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Thread: Thin Cuts - for Terry
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17th December 2008, 09:14 AM #1Nut and Bolt Fanatic
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Thin Cuts - for Terry
Terry asked about laminating thin ali but getting a wavy edge. I'm not sure if it was while turning or cutting the strips?
This closed ended pen, which I made some time ago, is made with very thin aluminium and brass strips. I cut the strips with a cheap paper guillotine. The ali is about twice as thick as a coke can and the brass foil is almost half as thick as an average can. The ali was from a food container and was coated. I trimmed the metal down to the blank with a sharp knife before turning.
The last pic is not of my work. This belonged to the Master.( the late Eagle ) This pic shows a lamination of coke can and black paper in a bloodwood blank. He turned this with a skew so sharp that you would cut yourself just looking at it!!!
I'm hopeless with a skew and prefer a round nosed scraper. It was pretty sharp too. Turned at fastest speed my lathe would go.
Cheers
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17th December 2008, 09:26 AM #2
Skiprat, once again, lovely, very ingenious once again, love your work, since one Master is gone I think the other has come on the scene!, Amos
Good, better, best, never let it rest;
Til your good is better, and your
better, best.
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17th December 2008, 09:56 AM #3
Hi Skiprat
I really appreciate your sharing your knowledge and application. As our resident Frenchman says we all learn from each other.
Thanks Peter
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17th December 2008, 02:10 PM #4
nice work
black paper hmm
already heard of the coke can idea - yet to do it though
Question: is it wise to rough up the aluminium a little with sandpaper so it gives something for the glue to bit to? Like one does with the tubes?Last edited by Sawdust Maker; 17th December 2008 at 02:14 PM. Reason: add question
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17th December 2008, 09:44 PM #5
Beautiful result. Interesting kit too, the nib is very unusual, what was it?
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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17th December 2008, 10:31 PM #6
I am also interested to know more about the aluminium technique. I tried a blank using araldyte but it fell apart on me. I didn't key the surface of the aluminium (I know I should have) but am also interested in the glue of choice for this style too.
I love both those pens too, I am guessing the black paper was stabilised with CA but interested to know more about the technique.
CorbsIt's only a mistake if you don't learn from it.
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17th December 2008, 10:35 PM #7Nut and Bolt Fanatic
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Neil, the kit is a cheapie from Axminster UK
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...Cap-649864.htm
Sawdust Maker, if using coke cans etc, then I wouldn't rough it up as you will remove the coating that the CA will stick to. If using thicker stuff then really rough sanding has helped me, but I think it has more to do with luck and the 'key' of the layer of glue rather than the adhesion. I've had more blow ups than successes
I've never tried this, but I believe many people have home powder coating setups and it apparently works very well.
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18th December 2008, 06:50 AM #8
Thanks Skippy, very interesting and when I try your method I will post the result.
Terry
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18th December 2008, 09:30 AM #9
I have tried laminating coke can but NEVER had any success. Even though i sanded the paint and laquer off both sides i could never get the layers to stay together. Everything was great till i drilled the hole through the middle, then at the can layer it always came apart. I have even tried to use Pickguard single and 3 ply and old credit cards, but the same results.
It was especialy bad in blanks that i had cut at an angle. I have used CA glue and epoxy, but with no success at all HELP!!!!!Last edited by celt40; 18th December 2008 at 09:31 AM. Reason: add content
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18th December 2008, 10:11 AM #10Nut and Bolt Fanatic
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Hiya Dermot,
The reason for using coke cans is because it has those coatings on it. Don't sand it off. Aluminium is notoriously difficult to glue. There are some very special glues for aluminium, but prohibitively expensive. Lotus cars use it on their chassis'.
If other joints are coming apart then perhaps your CA glue is ready for the bin? Or perhaps your drill bits are blunt and getting the CA or epoxy hot. CA releases at a fairly low temperature. Most of the Araldite epoxies release around 65degs. Thats about the same temperature as a cup of tea!!! I once got a tube stuck half way in ( haven't we all? ) an acrylic blank.I heated up a pot of water till it boiled then took it to my garage ( don't tell my wife )
I dropped the damned thing in the water and a few seconds later fished it out. While the whole thing was still hot, I managed to push the tube out and start again.
I did the same trick removing a finished pair of blanks from a Limited Ed Emperor.
I didn't like the way the pen looked with the coloured plastic and swapped it for black pr.
Of course if you leave greasy fingerprints on stuff like credit card or pickgaurd, then you should expect the joint to fail.
You could also try drilling your holes in the individual bits before gluing them.
Just experiment. Thats why they invented 24k slimlines
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18th December 2008, 10:53 AM #11
Thanks Skip,
I do like the blanks that you have shown they look classy and hard to make.
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18th December 2008, 11:15 AM #12
Celt,
For stuff like this,
I step drill the blank, starting with a sharp 1/4" or 7mm drill, and working my way up to the final size bore, allowing it to cool down between drillings.
After the pilot hole is drilled, you are basicly reaming out the bore, not drilling, so do it in small steps, less chance of tearing the brass.
The heat created by trying to drill the bigger bore in one pass weakens the joints between the brass or aluminum and the wood, no matter what glue you use, CA or epoxy, and all it takes is one snag on a dull drill bit to tear it apart.
I buy my brass and aluminum stock in rolls, 12" by 36", from Hobby Lobby, I am sure you can find a craft store near you that sells the same.
One of the few real indulgances I have allowed myself is with my drill bits, I buy them from a machine shop tool supplier...I find they are much sharper and much more true than the "pen maker" twist bits from other places, plus they hold an edge longer, and suprisingly, they are less expensive.
Nachi makes a good bit, in every size, metric and fractional you can imagine.
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18th December 2008, 03:21 PM #13
thanks for your replies everybody - very helpful
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18th December 2008, 10:24 PM #14
Amazing pen! Just beautiful.
When all is said and done, there is usually a whole lot more said than done.
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