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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    HOuston
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    3

    Default Half Blind DT questiosn

    So building drawers that will have a 3/4" Bird's eye maple front and 1/2" poplar sides and back. The drawer front will look like the attached as it is covering the edges of a case. Why does Incra have you cut DT rabbit prior to making the half blinds on the tails? Also, since the front is 3/4", do I make a rabbit that is 1/2" deep?





    Drawer front.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
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    Default

    Don't know if it's just me, but I don't understand your drawing at all. Those look like reverse dovetails in the wrong orientation to me.

    Your drawer side should be your tail board while your front will be the pin board. It is the tail board where the rabbet using your dovetail bit is required on the inside of the board before you cut your tails. If you cut it after the tails you'll get horrible tearout. Do you have the template guides and book? If not you'd find it very helpful when you're getting started. Where you have the drawer front as a full overlay on the cabinet sides it is more usual to make a drawer, including front, and then attach the overlay front to the drawer front, like below.


    I guess you could rabbet the ends of the drawer front back to 1/4" thickness and use a 1/2" dovetail bit, but those 1/4" ends won't be very strong. If you Google 'half blind dovetail drawer image' it may help you understand what I'm trying to say.

    Hope this helps.
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  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    HOuston
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Sorry, the drawing was not to scale but just representative. It is a work in progress. I guess my concern with the above mentioned technique is now my overlay drawer front is 3/4" and the drawer is 1/2" so the front of the drawer becomes 1.25" so aesthetically I am concerned that is too thick. Drawers will be about 15" (381 mm) wide x about 10" deep (254 mm). Why couldn't I rabbit my overlay board 1/2" and then have 1/2" side and rear drawer sides. Attached drawing not showing dovetails. Drawing to scale horizontally
    To Scale Drawer Width.jpg

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    used to live in Sydney, now it's Canada
    Age
    64
    Posts
    11,036

    Default

    If you have the skill and tools, my suggestion would be to make your drawer fronts in two pieces. A regular maple drawer front 1/2" thick, through DT'd to the drawer sides, to which you glue a 1/2" bird's eye maple false front.
    regards from Canada

    ian

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    HOuston
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    If you have the skill and tools, my suggestion would be to make your drawer fronts in two pieces. A regular maple drawer front 1/2" thick, through DT'd to the drawer sides, to which you glue a 1/2" bird's eye maple false front.
    Thanks Ian, that will make the drawers 1" thick in the front. Aesthetically is that kosher? I have an Incra jig so yes can make the thru DT's. I also hate to waste 1/4" of the Bird's Eye as it is so expensive.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    741

    Default

    Hi
    If the DT rabbet wasn't made the joint couldn't be assembled. The rabbet compensates for the radius at the end of the stopped cut into the drawer front. That is stopped, router cuts can't be square ended. The rabbet is never visible once assmbled

    I hope this helps?

    Regards

    Grahame

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