Thread: 3 reno problems

Project 1 - have a look at the pergola & deck book by Alan Staines and see if what you are proposing is simple and will not affect the structural integrity of the existing structures.
Project 2 - quite normal in houses these days that are well sealed (which offers higher energy efficiency). The problem can arise in cooler climates in bedrooms as much as bathrooms from a lack of fresh air changes during the night when water vapor from expired air condenses on the cooler glass/aluminium allowing spores to settle and grow.
Project 3 - you could re-run the water pipe in poly and route it elsewhere (run it under the house or bury it). As for the ducts - flexible duct is easy to extend and re-route given you have some space under the house.

Thanks, Eastie for your comments.

Project 1 I have looked at the book by Staines (actually bought it) but like most of his stuff it's hard to understand and lacks real detail. Did you have a particular page in mind?

Project 2, Your anaylsis could well be right, do you know of any solutions?

Project 3, Can you tell me a bit more about running the pipe in poly ie what diameter? I am no plumber but if I need to swap from gal pipe to something else, I will. I was hoping not to have to do any plumbing but the gal pipe is looking a little rusty.

For option 3...

I would suggest you repalce the old gal pipe all the way to the meter in 19mm or old school 3/4 inch copper or poly pipe. It is not too difficult to do just make sure you bury it at least 300-400mm deep. You don't want to put a garden fork through it at later date!

cheers

Jim,

Thanks for the advice. How difficult would it be to replace the gal pipe with copper pipe? I suppose it's one of those jobs that only plumbers are allowed to do. Not at home at the moment but pretty sure that the gal pipe is connected to the hot water system, don't know if that makes it any more difficult.

Had the same mildew problem with aluminium windows in our last place - the best I could do was keep the bedroom windows open - between 1/2 to 1 inch to allow natural ventilation. It is'nt really that big of a problem so clean it off with a mould killer a couple of times a year. As for the book - if you've read through the book and can't come up with a solution I suggest you get someone in to design for you.

We had a similar mould problem - found mainly it was caused by condensation on the windows that then heated up and created a nice little environment for spores.
Solution - ventilation and air movement.
Mould typically grows best in environments with little to no air flow - even people moving around a house causes enough air movement - think of the smell of a house that's been sitting for a while with noone in it.

I would crack the window open and let the air flow, or another suggestion I had from an 'expert' when we were looking was to put vents that cycled air into the floor cavity or the ceiling cavity or to outside - the kind with 12v fans - you put them on a timer. This helps create air movement.

We have tried the window opening trick and we have ducted heating which is on everyday between March and October so you'd reckon there would be plenty of airflow.

I should mention (and it probably wasn't clear in my first post) that the dampness/water was in some areas under the house not in the house itself. We can't see where the water is coming from, there's not much there and I don't know if it has any relevance.

Tiger

Prob 1: The book by Staines really is the best resource around. I don't have it in front of me, but you need to read the bit about the spans allowable between posts. I would expect that, if your pergola was built correctly in the first place, that you could expand the pergola to the other side of the post the same width as is already there. ie if there is a 3 m span between posts, you could probably go three metres out from the post.

Tke staines book is a little complicated, but you really need to know this stuff if you are building a deck or pergola. It is not uncommon, for example, for a strong wind to rip a pergola (or more likely a shade sail) right out of the wall if it s not done right. If you weren't going to put a roof over it, you could probably fudge it, but with a roof, they will catch the wind and can rip, for example, you fascia board right off the roof.

Like Eastie said, if the book makes no sense to you, perhaps get someone to come and design it for you. But persist with the book because once you work it out, it is easy to use. I made a deck based solely on that book - it took me a while to design it, but everything worked well.

Prob 2: I use ducted gas heating though winter and we never have mildew problems. But our humidity is probably lower than most areas. The problem, as others have correctly identified, is that there is not enough air movement. The moisture in the air near the window condenses (because it is colder near the window) and forms a fog on the window and then dribbles down to the bottom eventually.

The best way to fix it is to ensure you have air movement. Don't sleep with the bedroom door closed if you can help it and try and keep one window open a bit. Another option is to put a vent in the ceiling up into the roof cavity - you see them in bathrooms pretty regularly. You can buy the vents from bunnings for about 20 bucks.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Trav

Trav, thanks for the suggestions.

Proj 1, I understand the allowable spans etc. I built the pergola in the first place, checked the codes, applied for a building permit and built it. At the time, we were strapped for funds and that is why now we wish to extend it. The Staines book is one of only a few books around and it covers spans and thicknessess etc. but is not a great diy book, you are right you do need some prior knowledge. In my opinion, you'd struggle to build anything with the Staines books as they rely on ordinary illustrations and lack detail but there isn't much around so I have bought most of them. The question with the pergola is can I cut away where the beam is now and add a smaller beam to the same post? This attached smaller beam would then be supported by another post further on.

Proj 2, I am going to look at those vents and try them out.

Tiger

I think I understand what you mean.

I think the rule of thumb is that you should not house out more than 1/2 of the thickness of the post. ie. if you want to have two bits of timber bolted to the one post (one on the front and one on the back), you house out 1/4 on each side.

If you were going to use that post, I would be more inclined to use a lap joint. ie if the post is 90x90, and the joist 140x90, you'd take a piece off the existing joist that is 90x70 (ie the width of the post and half the height of the joist) from either the top or the bottom. The new joist would have the inverse. Then use a bolt through each joist and the post.

I didn't explain it well, but you might know what I mean. If not, I'll try and explain it better. :confused:

Others may have better ideas.

Trav

I have replaced a heap of gal piping with copper (cold and hot). I used flared fittings which makes life very easy, although more expensive than silver solder fittings, they will do the same job.

My suggestion is to replace the pipe all the way back to the main cold water source and replace as much gal pipe as possible. You will notice a heck of a difference in water pressure.

Word of advice DO NOT BUY PLUMBING FITTINGS AT BUNNINGS. I bought all my parts at Tradelink in Syndal...and press them on price. Most parts I bought where 1/5th the cost Bunnings had, and they were far superior fittings.

Just remember...heaps of teflon tape on all threads and if you want to go overboard...use some gas fitters paste as well on the thread and flare.

Its just like a big Mecano set, only you dont want it to leak!

Trav and Jim,

You're right, I wouldn't house out more than half the joint, only thing is the coach bolt is right through the middle of the post, if I attach the other beam to it the coach bolt will be sitting toward the end of the post rather than through the middle but maybe that doesn't matter.

Jim, my experience with Bunnies is like yours, don't buy fittings there if you can avoid it. However, having another look at the situation I think the pipe may be a gas pipe not water as I thought. Most of the pipe is underground so you cannot clearly see where it starts but I now strongly suspect that it's gas. Are they the same as changing water pipes ----------- if you turn the gas off or do I need to call a plumber?

Problem 2 - common on this side of the Tasman - Hi humidity and all.
One of those portable de-humidifiers will help to reduce the condensation. When I moved into this house I actually had MOSS growing on the aluminium windows in the bathroom!! Now I just leave the D/H on with the humidistat set in the middle of the range and it keeps the whole house dryer

Ian

Would you need a dehumidifier in every room as we have this problem in 4 or 5 rooms? Wouldn't this get expensive?