Thread: Woodchuck pen pro in Australia?

Originally Posted by plantagenon

The Woodchuck has two sizes in the blades (tips) - R2 and R4. It is a good idea to buy a couple of spares from Bruce to save postage costs later. The blade (4 sided) will last a long while. I use the smaller blade for pens. I tried the larger blade once and slid my finger along the tool to remove some chips. Yep, managed to slice my finger open as the larger blade extends out more and I forgot and wasn't watching. The blade was so sharp it was almost a surgical cut. It really is a great tool for woodturners and surgeons.

Owch!!! Probably wouldn't have hurt during but i bet it stung like nothing else straight after.

Unfortunately Bruce doesn't sell them any more. I think i will be pouring in an order with a company in the states.

I get that these toos (and the Robert Sorby turnmaster - available locally) are generally designed for the novice woodturner but i have spoken to a number of pen makers who i respect their work who have recommended either the pen pro or similar tools for their ability to turn simply and quickly and of course maintain a sharp edge for a very long time.

I am getting better with my sharpening technique and this has helped out my turning to no end but having my pen tool always good to go would be really helpful.

Thanks everyone for your help on this thread

You can also try through NZ, often cheaper due to exchange rates and postage, here http://katools.co.nz/

Much cheaper postage and better currency exchange in NZ. The company Neil recommended is good

Thanks guys

Forget all the fancy tools and gadgets and do 2 things properly.

Speed and sharp tools.

2000 rpm is too slow for pen turning , 3000 is a minimum then use sharp tools.

A 3/4" roughing gouge is all that is needed, you get better control over the handle and ease of use over the toolrest.

This applies to both acrylic and timber pen blanks.

We proved this over the weekend at phillip island turnaround when lathes were cranked right up to full speed the cut of the tool was far superior than the chattering done at 2000 rpm. They were then able to start sanding at a higher grit than they were used to.

One other thing that many made a mistake with is that once they glued the blank then sprayed the accellerator assuming that everything was ok, wrong.

Glue today turn tomorrow, you have two dissimilar materials that set at different times, the accellerator only sets what it really comes into contact with.
By letting it set overnight the glue cures properly on both part .

Forget the gimicks and learn to it properly with the right tools.

I have to agree with Jim 100% on this - there are no quick "solutions". Only thing I would add is pay attention to the "traverse rate" of the tool across the tool rest - to fast & to aggressive causes problems.

The 3/4 or 1" spindle roughing gouge is a few tools in one - a roughing gouge, and it becomes a planing bedan on the wings and is used somewhat like a skew chisel (great for turning coves and ogees on larger spindle work). In fact you can get as good a planing cut off a well sharpened & honed edge on the wing of a spindle roughing gouge as you can of a skew.

I'm a fan of purchasing a number of pen tubes and building up a stock of glued up blanks well in advance and letting the glue cure, the timber and MC re-aclimatize after glue up. With my linear laminated bowl and goblet blanks (Titebond II) and celtic knot pen blanks I like to let them sit for weeks even months before I turn them.

Yep, the roughing gouge is a great tool. I do most of my work with the two I own.

One is a big old beast of high carbon steel that I picked up with my lathe, the other is a HSS Hamlet. I like the bigger one because of the heft. I find it easier to get good control in the early stages of roughing.

LIKE Jim I too like to turn at high speed when doing pens and for the same reasons. I find it works for both wood and resins. I slow the speed for sanding.