Thread: Pine blank splintering

Try stabilising it with CA (superglue) when you get to the stage that it starts to splinter

thanks! On my way back to the shop to give it a shot.

Maybe tools need to be sharper.

Another cause springs to mind...

...because the last 1/4" sees the diameter of the blank drop almost by half, the circumference is also becoming a much, much tighter curve. So you're getting far less bevel support.

You haven't said what tools you're using, a good sharp skew is probably the most used for the final cuts.

However, because the skew is flat it not only cuts on the "point of tangency" (ie.at the part where the bevel is supporting) but also along a bit of the edge before & after where the bevel rubs. At the trailing edge, where the wood is moving away from the tool and the bevel starts to lift off the blank so it can no longer hold the grain place, if the grain is "weak" then cutting edge can tear the grain out.

(I hope I've explained that clearly? Much easier to show in real life or with diagrams, but I don't have the time to start doodling... )

One solution in this case is to use a small detail (or even a bowl!) gouge, where the trailing wing lifts off the timber much more rapidly. This will still create tearout (the problem of weak grain still exists) but to a much lesser degree and it's usually easily sanded out.

DJ's suggestion of coating with CA should also work well in conjunction...

Another trick some are using is a 'Wood hardner" by Minwax Co. Probably get it at your local hardware store. Cut your blanks to size & drill the hole. You might do a couple at a time. Pour the Minwax in a container & drop the blanks in & let them soak til they are completely submerged or find a way to weight them down. Leave for a couple of days or remove the weight & see if they sink to the bottom. When this happens, take them out & wipe excess off & let air dry. This will help hold the grain while turning. As said CA will work. Make sure it's the thin stuff & let it soak in. Turn to the point where it just starts splintering then start soaking. Have fun,

as a last resort there's always the 60 grit gouge

I picked up some tubes of 30 minute epoxy at the dollar store and what I do is mix it with DNA until it's the consistency of watery milk and paint the stuff on the blanks.

It will drink up a lot of that mixture and turns nicely. With nothing on the wood it splinters and tears.

Here's a pic of Blue Pine that I turned and the wood before painting it with epoxy.

That is a great idea from Liberty Lake!

Terry

Originally Posted by marter1229

That is a great idea from Liberty Lake!

You are welcome Terry ... it actually works pretty well. I see you're in the next state over from me.