Thread: Driving me crazy!

When i recently built my deck i went off the Mitre 10(Hardware) " How to build a deck" brochure, for post spacing , it said to dig posts 1.8 out from the house and then 1.5 across.
I would think 1.7 would be fine.


In regard to skew nailing the bearers to the posts personally i would not do this i would spend the time and notch out all the posts and bolt the bearers.
Paul

It appears that Mitre 10 NZ doesn't have a link to their plans but here is the link to the Aust. Mitre 10 Build a Deck plans http://www.mitre10.com.au/DIY-Centra.../Build-a-deck/

thanks guys good advice and yeah paul have decided to notch out the posts, for a 15x125 post is 25mm both sides ok ? one bearer either side?

You might need to wait for further advice from some of the senior members of this forum as i have only built the one deck.... But from what i have researched for decks over 1 metre you need to fully house the bearer so you would need a notch of 45 mm.if you are using 140 x 45...

I have not seen too many designs where the bearer would be on either side as in this case you wouldnt be able to notch out this much either side as there would be hardly anything in the middle.... Personally I would use one bearer per post and fully house it 45 mm


cheers paul

have you looked at using Joist Hangers?

Yeah using joist hangers against the house ledger, Double bearer one either side housed into post, then joist over bearer butting into ledger with joist hangers. Someone told me not to but Joist into the ledger board rather to have them on top, but I got height issues? is this a major?

Originally Posted by dub3media

How do you determine the floor load of a deck?

Friends x grog x BBQ + food = load

gday dub3media

joist hangers if installed properly will be fine as they are rated to accept residential floor loads. the thing to consider as well is the frequency and size of the fixings you use on your whaling plate (ledger). pryda fb4590's for your joist hangers with 10 nails will match the strength of the dyna's.

i would suggest 1 x M8 (10mm dia.) x 100mm dyna for 2 joists - this will exceed your requirements by roughly 4 times the design load but the size down will not be long enough to be practical - be sure to drill into the brick itself 55mm deep, no closer to any edge than 1/2 the brick's height. the specs also say do not get closer than 100mm to a corner of the wall you are fixing to.

if you're not familiar with setting dyna's - be sure to hammer them in with the nut on the thread, the nut should be wound onto the thread so a small piece of the nut itself extends past the top of the thread - when you strike it with a hammer the nut will protect the thread from damage. use a suitable washer & drill the hole in the whaler 10-20% larger to allow for movement, to protect your brickwork from cracking.

r's brynk

looking at your photos i see the whaler is already on; looks stout!

Yeah brynk I was going to fix the ledger to the block wall but then because of the height issue with the retaining wall and the size of the deck that was extentending out to the grass had to fix it into the floor joists, (end grain) I asked my boss at work about this and he said it would be fine, used 150mm coach screws drilled a pillot hole just into the floor joist to stop them from splitting, feels solid !

dont know if you can see from the pic but there is an overhang of 200mm from the cladding to the block wall, couldnt pack it out that much