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  1. #1
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    Default Align incra miter gauge 90 deg- the best way

    I noticed my 1000SE gauge wasn't cutting perfectly square so I googled and found this video.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UC_iF5pZxmI

    I've always used the 5 cut method for my sleds and this provides an easy way to find the error and fixing it. Finding the error also works for miter gauges but the same fix isn't suitable as you don't really have a proper place to put a feeler gauge. So I tried the method in the video and it is brilliant. I clamped one end of a framing square to the fence and the other end had a fixed dial indicator touching it. I loosened the 3 screws but kept one fairly snug. I then moved the sled backwards and forwards and moved the fence until the dial indicator had a range of less than 0.1mm (4 thou). I ended up at about 3 thou. Tightened all screws, did a test run and bingo. Perfectly square. Just for the heck of it I did the 5 cut method and got virtually no error over the 4 cuts.

    I will not do the 5 cut method again. Way easier.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    This assumes that your square is actually at 90° and most large framing squares are not that accurate, but if you do have a large precision square then it is faster and a good way for a quick check.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    This assumes that your square is actually at 90° and most large framing squares are not that accurate, but if you do have a large precision square then it is faster and a good way for a quick check.
    Very true. My square must have been 90° as it was verified by the 5 cut method. Maybe using both methods is a good way of telling if your square is 90°. This method makes sense to me. The fence is moving via the miter slots, therefore your referencing should be made from those slots, not the blade as explained in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrTeFQ0iQ5k. I used to use the blade method, before the 5 cut method, but that only works if your blade is bang on parallel to the slots.

    Interestingly, I checked some of the other angles on the Incra gauge and when I used the angles on the left they were all (20,30,45) spot on but on the right they were 0.1 to 0.2 out, however, this was using a not perfect digital protractor with an accuracy of ± 0.30

  5. #4
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    Default

    I can't wait to give this a go. I have the Woodpecker saw gauge and I am waiting for my 250mm engineer square to arrive this week so I can calibrate my 1000HD. I ordered this one which has a blade thickness of 7mm which provides a good reliable surface for the dial indicator to measure from.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #5
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    I bought one of these ... https://www.cltoolcentre.com.au/accu...?search=square

    It's also very accurate and works well with this method of alignment. It has thick edges which rides smoothly against the dial indicator.

    Let us know how you got on with your alignment when it arrives.

  7. #6
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    It can be increased in accuracy if you use a large known 90° edge. A factory edge on a piece of store bought MDF or ply is astoundingly exact.

    This would give you the length necessary to do this hyper-accurate.

    I like this dial method!

    One could also use their very large framing square after getting it right with this DEAD EASY method: Is Your Framing Square Square? | Woodsmith Tips (which is what I do)

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    It can be increased in accuracy if you use a large known 90° edge. A factory edge on a piece of store bought MDF or ply is astoundingly exact.

    This would give you the length necessary to do this hyper-accurate.
    Absolutely agree Or masonite .... fantastic to get a perfect 90 degree reference for a mitre sled or mitre guage.

    Rob

  9. #8
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    True but the edge has to be really smooth so the dial indicator pointer doesn't jump all over the place. I firstly used a framing square that I've dropped many times. That jumping was that bad that I decided to buy a good quality square with a thick smooth edge. Also I found its not necessary to have a really long edge for this to work. 250mm (10") is plenty to give an accurate 90 deg fence to the slots. Every crosscut I've done since this alignment, long or short, was dead on 90 deg. I also checked with the 5 cut method and it had an error of under 2 thou over about 30cm (12")

  10. #9
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    I made a reference board with MDF and the dial indicator worked OK on the cut MDF, zero to zero on both ends over about 750mm, the middle had 5 thou under or over, I can't remember which.
    CHRIS

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I made a reference board with MDF and the dial indicator worked OK on the cut MDF, zero to zero on both ends over about 750mm, the middle had 5 thou under or over, I can't remember which.
    Sounds more like operator error" than saw adjustment

  12. #11
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    In what way and yes you could be right, this operator has a lot to learn. My main point was not the error but the face of a cut MDF causes the dial indicator no problems.
    CHRIS

  13. #12
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    So just a follow up regarding this method of aligning the mitre guage. After a lengthy delay and shipping issues my 250mm engineer square finally turned up. After a bit of mucking around (nothing to difficult) I got within .03mm (.001") after calibrating the square to the dial indicator seated within the left hand mitre slot. This reading was taken after completing the 5 cut method. I have tried to remove as much slop out of the mitre express as possible without impacting the ease of movement and I found it was essential to lock down the outboard support of the incra fence which you can clearly witness with a dial indicator.
    I am pretty happy with the method and results so far.

    Apologies if the photos turn out crooked again. I wish I could use my dial indicator to correct that!

    Cheers,

    Trav
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #13
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    Default

    I still reckon this thread has to be one of my very all time favorites.

    TBM1 - are you saying your Incra was out from the factory?

    They make a pretty big deal about how accurate it is set just so we dont need to noodle like this.... Better check mine... it has had a LOT of abuse

  15. #14
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    Hi Woodpixel,

    Mine probably was or close too from factory but I would never know. I only just purchased it with my mitre express and made the mods as per another current thread. This involved making the fence longer and I had just finished them with the fence extended to full capacity when I was rushing to clean up and I walked into the edge it. The force was such that it bent the locking mechanism on the HD protractor head as well as the most important reference point.... the teeth around the zero degree mark. I hadn't yet installed the outfeed locking clamp to stiffen the fence which may have prevented the issue. Hence a call into the boys at Incra in the US and about $80 bucks later the new protractor head and locking mechanism arrived for my already new mitre gauge. I can laugh now but there were some tears shed when I realised what I had damaged before I even got to use it.
    So long story short, I had to dismantle it anyway so it was a good chance to dial in the accuracy myself.

    But you do pay the price for stupidity.


    Thanks.

    Trav

  16. #15
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    Default

    For me, one of my cats knocked the iBox Jig onto the ground bending the entire adjusting/winding douverlackie. I liked the fact Incra sells individual parts.

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