Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 6 of 6
Thread: Half Blind DT questiosn
-
24th May 2017, 02:43 PM #1New Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Location
- HOuston
- Posts
- 3
Half Blind DT questiosn
So building drawers that will have a 3/4" Bird's eye maple front and 1/2" poplar sides and back. The drawer front will look like the attached as it is covering the edges of a case. Why does Incra have you cut DT rabbit prior to making the half blinds on the tails? Also, since the front is 3/4", do I make a rabbit that is 1/2" deep?
Drawer front.jpg
-
24th May 2017 02:43 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
24th May 2017, 07:16 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Albury
- Posts
- 3,031
Don't know if it's just me, but I don't understand your drawing at all. Those look like reverse dovetails in the wrong orientation to me.
Your drawer side should be your tail board while your front will be the pin board. It is the tail board where the rabbet using your dovetail bit is required on the inside of the board before you cut your tails. If you cut it after the tails you'll get horrible tearout. Do you have the template guides and book? If not you'd find it very helpful when you're getting started. Where you have the drawer front as a full overlay on the cabinet sides it is more usual to make a drawer, including front, and then attach the overlay front to the drawer front, like below.
I guess you could rabbet the ends of the drawer front back to 1/4" thickness and use a 1/2" dovetail bit, but those 1/4" ends won't be very strong. If you Google 'half blind dovetail drawer image' it may help you understand what I'm trying to say.
Hope this helps.
-
25th May 2017, 12:47 AM #3New Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Location
- HOuston
- Posts
- 3
Sorry, the drawing was not to scale but just representative. It is a work in progress. I guess my concern with the above mentioned technique is now my overlay drawer front is 3/4" and the drawer is 1/2" so the front of the drawer becomes 1.25" so aesthetically I am concerned that is too thick. Drawers will be about 15" (381 mm) wide x about 10" deep (254 mm). Why couldn't I rabbit my overlay board 1/2" and then have 1/2" side and rear drawer sides. Attached drawing not showing dovetails. Drawing to scale horizontally
To Scale Drawer Width.jpg
-
25th May 2017, 04:46 PM #4
If you have the skill and tools, my suggestion would be to make your drawer fronts in two pieces. A regular maple drawer front 1/2" thick, through DT'd to the drawer sides, to which you glue a 1/2" bird's eye maple false front.
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
-
26th May 2017, 02:01 AM #5New Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Location
- HOuston
- Posts
- 3
-
28th May 2017, 01:52 PM #6
Hi
If the DT rabbet wasn't made the joint couldn't be assembled. The rabbet compensates for the radius at the end of the stopped cut into the drawer front. That is stopped, router cuts can't be square ended. The rabbet is never visible once assmbled
I hope this helps?
Regards
Grahame
Similar Threads
-
Half-blind Dovetails
By pmcgee in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 3Last Post: 23rd September 2012, 12:43 AM -
Half-Blind Dovetail Help
By E.Cama in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 5Last Post: 13th February 2012, 09:49 PM -
Half Blind Dovetail Jig - Help Please!
By metester in forum ROUTER JIGSReplies: 14Last Post: 19th February 2010, 07:18 PM -
Half blind dog
By Allan at Wallan in forum WOODIES JOKESReplies: 2Last Post: 8th November 2007, 08:44 PM -
half blind dovetail jig
By sbolton in forum BOX MAKINGReplies: 15Last Post: 11th September 2007, 02:32 PM