Thread: Pen Repairs anyone?

As you say quicker to make from scratch than repair , but it is repairable , the black nib end is actually brass with a black enamel finish ,should glue in with either medium CA or epoxy . You may need to dismantle the barrel parts to rework the finish ,have to get the threaded insert out first before you attempt the clip end . Have a look at a new one if you have one handy to see what sort of punch will go up and not damage the mechanism, may need a tube of some sort to press on the solid part of the clip fitting and knock it out . Depends on the finish of the barrel as to how much you refinish it ,may need to sand back to wood and do a slurry type fill ( sanding and thin CA to fill the small holes ) That would be my approach at least hehe, I have repaired peoples favorite slims for them , even though I never made them in the first place some just get attached to a favourite pen
cheers ~ John

Originally Posted by gawdelpus

As you say quicker to make from scratch than repair , but it is repairable ,

Thanks John ... a project for today or tomorrow depending on the amount of freezing rain/fog I have to deal with.

the black nib end is actually brass with a black enamel finish ,should glue in with either medium CA or epoxy.

I repaired the other two nibs with Red Loctite and so far they are holding. This one has a little slop in it so I was thinking of epoxy.

You may need to dismantle the barrel parts to rework the finish ,have to get the threaded insert out first before you attempt the clip end . Have a look at a new one if you have one handy to see what sort of punch will go up and not damage the mechanism, may need a tube of some sort to press on the solid part of the clip fitting and knock it out .

I use transfer punches and have something close in size ...

Depends on the finish of the barrel as to how much you refinish it ,may need to sand back to wood and do a slurry type fill ( sanding and thin CA to fill the small holes ) That would be my approach at least hehe, I have repaired peoples favorite slims for them , even though I never made them in the first place some just get attached to a favourite pen

It's going to take more than a slurry paste to fill so I'm thinking about using some of this pour-on epoxy ...

How could people be so rough on our works of art

If they were willing to go to a twist mechanism, then all you'd have to do would be save the timber and I think John has covered that well

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

How could people be so rough on our works of art

Well to him I think it nothing more than a 'daily use tool' ...

If they were willing to go to a twist mechanism, then all you'd have to do would be save the timber and I think John has covered that well

I tried to steer him into a twist but alas no ... click only.

I had a devil of a time getting this apart and finally when I had it in pieces I discovered he had used Red Loctite on it.

After cleaning the timber I found 4 major cracks in the timber. I'll have to ask him if he uses this pen as a ball peen hammer.

Sanded the wood and made a pile sawdust and then dribbled some thick CA on the sandpaper and made a slurry paste and filled all the cracks, divots and holes.

Have to go get the wife from work so this will have to be finished later.

I think I'm going to use a softer spring and some epoxy to put it back together with and hopefully this will hold it.

I was approached by another fellow today and he wants a click but a slim one.

Some people don't appreciate anything even when it has been handmade with utmost love and care.

Looks like you have a pen partly defective, partly damaged by owner. I guarantee all my pens and I would be abliged to fix the defect - and I would use epoxy. As for the teeth marks, or what ever caused the dints, it is up to you. If he is a good customer, or you want to spread the word of your good trading practices , I would fix it while I was are doing the other using a CA finish.

I would sand back so just under the bushing, then give it a good thick CA finish. This would fill any remaining divots and give a supperior finish. I have done this before and the client was so surpised he spread the word and I got another 3 sales . You should however politely explain to him to take better care of it next time

Originally Posted by dai sensei

Looks like you have a pen partly defective, partly damaged by owner.

Correct Neil ... the damage to the timber was done by him ... the pen parts separating is a manufacturing problem.

I guarantee all my pens and I would be abliged to fix the defect - and I would use epoxy.

The last click pen that separated I used 5 minute epoxy. Got a call today and the owner said the nib part is slipping again.

I took everything down and sanded to get a good crosshatch and then I glued the parts back together with RooClear.

This is an acrylic emulsion adhesive that bonds many different materials together and I use it for segments, color preservative on threads of my rods etc.

As for the teeth marks, or what ever caused the dints, it is up to you. If he is a good customer, or you want to spread the word of your good trading practices , I would fix it while I was are doing the other using a CA finish.

Good customer? I'd say so as he is my boss And he and his wife have brought me business so I have a smile on my face and will gladly fix this. Besides, I like a challenge.

I would sand back so just under the bushing, then give it a good thick CA finish. This would fill any remaining divots and give a supperior finish. I have done this before and the client was so surpised he spread the word and I got another 3 sales . You should however politely explain to him to take better care of it next time

I sanded it down and there were cracks all the way through to the brass. Filled the cracks with sawdust and thin CA and then made a slurry paste on the sand paper and filled them up.

I left a Long Click for him to use hopefully he'll see that it's a better pen and then only thing I said was I'd be counting the divots in the timber monday

Sanded from 120 - 600 grit and then burnished the wood with 0000 steel wool. 6 coats of Med CA and did the MM equivalent, Brasso and will assemble it tomorrow and hopefully it will look ok.

You could sand it down under the bush size then coat it with clear resin.
David

That ens piece coming off has happened several times to me, even in the putting together and testing, I usually just use Thick CA around it, making sure that as you put them together that CA doesn't squash out over the pen, put on just a small amount and be ready to wipe off excess if there is any. Amos

Originally Posted by dj_pnevans

You could sand it down under the bush size then coat it with clear resin.

Thanks David ... I was thinking about using some of the 'Pour-On' epoxy I use for my guide wraps on my fly rods but drying time was an issue ... I need to deliver it on Monday.

Originally Posted by Woodenink

That ens piece coming off has happened several times to me, even in the putting together and testing, I usually just use Thick CA around it, making sure that as you put them together that CA doesn't squash out over the pen, put on just a small amount and be ready to wipe off excess if there is any.

Amos, I pretty much did this on the couple of loose pieces except I didn't care if it splashed over and got thick in a couple of places. Used the skew to lightly shave it back down to the timber and then did my finish.

I'm biased but where the cracks were there are now dark lines that appear to blend in well with the rest of the timber.

One thing that has been bothering me is that the nib bushing was pulling out of the brass tube and the plastic part of the nib assembly separated.

I going to try a softer spring on the refill ... not sure that is a problem but something caused the pieces to separate and he does use his pen many hours a day.

rhossack one thing I have noticed with this style of pen is that the spring can actually jam the refill in the nib section, usually they have a thick end and a slightly thinner end on the spring , the bigger end of the spring must be be towards the hole in the nib that the refill goes into, I always stress this to my customers when showing them how to change the refills. In other words slide the small end of the spring onto the refill first and then insert into the pen . I also check that the refill moves freely in and out of the nib section before assembly , And tell your Boss he has been reported to the "IPAF" ( International PEN ABUSE Foundation ) LOL. cheers ~ John

Originally Posted by gawdelpus

rhossack one thing I have noticed with this style of pen is that the spring can actually jam the refill in the nib section, usually they have a thick end and a slightly thinner end on the spring , the bigger end of the spring must be be towards the hole in the nib that the refill goes into, I always stress this to my customers when showing them how to change the refills. In other words slide the small end of the spring onto the refill first and then insert into the pen . I also check that the refill moves freely in and out of the nib section before assembly , And tell your Boss he has been reported to the "IPAF" ( International PEN ABUSE Foundation ) LOL.

Thanks John ... I wasn't aware of the spring.

Well the pen is as fixed as I'm going to do it ...

Six coats of Med CA.