Thread: Colorbond Roof DYI Install

Hi, I'm always worried about getting taken three houses up by a gust of wind but here are my comments, which may help?

I think sislation is the way to go.

We found in the past that we needed to predrill the holes in the tin ... the ordinary drill just wasn't as good as what the professionals use ... yours may be better though?

Choose a low wind day!

You may need to hire a nibbler if you need to do any cutting.

It's normally wise to do the stumping first for any project if it's required, I guess it depends how much it has moved?

Might be worth having a corded drill on standby, even a real cheapie, depending on the quality of your cordless drill battery, it could run out of puff too quick. Even a GMC screw gun could be worth considering, reasonably cheap from memory.

Hammer a small hole with a sharpened 6" nail as a punch, will make things easier for your drill, and prevent the screw skating off the ridge. First 1/2 doz holes will calibrate your knockometer


Good luck...............cheers.............Sean

dreinoga

Here is a post I made in another thread that may be helpful.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...hlight=roofing

You could probably hire a proper Electric Screwdriver.

To weather the sheets an adjustable wrench is ideal, yes just turn up the valleys of the ripple.

If you are screwing into timber you need 12 x 50 Type 17 screws with neoprene washers. If you are screwing into steel a 12 x 35 Teks with Neoprene washers. If you use a drill to install them you will probably destroy half of the washers and that is not good. With an electric screwdriver with a proper nose cone it will set every screw evenly.

To start the screw just give it a hard push on the screwdriver before pulling the trigger and that will create a dent in the sheet and the Type 17's will create their own hole and I would recommend Buildex screws over any thing else.

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing properly. I spent half of my time with Lysaghts inspecting noisy roofs which where caused by uneven tension on the screws because they where installed with a drill and not a proper electric screwdriver and that included so called roof plumbers who were too tight to buy a proper screwdriver.

Tools are not a problem, got a Bosch Blue 24V Impact Drill/Driver with spare batterys. but will have the corded Bosch Blue on hand as well.

Was thinking of using my 9" angle grinder to cut the tip, tho I don't have a nibbler yet, all major project must! include an additional tool purchase in my opinion, how else would I get it past the missus...lol

Was def planning on doing it on a still day for sure!

Thanks Barry,

Have read that post as well.

Will def have a look at a cordless screwdriver, not sure exactly what you mean by the " nose cone"...

this is what I have..

http://auptocs.bosch-pt.com/boptocs-...8&prod_id=7503

It has all the torque settings etc

Originally Posted by dreinoga

Thanks Barry,

Have read that post as well.

Will def have a look at a cordless screwdriver, not sure exactly what you mean by the " nose cone"...

this is what I have..

http://auptocs.bosch-pt.com/boptocs-...8&prod_id=7503

It has all the torque settings etc

dreinoga

This is an electric Screwdriver. The Nose Cone is the Silver Nozzle on the front also known as the depth stop. This is adjustable to allow you to set the depth of the screw and when the screw reachs the predetermined depth the clutch releases the drive from the screw and every screw is set at exactly the same depth. Uneven tension on the screws causes noisy roofs.

http://www.metabo.com.au/metabo/hand..._20002_19.html

All professional roofers use them as that obviates claims for noisy roofs.

It would be ok to cut the sheeting with the angle grinder, just make sure all the cut edges are under capping and flashings.

Barry,

I've been told using an angle grinder to trim corro, allows the corro to rust on the cut edge, so only a nibbler or aviation snips are to be used???

I recently did our forst roof on the house and have in the past done other roofs. I used to punch the roof firts to allow the screw to start, but this roof i used roof zips made by buildex and had no trouble at all starting all of them, they wehre terrific and all but melted their way through the tin.

Also I used a $19 drill from supercheap to put nearly 1000 screws in, some I had to screw back out as I fragged the washer, but I guess I can't say they are all in 'exactly' the same depth. (Drill has subsequently died while installing a mortice lock into solid timber doors)

Originally Posted by Sigidi

Barry,

I've been told using an angle grinder to trim corro, allows the corro to rust on the cut edge, so only a nibbler or aviation snips are to be used???

)

If I lived on the coast close to the surf I would use a nibbler or snips or perhaps even close to the coast. But inland I have had angle grinder cut Colorbond lying out in a paddock for 20 years exposed to the elements and the rust has gone no further than right on the edge where it was cut.

A lot of builders and roofers these days use those Makita Cold Cutting saws to cut roofing like this.

http://www.makita.com.au/catalogue/d...hp?tmodel=4131

Originally Posted by Sigidi

some I had to screw back out as I fragged the washer,

That is why a proper screwdriver is the best way to go.

A couple of observations. Colorbond if cut with an angle grinder is best cut from the back face of the sheet or at minimum covered right up to the cutting line. The hot metal filings melt straight into the paint.
A roofing screw gun is well worth hiring if you've got a fair bit to do. If not have a reasonable backup of batteries especially if screwing into hardwood.
Fixing roofing iron by anyone except a registered plumber is illegal (certainly in Vic & I assume in other states)- so watch out for the inspectors & worksafe.

Originally Posted by ausdesign

Fixing roofing iron by anyone except a registered plumber is illegal (certainly in Vic & I assume in other states)- so watch out for the inspectors & worksafe.

Up here, I can and have done my own plans, footings (did have to get them OK'd by engineer, but designed them myself) cut my own timber, graded it myself, have done posts, bearers, joists, floor, wall frames, designed the bracing and tie-down myself, done the bracing myself too, got help to throw up trusses, put the roof on myself (no help even passing sheets up ) did the gutters and fascia with help and have taken all rainwater to our tanks. I do have to get the sparky in to conect cable, but I'm doing the rough in. I also have to get a plumber in for fixtures, but will be his offsider whilst he's here.

All of which has been OK'd by council. Specifically on water I'm allowed to do all the stormwater, but do need a Plumber for everything else.
Don't know if it's just our council or if it's a Qld thing???

Hopefully this will mean a builders quote of $375K to build will in fact be in the tune of $80K Fingers crossed for me:eek:

Bunnings has a GMC drywall screwdriver for $49, could this be used for roofing as well?

Cheers
Pulse

Plumbing Industry Commission in vic hand out big fines for unregistered persons doing plumbing work (including owners), suggest you do it on the weekend. Often other plumbers will dob you in. Restump first or your gutters will not fall the way you want depending on how unlevel the house is.

Originally Posted by Pulse

Bunnings has a GMC drywall screwdriver for $49, could this be used for roofing as well?

Cheers
Pulse

That would certainly do the job and its cheap enough to throw away after the job is finished.

Just one comment about the sisalation. When I re-roofed my old house (had a super 6 roof) I asked the plumber about sisalation and he siad it is not worth the money. Reckons that in time it degrades and falls away from the roof. His advice was not to wory about the sisalation, but install a whirly-bird and get some good quality insulation on top of the ceiling.

To double check his theory I jumped up into my old boy's roof (installed in 93) that had sisalation and sure enough it was starting to fall away from the roof in places, effectively reducing its effectiveness.