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Thread: Value of buffing for pens
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31st May 2012, 11:16 AM #1
Value of buffing for pens
I've read quite a few posts in some of the American pen forums where users swear that buffing after their CA finish speeds things up and they don't have to use Micromesh. I'm wondering whether anyone has tried applying a CA finish and then just using EEE and then Shellawax to impart a shine as the pen blanks are already mounted on the lathe. Wouldn't that give the same result as buffing as all you are doing with buffing is cutting back a little and then applying a wax?
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31st May 2012, 03:20 PM #2
I only do CA and then MM.
Maybe 15 secs per pad x 9 = just over 2 minutes. Take longer to put compound on the buffing wheel and fire it up.
Only complaint I get is its too smooth and my fingers slip of the end.
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31st May 2012, 09:00 PM #3Senior Member
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I will quite often do just mothers plastic polish after I sand acrylic without using MM and it comes up pretty good. Haven't tried just that on CA though.
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31st May 2012, 09:09 PM #4
I only use CA and then MM followed by canurba wax.
But there is one way to find out Tiger and that is to try it.
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1st June 2012, 12:26 AM #5
Tiger,
To answer your question, yes you can do all of that on the lathe, buffing is a preference, not a requirement, it boils down to what works for you.
Finish, then polish/sand with MM thru the grits you choose, finish up with a fine plastic polish, wax and buff on on the lathe."That's why I love my computer,,,,,,,, my friends live in it."
- Colin Greg, Barnsley, South Yorkshire, England
Pen Turner Extraordinary and Accidental Philosopher.
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1st June 2012, 10:36 AM #6
Guess I posted this because I can get a reasonable finish with CA and there is some gloss there but I wanted to go a step further and get that lovely lustre that I have seen a few people get here.
Did try the EEE, then shellawax after CA and MM, nice shine but not sure that it will last.
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1st June 2012, 01:03 PM #7
Hey Tiger,
Have a go at this, my method is to sand the blank to 600 gr them Micro Mesh to pad #9, then apply the CA, you should have the desired finish, and its ready to Laser Engrave or assemble straight away.
HazzaBIt's Hard to Kick Goals, When the Ba^$%##ds Keep moving the Goal Posts.
Check out my Website www.harrybutlerdesigns.com.au
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1st June 2012, 01:25 PM #8
I was using MM on the blank before CA for a while until I was told that sanding so fine before CA will stop the CA penetrating into the timber as well as it should. I gather that affects sealing and grip of the finish.
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1st June 2012, 02:08 PM #9
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1st June 2012, 02:18 PM #10
Keep in mind the old wood working process that says the smoother the surface, the finer the finish...prep is a big part of the finish.
Also, there are several members here who routinly apply up to 20 coats of CA, with a light sanding between every 3 or 4 coats, so you can get a real deep finish that way.
I recommend that you try Hutts Plastic polish (or a suitable sub) as a final process, after all CA is a form of plastic.
I use the stuff on poly, CA, and lacquer with my wood pens, and of course on all my acrylic, it will really make a difference."That's why I love my computer,,,,,,,, my friends live in it."
- Colin Greg, Barnsley, South Yorkshire, England
Pen Turner Extraordinary and Accidental Philosopher.
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1st June 2012, 08:18 PM #11
This reminds me of the movie 'Ground Hog Day'
I never forget anything I remember !!
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1st June 2012, 09:53 PM #12
Its getting like that Steve.
So now I will ask a question. Does sanding with MM before applying CA affect the CA finish on the pen in that it doesn't penetrate as well and doesn't grip as well.
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2nd June 2012, 12:14 AM #13
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5th June 2012, 04:11 AM #14
For normal wood finishes, it is possible to make the wood too smooth and the finish will not penetrate well.
BUT CA is not a wood finish, it is a glue. Normal wood finishing rules do not apply to CA.
I strive for a deep glass-like gloss on my pens. I find that creates the WOW factor with my customers.
To get an amazing finish you need to polish the wood all the way thru all the MM grits. The ultra smooth wood causes the grain to pop much more. Russ Fairfield developed this idea, and I am a firm believer in what he found.
Next apply your CA and let it sit at least a day to fully harden. Run the CA thru all the MM grits making sure the first 4 grits are sanded along the blank too.
I do not skip any MM grits before buffing for the same reason I do not skip grits when sanding; skipping grits does not get rid of all the sanding scratches.
Finally I buff using an ultafine automotive polishing compound. I remove the mandrel from the lathe and use the mandrel as a buffing handle. This allows me to buff along the length of the blank.
You can see my buffing rig and more info on how I buff on my web site:
Homemade Buffer; Wood-working Shop, HardingPens.com
This method of finishing takes less than 5 minutes of labour (excluding the day wait for the CA to harden), and will create an amazing grain-popping glass-like finish.
Brad Harding
HardingPens.ca
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5th June 2012, 10:53 AM #15
This sounds counter intuitive because glue needs something to key into, after all that is why we scuff up the brass tubes before inserting into the pen so that the glue will work better. I have always wondered about sanding the blank beyond 600 grit as it may prevent the CA from bonding properly and require more coats.
Wow only 5 mins! It looks like a lot of labour to fit into that time period. Your results though based on your website are impressive, I thought it would have taken a lot longer for you to get those results.
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