Thread: Starting up - progress report

Russell

my comments for what they are worth:
1. Congrats
2. You could try The Sandpaper Man for the micromesh. The website is here
6. Only one sheet of each. hmmm probably will need more. What grits did you get? I rip mine into size using a steel rule whilst watching tele. Have also found that if you buy it by the roll it is cheaper in the long run. Wonder how the bunnings prices compare with Sandpaper Man?
9. re CA you can get it from the $2 shops pretty cheaply, in little tubes.
12. The drill press is definitely better IMHO. I wonder if to get the extra few mm whether it would lessen runout to move the drill in the chuck rather then the blank in the vice. To use the drill in the lathe it's a lot of winding in and out of the tailstock, the lever action in the drill press is a lot quicker - which might result in less heat?
13. Acetone is vital - to clean the tubes and to get the rotten ca off fingers
15. I only hone mine when the edge starts to go to get a little more turning time out of each visit to the grinder
16. You might need the thinner ca for holding together burls and knots etc. don't forget the $2 shops. Some, I believe some Pengineers use the thicker ca to glue their tubes into the blanks.
17. The usual expert advice for lathe height is that the drive centre is at about elbow height with arm at side of body. I seem to like mine a tad higher then elbow height. I should raise mine about and inch and a half. It's probably easier to raise then to lower.

extra
Berea suggest that you block up the ends of the brass tubes to prevent glue from entering. They suggest "play doh" amongst other things. you can make your own, there are recipes on the web.

We are all waiting with baited breath for your first pen. You have to post a photo even if it a total disaster!

Thanks for that.

Yeah I know my sandpaper will run out quick, but ya gotta start somewhere I have some in my shed already somewhere, but since I wasn't sure what, I got 180, 240, 320 then in w&d 400, 600, 800 & 1200. I figure the micromesh goes from there.

I saw the 3ml(?) tubes of superglue (about 10 - 20 on a sheet, didn't count) for $1.99 at Crazy clarks and thought that might be convenient for the CA finish if it was the right consistency. You'd probably use one whole tube on each pen, but it's only about 20c per tube, and then you wouldn't have to worry about resealing it etc, just throw the empty tube away. Not sure if that's the best way to go though.

I was talking to gawdelpus about blocking the tubes, easrlier today. I wondered about bluetak, as we have that lying all over the place. But we're also in the process of growing our own potato's, so plenty of stuff around

I'll have to checkout the sandpaperman web site, looks like lots of variety there, which is good.


Thanks again. Russell.

Looks like you are more prepared than I am and I have been making pens for 18 months now. A good source of CA is hobby shops (particularly ones that do the better quality models). I get ZAPP glues from the Super Toyworld in Fyshwick. Its expensive but good stuff and I have a good stock of cheap tubes of CA which I use for sealing the ends after milling. You can get cheap packs of 5 for around $4 from Big W and the like.

When you get all this gear together make sure you keep the first pen, always good to look back at where you started.

mmmm... missing essential now is WOOD!!!!!!!!!!!
Won't make may anythings without some timber!

Good luck
JD

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Things I am yet to sort out
10. Got to make chisel grinding jig for my grinder
11. Got velcro sanding disk thingie on order from bunnings for my Multitool, then have to get some disks too.
12. Drill chuck for lathe - will persevere with drill press for now & see how I go. need to make holding jig for that though.
13. Acetone for cleanup (Bunnings had it - $9.30 for 500mls)
14.Polishing solution - I think I read Brasso was good? But is that for all finishes? Bunnings again had a small can for about $8.50, but I wasn't sure if it was to be used for everything. Any advice?
15. Something to hone chisels - needed or not?
16.Other CA for finish & glueing. Bunnings didn't have the "Mitre Fix" some have talked about. All the CA in the store had no identification as to thickness, apart from some saying it's a "Gel" so it doesn't run. What should I be looking for in types of CA?
17. Oh, and a Lathe bench, which I have to maek, but no one has given me the Lathe heights in my post under the general turning forum

And I think that's the essentials to get me started isn't it? If anyone notes any of the "bare necessities" I've missed, please let me know.

Thanks. Russell.

Sounds like you're off to a good start. As mentioned, the CA can be found cheap
in the bargain bins. You'll use quite a bit over time. For finish, you want the Thin or Medium. Thicker glues are easier to work with as they stay in place, but aren't good for a clear finish. They'll trap air bubbles and/or get cloudy. The gel is good for gluing tubes into the blanks, but so it the polyurethane or epoxy.

Acetone .. that sounds expensive. I usually pay a bit less than that for a gallon. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, purified, 100% or anything. You'll use it as a cleaner.

The drill chuck could wait for a bit but you'll want one. You can probably find an inexpensive one ($20?) if you look around. Keep your eyes open, no need to get everything at once.

Brasso will work as a polish for the CA or acrylics as a last step after the micro mesh pads. There's other polishes, but Brasso is probably easier to find, and usually less expensive. You can probably get it at the supermarket when you do your grocery shopping.

Honing chisels probably isn't a huge priority, as long as you can get a good edge with your grinding. We're not looking to put a 'scary sharp' edge on a chisel that is going to meet wood spinning at 3000RPM .. I think the honing is better, but not necessary.

As for the bench, I also prefer mine a little higher than recommended. This helps with my back (less bending over to see the work) and also stops me from approaching the work at too shallow an angle.

The grinding jig .. there's lots of websites out there that will show you how to make one.. but you shouldn't need it for the first few pens. You don't really need a jig for a quick 'touch up' of the chisel, which is what you'd most likely need getting started.

Most important before you get started:
Remove ALL weapons from your home and take a good photograph of yourself before you start turning your first pen. Put the photo on the refrigerator so that your family will not mistake you for an intruder when they finally see you again.

Originally Posted by NewLondon88

...
Most important before you get started:
Remove ALL weapons from your home and take a good photograph of yourself before you start turning your first pen. Put the photo on the refrigerator so that your family will not mistake you for an intruder when they finally see you again.

Too true
my SWMBO is already saying she's a pen widow

Originally Posted by Touchwood

mmmm... missing essential now is WOOD!!!!!!!!!!!
Won't make may anythings without some timber!

Well I got a big stack of Firewood - not pretty maybe, but plenty of practice... and I have a few pieces of good stuff up my sleeve

Russell.

Originally Posted by NewLondon88

Most important before you get started:
Remove ALL weapons from your home and take a good photograph of yourself before you start turning your first pen. Put the photo on the refrigerator so that your family will not mistake you for an intruder when they finally see you again.

Well she wanted me to get off the computer and out in the fresh(??) air a bit more

Russell.

May God have mercy on your soul!

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

If anyone notes any of the "bare necessities" I've missed, please let me know.

Thanks. Russell.

G'day Russell,

Latex gloves (when using CA). Eye protection . Burnishing oil. Friction Polish. A stubborn constitution regarding failures (they happen).

Originally Posted by dhurrang

G'day Russell,

Latex gloves (when using CA). Eye protection . Burnishing oil. Friction Polish. A stubborn constitution regarding failures (they happen).

Latex gloves - check!
Eye Protection - umm, do glasses count??

Friction Polish - next order
Resistance to setbacks - TBA

Russell.

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Eye Protection - umm, do glasses count??

No .

Proper protection at a MINIMUM is safety glasses. Face shield provides more coverage . Create a (good) habit, never go into the workshop without minimum eye protection. I've never worn glasses but I'm sure you can get tuffnd glass etc. A mate of mine wears his safety glasses over his reading glasses and uses an automotive glass anti-fog liquid (so do I now).

ps. I use Rustins friction polish.

I wouldn't rely on the glasses, either.
You'll be putting sharp objects into the path of other objects moving at
3000 or 4000 RPM. Parts fly off very quickly. Parts that have recently been
cut off with razor sharp tools.

Once you've turned with a face shield and hear just how many fast moving
pieces were going to hit your face, you won't settle for glasses, either.

Congratulation Russell you are on the way and will never have any money now.

Keep posting I like what you post.