Another question on Incra Mitre 1000HD

**Arron** · 27th December 2012, 09:02 PM

Having used my recently purchased Incra Mitre gauge (1000HD) for the first time, I'm stuck on a fairly fundamental question. Being a good forumite, I did a search first and found this post which pretty much explains the problem https://www.woodworkforums.com/f70/se...missed-116983/ .
My issue is the same as Keiths's - as I do lots of 45degree cuts, I just dont see how the fence/scale/stop are any real use if every time I change from 90 to 45 degree I have to recalibrate the scale. Further, I will probably need to move the fence left or right as well if I want it to provide some support for the cut.

I read the response to Keith's post but dont see it provides an answer at all - or am I missing something ????

I took a couple of photos to show what I mean. In the first photo I have aligned the scale and stop to the zero point while the protractor is set at 90degrees and the fence is close enough to the blade to minimise chipping. In the second photo, I have done nothing other then reset the protractor to 45degrees - the result being that some of the fence now hangs to the right of the blade. Obviously, to proceed with this cut I would need to loosen the holding screws, move the fence to the left till it just clears the blade, retighten the screws, move the stop till it touches the blade, zero the measuring strip, then move the stop back to the desired length. Then when I go back to 90 degrees, repeat the proceedure.

If this is just the way Incra mitre gauges are then OK, its still a good bit of kit. However, I am curious about what other people do to get around this - especially those who do a lot of switching between 45 and 90 degrees.

cheers
Arron
incra_90degrees.jpg incra_45degrees.jpg

**hilton** · 28th December 2012, 07:01 AM

When you make cuts at 90 degrees, this is to accurately get the same length consistently, over and over. Some folks add MDF sub fences to act as zero clearance backer boards and you just need to adjust the scale to suit this.

For 45 degree cuts, it's not so much the length now, more the accurate angle that you're after.

**jchappo** · 28th December 2012, 07:25 AM

Use a sacrificial fence made from MDF - follow the instructions in the manual.
Set the aluminium fence so that it clears the blade at all angles from 0 to 45. Set the scale at the 90 degree position.
When using at 45 degrees, set the stop to zero and RECORD the OFFSET shown on the scale. There is no need to reset the scale, just do the math.
Generally, it is better to set the length of the 45 degree by test cuts, and use the scale for accurate fine tuning.

**Arron** · 28th December 2012, 08:13 AM

OK, thanks for the replies.
Seems the best thing to do is make an mdf subfence and record the offset for the 45 degree cuts on that so I dont forget it.

In terms of setting it up so that the cut is fully supported at both 90 and 45 degrees while still being able to use the stops then perhaps the best solution would be to set it up for 90 degrees and have a second mdf subfence that could be swapped in when making the 45 degree cut. As its only held on by 2 screws and doesnt carry a scale of its own then it seems to be the least-hassle solution. Anyone have any other strategy, or know of an accessory I might have overlooked ?

cheers
Arron

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