Thread: Titanium European with Red Gum

I agree your pen is a fine example of preparation that paid off in spades. It will make someone very happy, I enjoyed seeing it too. Thanks Peter.

well done Toasty
The finish is nice and dose not look plastic at all.
That is the type of pen I'm looking for (I think) how dose it write i.e. fine or thick (I hope you know what I mean)

Got to agree your preparation work has paid off and the finish is superb, no plstic in sight for this one all timber characters. Well done

I suspect your finish looks better in the flesh ,I have done all my pens so far in shellawax or glow,at first was using just one coat,have since learned a few coats does improve the finish a bit without losing that natural polished feel of the wood,Some woods do come up very glossy indeed ,others just have a nice sheen to them ,but they all look good ,Once my fingers start to burn then its hot enough to really bond and do what its supposed to hehe, glad to see that the friction finishes are far from old hat or dead !

Thanks for the kind replies, everyone. I'll persevere with the Glow on some other blanks this week and see where the journey takes me. I've got a length of unknown hardwood which I'll give a go and see if I can get a real bright shine.

Nice pen. Timber goes well with the kit

so who's happy to be in the shed

Originally Posted by Rum Pig

how dose it write i.e. fine or thick (I hope you know what I mean)

RP, the CSUSA European is the same style as the Carbatec BT-401 Mont Blanc style kit, both use the "Cross" style refills, commonly found in most starter kits. The ballpoint doesn't feel too bad, but personally I don't find them as nice as a quality rollerball. The pen size is good for the ladies though, slightly more substantial than a slimline without going too overboard on weight.

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

so who's happy to be in the shed

It's great to be back in the workshop (OK it's a garage).

Love that "wood" look, very good colour with it also. Be interested in seeing how long it lasts, hope you didn't handle it until it "hardened", except with gloves or a cloth of course. Amos

Morning Amos,

Originally Posted by Woodenink

Be interested in seeing how long it lasts, hope you didn't handle it until it "hardened", except with gloves or a cloth of course. Amos

Neil (our benevolant dictator aka Ubeaut) posted to the thread russell made about different finishes and had a bit to say about comments on Shellawax Glow, one in particular:

Originally Posted by ubeaut

Shellawax does not have to be left alone for 2 weeks. It can be handled straight off the lathe. It takes 2 - 3 weeks for the cross linking to complete which gives it the extra resistance to such things as alcohol, water and heat, etc. But there is no reason why it can't be handled or used from the instant it comes off the lathe and is assembled.

That's why I didn't use any Triple E, sanded as high as I could go and used five coats. I'll be honest and admit in the past I have used Triple E first and only a single coat of Glow (yet we do up to 20 coats of CA )

If you didn't catch it, have a read of the rest of Neil's comments in this thread.

Made post in wrong spot

Nice work Toasty!
I'm a big fan of Shellawax and will have to try the Glow, as it is a little harder than ordinary Shellawax.

I found early in th experimental stages that speed and heat are the tings that bring up the shine.