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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
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    Kendenup, WA.
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    60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Hilly View Post
    Mature One, I see EEE Ultra shine is available from Timberbits as a mail-order item but Shellwax Creme is classified as Dangerous Goods and is only available as a pickup only item Which makes life interesting for us old buggers that live in the bush. Same goes for a few of U-Beaut's products, it must be hard for him if places like Bunnings don't stock his stuff.
    I'm not really happy with the French Polish I got from Bunnies, it makes things too yellow, sort-of like looking through a graduated tobacco filter on a camera. The Liquid Amber pen I just finished lost it's gentle pale grey colour. Oh well, pull it apart and start again.

    It's fun and games trying to get Shellawax Glow, which is what I'm using down here in the south west because of the dangerous goods thingy. Not only is it about twenty dollars extra for the freight but they don't deliver to Kendenup (no one does, it's usually Mount Barker 20ks away but not this time) the closest they deliver is Albany, about 75ks, so it's a 150k round trip to pick it up on top of the $20 premium. On the plus side you could finish hundreds of pens from a 500ml bottle.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    489

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    Addiction, What addiction? Just because I am eyeing off various shrubs and trees and working out what the timber is like and what I might be able to make out of it, nah, I'm not addicted! Obsessed and somewhat preoccupied, perhaps, but not addicted. And just because I am working out how to carry the Dewalt flex volt chainsaw in the back of the Triton..... Like the good Boy Scout that I once was, I will be prepared!
    I just looked up Shellwax glow at Timberbits and they say it's dangerous goods so they can't ship it by courier which seems odd because they got it in a cardboard box containing 12 cans of the stuff that was transported by truck, probably not the same truck as they would use to send it to me but a truck just the same.
    If I go the spray can route I may have to think about some sort of spray booth that will protect the lathe from overspray or make some sort of thing that will rotate the blanks and keep them rotating while they dry, sort-of like those things fishing-rod builders use.
    I'll keep you in mind for those blanks but the simple truth is......I have no idea what I would want! Wood has always, for me at least, been selected for it's purpose in construction rather than for it's beauty. The Forest Oak I am now playing with was once prized as roofing shingles and fuel for a baker's oven.... And splitting it for roof shingles was dead easy once you got the hang of it.
    It's a whole new world out there.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    489

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    Quote Originally Posted by Biggus View Post
    It's fun and games trying to get Shellawax Glow, which is what I'm using down here in the south west because of the dangerous goods thingy. Not only is it about twenty dollars extra for the freight but they don't deliver to Kendenup (no one does, it's usually Mount Barker 20ks away but not this time) the closest they deliver is Albany, about 75ks, so it's a 150k round trip to pick it up on top of the $20 premium. On the plus side you could finish hundreds of pens from a 500ml bottle.
    Biggus, A few years ago I helped a friend who was distributing lubricants all over NSW. They went via Fastway. Some were dangerous goods, some were just boring old grease. The boxes were weighed, the DG's had a warning sticker on them and we put the pre-paid stickers on the boxes. It all went by weight and distance. The "Dangerous Goods" just went in the back of the van with all the other stuff and travelled on the same truck as all the other goods. I get the feeling we are being taken for a ride because we are living "in the regions" as out Premier would say. We are no longer "Bushies" but "Regionalists" or some such fancy politically correct term. But I won't be driving to Newcastle or Brisbane for a bottle of polish! Don't know how You Beaut gets on but it can't be easy running a business these days.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Caringbah, NSW
    Age
    81
    Posts
    385

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Hilly View Post
    If I go the spray can route I may have to think about some sort of spray booth that will protect the lathe from overspray or make some sort of thing that will rotate the blanks and keep them rotating while they dry, sort-of like those things fishing-rod builders use.
    Using the KISS principal, I just hang them on a piece of wire and spray them outside in the open. Touch dry in 10 minutes and recoat in one hour. Have been doing this for a few years and no lathe covering, no spray booth, no drying racks and no problems. Simple, eh?

    Cheers, Gary

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    489

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    Trust some clever bugger to come up with a simple solution! But how do you keep little flying critters from committing suicide on the wet paint and leaving little bits of themselves on your hard work? I had thought of using my air brush and some quick drying clear finish but it's the critters that worry me. Perhaps inside the shed with an exhaust fan and a bit of wire and a fishing swivel? But you are right Gary, it has to be a simple solution. Simple and cheap sounds even better.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Caringbah, NSW
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    81
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    Simple! Spray 'em outside and immediately hang 'em inside. The flyin' critters only have a maximum 10 minutes to commit suicide - after that they don't stick!

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    Well, the finishing experiments continue. The pen on the left, the first one I made, was finished with Feast Watson's French Polish which, I thought, made it look too yellow/tobacco coloured. So, in the interests of science, I went to the big green shed (again) and came home with a small box of goodies including tins go Gilly's Carnauba Polish and Restoring Polish. Which meant we needed another pen (No.3) made from the same log as pen No.1.
    The pen on the right is No.3 with Gilly's products rubbed in. I think the colours are more like the natural colour in the log, the original pen (on the left) was a bit more subdued because of the darkening effect of the French Polish.
    DSCN0727.jpg

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Kendenup, WA.
    Age
    60
    Posts
    250

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    Interesting result, the Carnauba wax makes the grain stand out more. The french polished one looks like the finish I get from Shellawax Glow. Unsure of which one I prefer more. Of course the pen pros often use superglue finish which is apparently the most durable method but I've been loathe to go down that route as the friction polish is quick and easy to apply and doesn't look 'plasticky'.

    At some point I guess I'll have to get some standard Shellawax and determine what wood suits the 'Glow' and what suits the lighter standard wax. I've got some of the Gilly's Carnauba wax as well so will have to give that a go too.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    489

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    I will have to try to find some "white" shellac flakes and try to make some friction polish based on shellac, metho and boiled linseed oil. Or perhaps try for something like clear acrylic from a spray can. It's all an experiment. And, I suppose, what works for one timber may not work for another.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Shepparton
    Posts
    508

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    You will find that carrols woodwork will deliver when you order from them if my memory servers me .

  12. #26
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    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    You seem to be correct Old One, which raises the question.....How can they ship a product that others claim not to be able to dispatch? Their shipping and handling charges don't seem to be excessive so I will have to get a few other items together to make it worthwhile.
    Thanks for the info.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Shepparton
    Posts
    508

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    hopefully I haven't opened a can of worms ,can't explain the difference in possible posting.

  14. #28
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    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    Yeah, got me beat. The proof of the pudding will be in the posting. Got to work out what else I might need because their prices seem a bit high, but I could be wrong there, I didn't do a whole lot of research.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    489

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary H View Post
    Simple! Spray 'em outside and immediately hang 'em inside. The flyin' critters only have a maximum 10 minutes to commit suicide - after that they don't stick!
    Gary, I just could not help myself. I had this "dead", almost antique, cheap and nasty battery drill sitting in it's box on a shelf. The batteries were buggered and the speed control on the trigger was dead. I had a short length of 6mm threaded rod on the bench and Jaycar had a speed control kit and a 12V plug pack. A couple of hours later and we have a "pen part rotator" that can sit in the sun and rotate bits of wood while I make a mess of spraying them with Cabothane. Why Cabothane? It's on the shelf at Bunnies and the other stuff is locked away and there was no-one around to unlock the cupboard.
    DSCN0747.jpg

  16. #30
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    489

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    Well, this is probably the last instalment for this saga. 3 pens from the same lump of Forest Oak, each with a different finish:
    On the left, we have "Feast Watson's" French Polish which seemed to darken the timber.
    In the middle we have "Gilly's" waxes (Restoring followed by Carnauba).
    And on the right, Cabots "Cabothane" spray pack acrylic varnish.
    For speed and ease of application we seem to go with French Polish, wax and then Spray finish. French Polish is definitely the fastest to apply but the result, at least for me, was less astounding than I had hoped for. The spray finish was easy but needed a rotator to even out the finish as it was applied and while it initially cured. The Cabothane may well prove to be the most durable of the three.
    DSCN0748.jpg

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