Thread: quick and easy finish please ?

U-beaut's products easiest

EEE and Glow
or #### hot wax stick

As already mentioned by others u-beaut EEE then Glow on most of the slimline / streamlines that I do. I often put a coat of Hut wax over the top for a final protective coat.

cheers
WH

One coat of CA to seal the wood then EEE and Glow.

Originally Posted by Dorno

question for you all. I am on a making streamline pens run at the moment to boost stock for markets later in the year but i do not want to take all the time to do CA on them so what can you suggest i use ? i have no other finish at the moment as i have always used CA but hav no problem getting what will do the job. I have a few people ask for natural type of feel but I also want something that lasts. I don't want them back in a week or two with comments likee it's not shinny anymore.
Feel free to give me any idea's that you may have as I am sure there are alot of you out there who make many a slimeline that has a finish that lasts ?

thanks for your help Ian

This is quick and easy and do a whole bunch at one time.
Works great for me!

Les

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f207/l...method-151717/

5 or 6 coats of thin CA takes maybe a minute, wow just do it and you've got a hardy shiny finish. My 2 cents worth mate.

nothing good ever came easy....

Just suck it up princess <VTIC>

Originally Posted by salty72

nothing good ever came easy....

Just suck it up princess <VTIC>

i don't mind really doing the CA finish but have had customers asking for pens that don't feel plastic i must be doing too good a job of my CA finish
i am just after something else that will do the job. next question is can you buy ubeaut products in shops and if so who has it ?

Cheers Ian

Ps thanks for your kind comments boofhead

Ian

Minwax and Nitro both look like a CA finish. A hard finish that is protected from water, sweat and will last and look natural = pure Tung Oil. I have just finished 6 of them. It involves little work painting the Tung Oil on and wiping it off 20 minutes later. However, you need 4 coats over 4 days and then let them dry for 14 days, which is ok if you are producing multiple numbers. You can get the Tung Oil that has driers in it but it is not the same. Liberon is the only company I know of that produces pure Tung Oil.

I've been using a copy of the beale system that I got from McJings comes with everything you need (check there web site its on this forum somewhere) its a three step buffing system and I love the natural feel that I get using this finish. I used it to finish my workshop pencil a couple of months ago and its handled it with ease, looks the same as it did when finished and unlike CA it can be knocked about a bit without major damage. I have also been trying Les's dipping method and I now prefer that to CA although like CA it does have a plastic like finish.

I just bought a finish called "Pens Plus" from Doctor's Woodshop. I realize that it is probably cost prohibited due to shipping. But it's very fast & easy.

Here are a few pens with the finish, and 1 on the bottom with CA. The pens are some of my Pens For The Troops. The 2 with the Pens Plus finish are a bit shinier than they appear.

BTW, I don't know what the wood on the bottom is. Anyone have an idea?

CA's main advantages are that it's durable right from the get-go and doesn't need any maintenance. The downsides are it feels like plastic and the fumes can create health problems. (I don't do CA finishes anymore... because I can't. Developed an allergy to the stuff, which is a bugger, 'cos the majority of pen buyers are quite happy to settle for CA finishes and it is quick'n'easy. )

Miniwax Wipe-on Poly is a fairly quick'n'painless application. I still think it plasticky, not quite so much as CA, but this is just my own personal opinion. Not quite as durable as CA, but still a long-term finish that needs minimal maintenance.

I like U-Beauts Shellawax, but many people complain that it wears off too quickly; in most cases this is either 'cos it wasn't applied with enough frictional heat (it's gotta be finger searing! ) or because the Shellawax hasn't had time to cure fully, as the pen sees handling almost as soon as it comes off the lathe. Far better if you take the pen off the lathe with linen gloves, place it somewhere nice & secure and forget about it for a fortnight. It's still not as durable as CA but will last much longer and - if the pen is regularly handled - will give the timber time to gradually acquire a lovely patina (ie. absorb oils from the hand) rather than "almost all at once."

...obviously, not as durable as CA but many people like the feel of it better.

My personal favourite is Danish Oil - a true tung-oil based one without PolyU - for the same reasons as Shellawax. 'Cept this finish needs the pens to be stored for months to fully gas off. (Depending on the weather... I'm used to Vic.)

I'll sometimes buff a pen with carnauba wax (or a wax with low bees-wax content) to make it glow; but any wax is a temporary thing that's going to wear off within the first real writing session. It's best only applied to pens that are going to be 'treasured mementos.' eg. wedding pens, which are used once then boxed away by the happy couple and only brought out to polish & reminisce.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

It's best only applied to pens that are going to be 'treasured mementos.' eg. wedding pens, which are used once then boxed away by the happy couple and only brought out to polish & reminisce.

......and to sign the divorce papers with.


Peter.


Sorry, couldn't resist the comment.

Oh. There's one other "quick'n'easy" finish I have used...

Rustin's Plastic Finish.

It's pretty much as durable as CA & feels about the same, it also only requires one coat to obtain the same thickness as several CA coats, but it's a tad expensive in comparison. A two-part resin of about the consistency of water, it's applied like Miniwax.

Between the cost & the extra effort involved in "cleaning up" the mixing bowl/tray I stopped using it for pens, preferring to save it for other jobs. (Mainly sealing the inside of goblets.)

But it's still an option I'll consider if I ever start mass producing pens again.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

......and to sign the divorce papers with.

Nar... by then they don't mind if it's looking ratty. After all, the shine has worn off everything else...