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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    745

    Default Metric conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by RichardL View Post
    Hi Woodworker and thanks for the reply, yes it is great to finally get the thing operational. Thanks for the offer but I have actually got the metric conversion kit, but couldn't really figure out how it works as the green 1 mm toothed strips are longer than the shop stop. They must fit somehow.

    I appreciate what you say about repeatability and I'll certainly use the shop stop as you described. I just couldn't figure out whether the measure tape supplied (metric or imperial) was easily used. For example, it seems to be cut off at an odd length, how can the tape measure between the saw blade - well the edge of a carbide tip - and the work piece accurately? It doesn't appear to be explained in the notes that came with gauge (or I have lost a page). Or isn't that the purpose?

    I suppose, in the end, I'll do a test cut, adjust the shop stop and then it is set to make repeatable cuts. Great for the octaganal clock I'm about to start.

    Presumably using the gauge on the RHS isn't a problem although it'll take a bit of practice for me to do things back to front.
    Richard

    The Metric Racks are longer which just means you need fewer, and the one in the Flip Shop Stop can be cut down if you're the fussy type. When installing the new racks make sure they are in 'pitch' by pressing a mating rack to them before you tighten the fixings. The scales are then cut as required and slid into place and calibrated to your blade.

    Yes working on the RHS will take a little getting used to, but some saws only give this option, as they say, PRACTICE!!!!

    Enjoy.

    Regards

    The Woodworker

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    New Zealand (Palmerston North)
    Age
    62
    Posts
    238

    Default

    Good one, thanks for the advice. Just made an octagon - works perfectly!
    Cheers from NZ


    Richard

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    745

    Default Good stuff

    Quote Originally Posted by RichardL View Post
    Good one, thanks for the advice. Just made an octagon - works perfectly!
    Chris Taylor owner of Incra has made dodecahedrons on these mitre gauges, they're 12 sided object whose faces are pentagons. That requires exact angles cut at a compound angle.

    That's where the repeatability comes in, including accuracy to a 50th of a degree.

    Regards

    The Woodworker

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    I just need a tablesaw with a mitre track.....
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gwhat View Post
    Richard

    The Metric Racks are longer which just means you need fewer, and the one in the Flip Shop Stop can be cut down if you're the fussy type.

    The Woodworker

    If you weren't the fussy type you probably wouldn't buy Incra, I've got the 1000SE and I think it is magic! But then I'm the fussy type!

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    745

    Default Yeah we agree!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart. View Post
    I just need a tablesaw with a mitre track.....
    Stuart
    In the US were are referred to as the land of the weird size mitre slot, when we have to contend with some old Paulcall, Dyco's etc. I've not even mentioned the Triton mitre slot.

    These days it seems for very little more than what you pay for the workcentre + decent saw + DC bag, you can buy a fully featured 10" tablesaw, that has a blade that tilts, has 'real' mitre slots, and is painted in a colour that doesn't require you to wear sunnies when using it?

    There is a new Jet 'economy Super Saw' that is very impressive and takes all the Incra gear.

    Interesting to see the evolution of economical & practical hobby machines.

    Regards

    The Woodworker

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    Working on it.....but first I need a bigger shed, then some way of affording the saw, then some way of justifying it.....
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    New Zealand (Palmerston North)
    Age
    62
    Posts
    238

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gwhat View Post
    Stuart
    In the US were are referred to as the land of the weird size mitre slot, when we have to contend with some old Paulcall, Dyco's etc. I've not even mentioned the Triton mitre slot.

    These days it seems for very little more than what you pay for the workcentre + decent saw + DC bag, you can buy a fully featured 10" tablesaw, that has a blade that tilts, has 'real' mitre slots, and is painted in a colour that doesn't require you to wear sunnies when using it?

    There is a new Jet 'economy Super Saw' that is very impressive and takes all the Incra gear.

    Interesting to see the evolution of economical & practical hobby machines.

    Regards

    The Woodworker
    Just a note on the Dyco, I think the intention is that it is supposed to be a real mitre slot, I'm just guessing that my particular table isn't done right. They are certainly machined parallel to each other and to the blade (which is a relief). I'm trying to find out whether Dyco are still manufacturing and if they are I'll contact them and make the suggestion that they do make their table slots completely standard so others avoid the problems I have had. Like everything, my machine is a compromise, it doesn't tilt (like the orange machines you mention) as the same belt/motor drives the jointer.
    Cheers from NZ


    Richard

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Port Sorell Tasmania
    Age
    77
    Posts
    278

    Default

    I have the same problem with a Bosch GT10. It has T slots and I believed them to be 3/4" - the sides of the groove are about 3mm narrower. I didn't want to play around with the 1000se nor dismantle the saw to enable milling as some told me I would have to. Eventually found an engineering shop that say they can accurately widen the slots to 3/4" without dismantling. It happens this Tuesday. Will post the outcome. Should say that the table is aluminium which, in this instance, could be an advantage. Looking forward to trying out my metrically converted 1000se.

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