Thread: Using wood on a metal lathe

Peter interesting stuff thanks.

Problems are as you have pointed out wood dust especially if you have oil fillers these will become clogged as well as areas the oil is servicing.

Thanks to John (Gawdelpus) I am now using a metal lathe for the more simple pens such as slimlines and streamlines or straight cuts. John was good enough to make the tools for me and they are great. I don't have any problems with timber clogging the works up. I have a DE over the metal lathe and it clears the fine dust. You can actually see it being sucked into the DE. However, I did have to make a special clear plastic frame which is attached to the back plate of the lathe and extends over the work so that all fine dust is captured by the DE and not allowed to circulate into the shed. The heavier pieces of timber scraps fall into the metal trap below the lathe and I vacuum them out at the end of each day of turning. The timber tools are great but I think you really need to know the correct angles and cuts before you attempt to make the tools yourself as they need to be very precise.

My tool is a similar shape, but just to give your sketch some perspective, I have added the item being turned against your tool sketch

So far other than drilling I haven't used the metal lathe for wood so I can't comment too much on the cutter angles. I have read some of the reprinted ornamental lathe books and they have pictures of the cutters used for the hardwoods and ivory they turned at that time.

Your remark on waxing the lathe bed is a first time seen for me though. I would think the waxes and oil wouldn't be a good mix, one affecting the other, but I'm not a chemist so can't back that up. All I have ever seen and done is to coat the bed generously with way oil, a sticky oil made for the purpose, that doesn't run off the metal surfaces. It is much like chainsaw bar oil, which some people use as an easily obtained substitute.

Pete

Like any tools for turning materials there are basic requirements that must be met , depending on material hardness and amounts to be removed cutting speed ,feed rates and cutting angles will vary from each user and material, according to experience . I have put up some pictures of the main tool I use for wood and acrylics ,trying to show the grinds I use . I angle the leading edge to allow some pressure of the cut to be applied to the wood ,and steer the swarf away from the work , because I turn between centres without bushes,my tool also needs the back of the tool to be angled at about 30 degrees to allow the point of the tool to get right into the centre without fouling the centre , My cutting edge is done on the corner of the grinding wheel to give a steep rake but leave the majority of the tool for strength , this works well on all the materials I have turned so far including some of the more difficult burls and composite materials , just keep it sharp as even wood and acrylics are abrasive . Cheers ~ John

Reminded of reading overseas over the years details of an Aussie invention Diamond Toolholder that uses HS Steel conventional sizes of tool steel simply cut flat 45 degrees diagonally that came with a simple device to hold the tool to address it to the grinding wheel, and yes they really work remarkably well for steel the one tool can be used for roughing, finishing ,end facing ,shoulder facing , threading. How do I confirm this I used one for years back in the distant past on my 1967 Hercus Metal Lathe..

Well I read lots of users have had remarkable success with this system turning wood but I was hesitant to mention this as I thought they were not sold anymore. Not so they are at Bay-Com Enterprises where there are superb illustrations they list the various machines they can suit including small lathes up. Crystal clear pics for your info on their site the price now is the same as I paid all those years ago as well. FYI. NB the tool also is used at dead centre for cutting.

I firmly believe the various responses forthcoming now may really show how when where and why to put to rest the interminable question can I use my metal lathe to??????.

Expense can be minimal using conventional tool holders and cutting tools or as in the case of modern tool post holders expensive but as a happy user of modern tool holders the ease of and convenience justifies the means.

Happy turning,

Kind regards Peter.

PS be sure to view the two videos when you look at the tool in action they explain the tool shape almost replicating my mates shaping but ever so much safer on the grinder with absolute repeatability.

http://www.eccentricengineering.com....article&id=2%2

Why go to the USA to get the Diamond tool when it is still made in Australia?

I have one and know of another guy local to me that has several.

Pete