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Thread: Blackbutt T&G

  1. #16
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    If you use hessian, hang it wet and stretch it firm. As it dries it shrinks and you will get a good straight substrate. When dried you could render it or apply wallpaper to it.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

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  3. #17
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    ooooo I like some of those murals... wish I could draw/paint

    Can't find much on how to do hessian walls... probably a sign

    I don't fancy cow dung on my walls... :eek:

    Would plaster mix slopped on stick to wood? like rendering?
    I don't know why I'm stuck on this idea :confused:

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by gemi_babe

    Would plaster mix slopped on stick to wood? like rendering?
    A couple of internal walls of my house are plastered ( The rest are masonite :eek: ) they have a backing of thin strips of wood with gaps between - old fashioned wattle and daub construction - lots of old ceilings are like this too. So yes plaster mix will stick to wood but I suspect that you need the ratio of gaps to wood to be around the 50:50 mark.
    no-one said on their death bed I wish I spent more time in the office!

  5. #19
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    Plaster will stick to the timber but as the timber expands and contracts with humidity changes it is likely to crack at the joints between the boards.

    Hessian lined walls were common a century ago. They were superceded by lath and plaster.

    You could use render plaster over hessian reliably.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  6. #20
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    The old lath and plaster ratio was probably more like 3:1 timber:gap and the plaster was reinforced with long fibres possibly of horse hair or hemp. I wouldn't trust plaster straight onto your timber walls not to crack with any movement.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  7. #21
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    I'm with Mick. I reckon plaster will be trouble. Can you post a pic of the wall in question Kylie?

    Without looking at it this would be my course of action FWIW.

    1. Sand back with ROS to clean up and remove any residue. Has it had any finish before?

    2. Clean down with turps allow to dry

    3. Fill any big gaps, edges etc with a flexible compound such as silicon but I'm not sure how you colour match?? (black?). They may be other products. Some repairs, trim, coving etc might need doing.

    4. Oil the daylights out of it with something like tung oil, maybe four coats and that would cost a bit. How many m2?

    This wont solve the problem but I reckon it will reduce it heaps. Thats what I've found with old T&G floorboards that have been allowed to really dry out anyways. As for the cost of a Tung Oil product well I think your up for some bickies either way.

    Sincerley hope this helps

    Cheers
    Squizzy

    "It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}

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