Thread: Router table top material pros and cons?

Originally Posted by ondablade

What do you guys think is best/are the pros and cons?

1. Section of laminated chipboard worktop - will it stay flat over time (chipboard tends to sag), and the possibility of swelling at the exposed edges in presence of even small amounts of moisture must be high?

The size of section that you would probably be using is unlikely to sag at all, but the thickness might be an issue. Sealing the cut edges with PVA will prevent any moisture problems.

Originally Posted by ondablade

2. Waterproof WBP grade birch ply, or MDF instead of chipboard - better, but maybe quite heavy in relation to its stifness/

You won't get such a neat job with ply and - unless reinforced - it could sag over time. MR MDF is a good choice, although I'd use 25mm or two sheets of 19mm laminated together. This could then be surfaced with laminate after sealing both sides and perimeter. Thickness issues will need to be overcome when fitting the plate and mechanisms.

Originally Posted by ondablade

3. Torsion box /lattice type frame in MDF or ply, with MDF or ply skins top and bottom - very stiff if the webs in the lattice are deep, but how flat can it be built?

Actual stiffness in a torsion box relies more on fit and glue-up than web depth and I've seen some very rigid boxes that were also quite slim. However, assembly is key and unless you've got a foolproof method of clamping, I doubt that it would be worth the effort, over an MDF top.

Originally Posted by ondablade

4. Sheet of 12-15mm polished granite, marble or even thick float glass (could crack or chip if something is dropped on it), laid over a metal frame (bolted up to avoid distortion - maybe from the Item aluminium extrusion system?) - getting expensive, and cutting the hole for the router or your router lift handle might be problematical, but it should stay flat? Perhaps not that expensive if sourced from your local stone fireplace or kitchen manufacturer for whom this is a stock material, they should be able to cut the ope and smooth the edges??

Other options? e.g. something like Lexan polycarbonate sheet over a metal frame?

Although I take your point that these materials are likely to stay flat, it might be time for a reality check here! Wood is an organic material, subject to expansion, contraction, warping and twisting, especially when affected by humidity, changes in temperature, etc. The most "engineered" project in wood depends upon its material for accuracy and stability - so I think that the sort of precision your shooting for might be unrealistic. We all aspire to produce perfect joints, etc., but there are tolerances that wood will defy!

Ray

If you have invested in the LS system and Wonder Fence (as I have recently done), you would be wise to also invest in the Incra table top.
I had what I thought was a good Rockler table top that I was going to use with the LS but it turned out to have taken a "sag" in the middle.
I purchased the Incra table and have been very happy with it. My only regret is not purchasing the whole system as a package and maybe saving a few bucks.

(No connection with Incra - just a satisfied customer)

Thanks guys. I guess the chipboard has another disadvantage in that screw holes are likely not to tolerate much use without stripping out.

Much like you say Ray, my concern about a torsion box too is to build it flat and so that it stays together - there's a lot of scope there for problems.

I've been so far consistently very impressed with Incra and the quality and value of their products too Larry, although not having used the LS system yet i'd been witholding comment.

They use 1 1/4 MDF with laminate on both sides on their table top, and it sounds like this is probably a good middle ground and the way to go. Especially with lengths of angle iron screwed to the underneath to prevent any sagging. (they do a bracing kit too)

When I bought my LS i was planning to integrate the table outboard of the jointer on a Robland combo (and so didn't buy the table top as i figured it would need a lot of cutting about/extension) but now i've changed back to a free standing router table and separate Hammer K3 Perform panel saw so the Incra table top becomes an option again.

A 27 X 43 in table top and matching stand from Incra http://www.incrementaltools.com/Articles.asp?ID=138 would it sounds provide a quality top, and at the same time save a lot of poncing about cutting table openings, fitting clamp tracks and the like. The stand looks like a very nice chassis around which to build a cabinet too, not to mention something on which it'd be easy to hang extension tables if needed. KISS...

Thanks for the prompts guys, there's a lot to be said for keeping it simple, and springing some cash when it saves a lot of time on non-paying stuff...

Incra router table and stand now ordered....