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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    80

    Default Playing with poly for finishing

    I get very mixed results with CA. Most of the time the finish looks great but I always screw up the ends, even with delrin bushings. I'm just applying too much I guess. Often it "looks" fine after I've sanded the ends, but then pressing the parts in cracks it. I know its an artform that takes awhile to learn, I guess I'm just impatient.

    Anyway, as a result, I'm looking at other finishing techniques, and currently playing with Les Elm's polyurathane finishing technique. I'm not sure if Les is still using the hand applied or has moved onto the dipping method nowaways though. I went with the hand applied. A few differences in mine - I don't have the corian inserts, I'm using a different brand (Feast Watson) poly which has a longer drying time and its a wipe on poly so not as thick because thats what I have on hand to test!

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    I'm happy enough with the results to try again - I think I should have added a couple of extra layers AND waited a little bit longer to buff it, but it has a very smooth feel. I'll probably go out and get some of the faster drying poly now that I know its at least viable for me. It isn't quiet as high gloss as CA, but it feels a bit "warmer" than CA. I think the biggest upsides to this method is no yuck fumes attempting to burn my eyes out, and no frustration. Yes it took much longer but in this learning phase of my turning having to redo every pen because I've messed up the finish again is killing enthusiasm.

    Other than Les, are any of you guys and gals using poly as an alternative to CA?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Trinity Beach, Qld.
    Age
    76
    Posts
    5,313

    Default

    You are not the only one experiencing difficulties with CA and especially on the ends, and I also use Delrin bushes etc. I do find that some woods allow CA to lift easily, others are not to bad. I think this is where experience helps-experience means many botched jobs!! ahhhh!!! Amos
    Good, better, best, never let it rest;
    Til your good is better, and your
    better, best.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    67
    Posts
    2,061

    Default

    I have used the MinWax Poly Wipe On. I applied 6 coats to build it up and get a better shine. It takes a lot longer to dry than CA so patience is a must. I built a small airing box (bottom and 4 corner posts in timber and the rest covered in flyscreen. A few screws through the bottom of the timber and I just pop my barrels on them upright to allow to dry dust free. I don't dip them.

    I have also used Nitrocellulose as a dipping method but the fumes from it are real headache material if you don't wear a proper mask with carbon filters. The barrels need to have bushes at each end and then a bolt and nut through the tube. The bushes allow the excess to flow off and not pool at the bottom of the barrel. They also need to be hung up, again in an airing box. It is the same stuff older fishing rods are covered in and is strong and flexible when dry. It brings up a beautiful shine without the need to polish.

    CA is not all that difficult - just practice. I use Aldi Samson brand paper towel which I have found to be the best and probably the cheapest. It will absorb excess CA nicely. CA will stick to delrin bushes so use a craft knife to score around the ends of the barrels before snapping them off the delrin. I square the ends and remove any excess CA on a tool I made for my wood lathe. I will see if I can find a photo and attach it here. Also, bear in mind that some CA can get inside the tube and that could be causing your CA to crack when assembling. Run a craft knife inside edge of the tube to remove any hardened CA. Finally, you should use a deburring tool on each end of the tube. This will make assembly easier and prevent cracking. You can getthem on eBay for around $10 with 10 blades.

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