. They look incredible.

Would metho be an equivalent of that stuff?

ISO evaporates too fast.

Alcohol does evaporate too quickly in my opinion. Naphtha is a hydrocarbon bit like turps, so will stay a bit longer.
What I don't like is that sometimes the solvents can wash off / remove or bleed / mix the pigments of SOME woods eg rosewoods, orangebark etc to their visual detriment.

I have often seen woodies spit on dry wood to see how it will look when finished. You could do that for them

WoodPixel,

I would not care if sanded or not as long as the timber is identified.
I like to know what I am working with, if possible.
Remember that sanding is still only showing the outer edge - albeit that it gives a better idea of the blank.
Half the fun in pen turning is stopping the lathe to see what is showing up as material is removed.

seeya
DonP

Originally Posted by Euge

I have often seen woodies spit on dry wood to see how it will look when finished. You could do that for them

I'll grab some Naphtha from SydneySolvents.com.au

I'll do this as there are one billion blanks.

My poor glands would leave me a withered dried-out husk before getting half way through

Having at least one side sanded so that the turner will have an idea of what he/she's getting.
I know someone that sells blanks that are sanded all sides, he runs them through a drum sander, on a tray that holds X number across, and X number lengthwise.
I got my drum sander from him as he was trying to use it as a thicknesser!!!
Kryn

I have an open view on sanding and presentation of the pen or other turning blanks, determined particularly by pricing.

If I'm purchasing a bulk lot that is rough sawn and priced appropriately I'm not overly concerned if there are some duds, even as high as 10 to 20%. However if I'm purchasing some premium blanks at a premium price I certainly would expect to have a reliable & accurate wood identification, and at least a well presented blank so that any potential defects, or assets, are apparent, and a 95% certainty that I'm getting what I paid a premium price for.

Additional effort, hence work, in presenting pen blanks usually incurs additional cost. I much prefer to stick with reliable vendors, who honestly attempt to identify woods, and are upfront if they do find out that there has been a mistake made. In all my dealings with forumites I have never been deliberately misled and truly appreciate their honesty and offerings of blanks.

I'll need to brush up on my wood ID.

The sled idea for the thickness sander is fabulous.

I was thinking of using the belt sander and some sort of jig, individually, but this solves the problem nicely

Excellent advice all.

I might even give them a spray of nitro so they stay permanently pretty

(OAN, my son wants to make end-grain chopping blocks with them!!!!!!)

If you want max $s then yes identify, sand and finish blanks. If your selling in a hurry and just want them gone so money is in your pocket, no, rough sawn only. But then local blanks don't expect more than 50c to $1 each, imported stuff depends on species and finish etc