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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    737

    Default Just one page

    Quote Originally Posted by hilton View Post
    Nice Grahame!

    Is there anything supposed to be on the second page as it's just blank?
    Hi

    Sorry for any confusion, I prepared the sheet in a bit of a rush and didn't convert just 1 sheet to PDF, it is designed as a single A3 sheet that will be laminated so it will be 'workshop proof' for a while at least. I'll need to have them printed somewhere as I don't have an A3 printer. Once I know the cost we'll work out how they can be distributed etc and if we need to charge for them.

    Regards

    Grahame

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Frankston, Melbourne
    Age
    61
    Posts
    195

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hilton View Post
    Did you only use the table saw or also the router table?

    If so, which method was easier or perhaps more accurate?
    Nah just used the table saw! Might look at router down the track (maybe) but as saw works good will stick with for time being.

    Cheers

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    737

    Default Updated version of Metric Stock Width Chart

    Hi all,

    The guys in Texas suggest the 4 spline option on the Splined Box Joints side of the chart be removed as these cannot be accurately produced.

    The revised chart can be downloaded HERE.

    I'm still looking at ways of distributing this as an A3 Laminated poster, the costs look pretty high, perhaps you'd be better putting it on a thumb drive and getting it printed and laminated at your local Officeworks or similar?

    Any ideas would be welcome.

    Regards

    Grahame

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Johannesburg
    Posts
    133

    Default

    Thanks Grahame.
    Cheers
    Hilton

    "Life is off the main road."

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Johannesburg
    Posts
    133

    Question

    Any idea why INCRA suggests you install the mitre slider in the right hand mitre slot if your saw tilts to the right and vise versa for left tilting saws?

    I can't see any application to tilt the saw blade to cut box joints?
    Cheers
    Hilton

    "Life is off the main road."

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    7

    Default

    G'day, mates. I just found this forum while searching on my favorite topic. My name is Alan Schaffter and I am from Washington, North Carolina, USA. The reason this is my favorite topic of late can be found on INCRA's INCREMENTAL Tools website at the very bottom of the IBOX "innovative features" listing or in the first paragraph here.

    I can't promise I will have a chance to visit here often, but once alerted, I will attempt to answer questions. A final note, I am not an INCRA employee. Product issues should be handled by your local dealer or INCRA.

    A note about the sizing sheet which I didn't know existed before the IBOX was released- As has been mentioned here it can be used to plan your joint layout or used to set the jig for splined joints. Not covered in the manual or video is the fact that within certain limits, you can make splined joints with almost any size fingers and splines, they don't have to be the same size. You only need the chart if you want the decorative splines to be the same width as the fingers and cut the splines on the IBOX. If you want to add thinner decorative splines made from wood, metals like brass, aluminum, or other contrasting colored materials, all you need to do is set the finger size for the cutter for a standard joint then dial in the thickness of the spline using the micro knob (one tic = .00108" and one rotation = 1/32"). You will likely need to trim your stock if you want full width first and last fingers. I guess I should, but I haven't tried a thin splined "center keyed" joint yet. The splined joint capability was an unplanned fortuitous side benefit of the micro adjustment method I discovered. I made the splined joints below almost two years ago with an IBOX prototype:

    (thin splines in upper right)



    (splines are just slightly narrower than the fingers)



    You can use the IBOX in either miter slot, however to lessen the torsion forces on the fence it is best used in the slot closest to the blade.

    To take full advantage of its capabilities and features, and so you only need to calibrate it once when using it with a dado blade on a tablesaw, the IBOX MUST be oriented so the adjustment knobs point in the direction of the saw's defined tilt- on your right for a right tilt saw (even though you will never tilt the blade when using an IBOX!). The reason for that is because how the mechanism works and the fact that a stacked dado only "grows" in one direction- the trimmer that goes on first against the arbor flange is static in relation to the saw and the IBOX, however the outter trimmer moves away from the arbor flange in the opposite direction to saw tilt as you add chippers and shims to increase finger size. This is clearly illustrated in the INCRA promo video and why I designed the front and back of the fence to be mirror images of each other.

    As to which is better or easier- tablesaw or router table- try both and decide for yourself. I prefer tablesaw- much quieter! Also, remember what I said about how a stacked dado "grows", well, when you change sizes, router bits get larger from the center of rotation outward in all directions. That means, unlike with a stacked dado on a tablesaw, you must kiss calibrate each time you change bits. It is not difficult, but is a consideration. You technically have an infinite number of finger sizes using a stacked dado. With a router table the available bits determine your options.

    Random user notes-


    • If you are meticulous in calibration, and setup, don't be surprised if your joints are a little snug. Don't worry! If you think about it, you have likely created a "perfect" joint. It isn't unusual for a first time user to get a perfect joint on the first try. Crank in one tic of micro adjustment to loosen it up.


    • Don't over-drive the guide plates when you run them together prior to calibrating the IBOX- it will result in a bad calibration and in a worst case could possibley damage the leadscrew followers. "Kiss calibration" doesn't mean to plant a hard one, it means a firm, but gentle kiss. The same goes for setting the guide pins to the dado width. Neither are difficult and you will quickly get a feel for the proper adjustments. FYI, I can set the IBOX blindfolded and with a safety observer of course, make a great looking joint.


    • Some of you may not want to use a clamp on the tablesaw- probably just fine (I don't ) but if you want to guarantee good looking joints and do the most to prevent backside tearout, I recommend it. A router bit creates a lot of side force on the work, so clamps should always be used there!

    FYI, your Australian Woodsmith (online #95) did a super review of the IBOX- best short review I've seen. The reviewer really understands how the jig works!

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Johannesburg
    Posts
    133

    Default

    Great post Alan, thanks!

    Wonderful design and I'm glad I bought it.
    Cheers
    Hilton

    "Life is off the main road."

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    737

    Default It's all about the 'Kiss'

    Quote Originally Posted by hilton View Post
    Any idea why INCRA suggests you install the mitre slider in the right hand mitre slot if your saw tilts to the right and vise versa for left tilting saws?

    I can't see any application to tilt the saw blade to cut box joints?
    Hi Hilton

    As Alan stated......... Stacked Dado Sets have a constant face and an expanding face. For calibration purposes i.e. the 'KISS' process. The fixed face is the datum or the one closest to the trunion of the saw. That way the calibration is retained irrespective of how wide the dado set is configured.

    I hope that these explanations answer the question?

    Thanks to Alan for the comment and of course the concept of the i-Box.


    Regards

    Grahame

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    51

    Default tablesaw compatability

    Hi folks,
    I have a Carba-tec TSC-10HB here in Australia.
    Before setting up the i-Box I decided to use it on the router table extension, however on taking it to the table have found that the mitre slots are too far away to enable the i-Box fences to reach the router bit.
    Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing the i-Box to an Incra mitre fence instead?
    Ron in Hobart

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    737

    Default We'll try

    Hi Ron

    In spite of measuring a whole lot of tablesaws in the US, there are a few that have wider blade to mitre slot spacings. If you give me the exact dimensions I'll see what I can organise.

    Regards

    Grahame

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Johannesburg
    Posts
    133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gwhat View Post

    I hope that these explanations answer the question?
    <blush>

    Yes thanks a lot. I should have just engaged my brain for a few seconds of course.
    Cheers
    Hilton

    "Life is off the main road."

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    737

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gwhat View Post
    Hi Ron

    In spite of measuring a whole lot of tablesaws in the US, there are a few that have wider blade to mitre slot spacings. If you give me the exact dimensions I'll see what I can organise.

    Regards

    Grahame
    Hi Ron

    I think I misunderstood, is the issue is with the Router Table attached to the saw not the saw itself?

    Regards

    Grahame

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    51

    Default i-box/tablesaw/router extension

    Yes Grahame, I have the router table extension attached to my tablesaw table and the distance from the near edge of the tablesaw mitre slot to the centre of the router shaft is 25cm..
    I could botch up a wooden spacer to attach the i-box to the mitre gauge, but was wondering if anyone had some different ideas as to how to solve the question.
    Thanks Ron Booth

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    7

    Default

    If you have a non-metallic router extension, add a miter slot to it. Use the saw's fence as a guide and a router to cut a groove for an aluminum miter track. Mount the track with adhesive and screws. I added an INCRA miter track to my laminate covered MDF router table top before I did early testing on the prototype- it was quick and easy.

    Another possible option is to use a wide cross-cut sled with a miter bar that rides in the nearest TS miter slot and a top that extends beyond the router. Mount the IBOX to the sled using the miter bar holes in the IBOX base. It would be large and a little unwieldy but should work. I would certainly consider a new miter slot first or just stick with the saw and dado blade.

    I think any other option would result in too much unwanted movement of the IBOX.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    51

    Default i-box/router

    Thanks Alan, but I have the Carbatec tableaw router table extension which is cast iron and already houses my big Triton router which to date has been a useful combination.
    I`m trying to remain with the IT idea of convergence and have as few pieces of equipment/machinery as possible (who does the boy think he is kidding???)
    I am limited to a single car garage as workspace for the moment, so the theory does stand up even if my weak will doesn`t.
    Ron

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