Thread: Timber - coating with CA glue Super glue)

I overcome all of these problems by throwing the CA in the bin and converting to Min Wax wipe on polish. Have a look at the finish on the pens that Les does with Min Wax. If you don't want a high gloss finish, have a look at Kunos oil. Both of these finishes are very easy to use with good results.

Hi Randal,
Before I start to turn I put the blank on, then several paper washers on each end, in between the blank and the bushes. When you go to separate them, run a sharp utility knife through the paper washers. Remaining paper is cleaned off with a pen mill reversed, so the sharp end is towards the hand or chuck, on the blunt end I glue on 320 grit sand paper, a few twists and the paper comes off leaving a nice sharp edge.
I put on at least 10 - 12 coats of CA, using foam packing about 2 mm thick, tends to even out the lumps and bumps.
Then micro mesh them, using water and all the grits. I find that 400 is too coarse to start with, which is probably why you are sanding through as well as not enough CA coats.
The reason for the small waves is caused by the thin wet and dry on the fingers, which is another reason for the micro mesh as it's about 7mm thick evening out fingers, also it should be kept moving, so that grooves are not created.
Kryn

MINWAX Polyurethane using the Dipping Method is easy to apply to get a very durable and consistent finish each and every time.
I have found the MINWAX Polyurethane that was originally formulated for hardwood floors is just as durable as any CA finish.

Les

Les
what is the dipping method ? I'm guessing dip in on the end of a stick or something similar. Hold up vertical so the excess runs to the end ....

I saw some of your decals .. Trouts on a light timber .. Great stuff .. Is this coated with the Mini wax ..

daryl - I will look into kunos oil .. Never heard of it ...

kryn - I will give that a go.. I had to read a few times but I think I've got it .. I've got micro mesh but having really used it.



Randal

I'm only new to this game, but what I do to stop the bushings getting CA'ed to the pen blank, is to wipe it with a wax first, before you start the CA. Turn down to where you want it, sand it up, and just before you CA, wipe on the wax, and I found CA doesn't stick to it.
You might also might want to give a 800+ sand between coats of CA.
Theory is, you put 1 coat on, and it gets hills on it, you put another coat on, and those hills get bigger and thicker, and 1 more coat does the same, so in the end, you have a Mt Everest, not a Mt Kosciusko that you are then trying to get rid of. If you light sand between coats, you don't have much to fine grit down at the end . . .

Thats my take on it anyways

Originally Posted by Goggomobile

Les
what is the dipping method ? I'm guessing dip in on the end of a stick or something similar. Hold up vertical so the excess runs to the end ....

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f207/pen-finish-dipping-method-151717

Carroll's Woodcraft Supplies has Kunos oil.

Accco
Thanks. This thread is good.

How many coats ? I have mini wax rub on. can I use this ?

Randal

Make cone shaped Durlin bushings, and use them when applying the CA...not promoting the place that sells these( I work there part time) but here is a link to give you an idea..."cutting board " material works great for them.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/158...finishing.aspx

Always good to try new products on sample pieces first to ensure it is what you are after, or trying to achieve. Here is a pen that has been oiled with the Kunos natural oil sealer.

pen 1.4web.jpg

That's why I like Kunos oil on timber because it is a more natural look without the real glossy look. I use the gloss but it is more like a sheen and really highlights the grain. So easy to use.