Thread: replacing studs in old frame

I'm no expert, but if you don't mind spending the time & effort, predrilling and screwing would probably give the best strength. I've predrilled and nailed into studs, that works as well, just drill a hole slightly smaller than the nails and nail you'd normally do, follow up with a nail punch & use bullet head nails if you want it recessed into the wood.

Otherwise, Bunnings (or other hire places) rent nailguns which use a disposable fuel cartridge which shoots a given no. (100 or so?) nails per cartridge - this makes it more portable and doesn't need a compressor). They do 24 hour rentals.

thanks, another thing I just thought of is that I wont be able to nail through the top and bottom plates into the studs. I guess at an angle from the side would do it?

A Paslode gas gun as advised may struggle driving nails into the old hardwood frame.

If you have access to a compressor you may be better off with an air powered framing gun - more punch.

I guess at an angle from the side would do it?

Yep, toenailing or skewnailing I think it's called.


Cheers...............Sean

If you haven't got access to a nail gun (which is ideal)...then like mentioned drill and skrew.

I'd practise first on some of the old wood. If its hard wood you'll probably want a drill bit very close in diameter to that of the screw....any smaller and it could be too hard to drive.

Setup a couple of powered drills if you can. One with the bit and one to drive in. Hex head screws will drive better than hex head....just ensure you line the drill up straight with the screw, else you could spin the head in the screw....If the holes too tight and you spin the screw midway, damaging screw, you could stuff your chances of removing it..... etc. Anyway. Goodluck.

Drilling and skew-nailing by hand is all that's needed. I'd use a drill that's slightly under-sized to the nail and give the nail a quick wipe down the side of a wax candle if a bit of lube is necessary.

Screws are a bit of overkill: they'd be fine but are more expensive, take longer to install and give no real extra benefit. (Unless you're expecting the top and bottom plates to fly off in different directions for some reason. )

A quick tip - if you drill the face of the stud low down with a spade bit a couple of mm deep, this gives you a "corner" to start the small drill bit off without wandering - see pic below.

Can also do this by hitting the side of a nailhead into the timber to create a notch.

I used the former idea when I made up a heap of t/pine frames for latticework, drilling for skewed batten screws. Worked well.

I've got a framing gun but I'd be inclined to drill and handnail on a skew.
The old timber could split with a gun or the nails not drive right in.