Thread: Varying the slimline

Using the slimline kit makes for a good basis to make up variations by using different centre bands (Timberbits are a good supplier for these), making your own from Corian or a variety of contrasting woods. I've made a pen in the shape of a screw from a slim kit, the top was made as a closed end. Different clips also make a good variation .
Kryn

hey tiger
i have made a tutorial on how to make a slimline using a longer single piece of material heres the link to it https://www.woodworkforums.com/f207/t...torial-117711/ its also been made into a pdf as well
heres a pic of one done in BOW

I sometimes leave the centre band off and use a slightly longer tube for the nib end to compensate, I also leave the cap end about 2mm thicker and round the corners at the joint so it looks like a capped pen cheers ~ John

There's at least one person offering customized laser etching of 7mm pen clips.

There are posts here that show pens with different upper and lower woods and even custom turned centre bands.

One of the more interesting images I've seen, showed three pens of increasing length. The longest had no cap and clip but instead boasted a long tapered upper section 1and1/2 or 2 x normal pen length. I've had a quick search but can't find it again. Not sure if it's on this forum or somewhere else on the interweb. Maybe someone with a longer (no pun intended) history pen turning experience than me can recall a reference perhaps ? Or maybe one of you is even the turner) ?

Here's some that I turned for the "Pens for the Troops".
They feel better to write with than a slim for anyone with bigger hands.

I used black and white styrene sheets, I think they were 1mm thick, I just glued the sheets to the ends of the blanks, and drilled and turned as per normal.

Feel free to use them for inspiration if you like the look of them.


Click to enlarge.
Attachment 210253

There is also the "RussLine" named after the late Russ Fairfield.

I Googled Russline pen, here is one that came up...... PenPages-Shoppe1



Edit, just realised the page I linked to has pens for sale, I do not know who the seller is.

Thanks for the info, I particularly wanted to know whether you need to do anything to ensure that the twist mechanism still works ok once you change the basic layout of the pen. Up until now I have followed the instructions religiously and it's pretty easy but if you vary the centre-band dimensions or vary the length of the barrels do you need to alter anything else so the pen still works?

i dont think so tiger.

As another idea for modifying, i think because of the way they fit into the upper tube and its what does the activating they can be made double ended as well in a teachers pen style, red ink one end black ink in the other. You just need to allow for the room for the two pens not to touch internally in the centre tube. Just another idea, thought i'd throw it out there.

Neal.

Tiger, I don't think any of the measurements and lengths are crucial ( within reason )
What is crucial though is the length from the nib to the end of the transmission once you press it in, so you get the correct amount of refill protrusion, best to screw the refill in and check when you are getting close, then press in a bit more to get the correct amount.

Because the transmission still works at various depths, the tube lengths can vary quite a bit and the pen still functions.

That's a good tutorial Troy. Thanks for putting it online here. I printed it out and I will put it to good use next time I get to the shed. I've got a couple of slimlines to do for a guy at work who is making me a wind chime in leadlight glass. I think I got the better end of that exchange.

Streamline centre bands will also fit on a slimline pen if you want to go thicker with a metal band.

The streamline ring will work but the streamline centre bushes are slightly bigger if you are not going with a waisted pen shape.

Originally Posted by Ironwood

Tiger, I don't think any of the measurements and lengths are crucial ( within reason )
What is crucial though is the length from the nib to the end of the transmission once you press it in, so you get the correct amount of refill protrusion, best to screw the refill in and check when you are getting close, then press in a bit more to get the correct amount.

Because the transmission still works at various depths, the tube lengths can vary quite a bit and the pen still functions.

Thanks Ironwood, that was what I needed to know, I do like those pens for the troops and have a go at replicating one.

I googled "fatline pen", another of Russ's terms. This site came up, you might find some handy info here,
Pen51a

I see there is reference to the Father Sing pen which Darren ( Bdar ) mentioned in a recent thread.