Thread: Pool deck

Andy, I am confident that you can do It yourself and you will do it well. It will take a little while but you can do it. Modwood is a good choice too.

Here is a pic of the pool.

Would the frame and joists need to be set in concrete or would I need something like a deck block? Or will it be rigid enough once all screwed together?

Just trying to work out if I’m out of my league here.

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Originally Posted by Wongo

Andy, I am confident that you can do It yourself and you will do it well. It will take a little while but you can do it. Modwood is a good choice too.

Thanks mate, I’ll check modwood out.

If anyone can start something and finish it well it’s you.
Id suggest that RWbuild can give you some tips.

My experiences at work suggest that having a plan to keep the pool gate/ fence secure with little ones around would be important

Originally Posted by Pac man

If anyone can start something and finish it well it’s you.
Id suggest that RWbuild can give you some tips.

My experiences at work suggest that having a plan to keep the pool gate/ fence secure with little ones around would be important

Thanks Paul. I won’t be doing anything to the pool fence/gate, it’s just removing the pavers and putting a deck in place.

Just thinking through the process that I did when I built my shed deck. I started with concrete pads about 350x350, which are about 100mm high, but also have a "belly" going down into the ground perhaps 60-80mm. They have some reo steel in them. I got them as close as I could to the correct height and then just adjusted with "packers" which are in different thicknesses 1.5, 3, 5, 8 mm (you can buy a mixed box for not much).



They are at 1500 centres. Bearers (4x3 hardwood in my case) went on to the pads, again at 1500 centres, and then treated pine joists went onto the bearers at I think 450 centres. Where I'm going to there is that the total depth required from ground to top of deck is
100mm pads
100mm bearers
90mm joists
20mm (?) modwood
Total 310mm

You want a reasonable clearance between the ground and the bottom of the bearers. I have 100mm (thickness of the pads), and you wouldn't want the pads too much thinner than that.

So you would have to dig down 310 - 50 (paver thickness) = 260mm below the current bottom of the pavers, if you were doing the same construction. You would also have to ensure that the earth surface that you finish can drain away water because it can't just run off the edge of the pavers as it currently does (not a particularly difficult thing to do, btw).

Digging down will produce quite a bit of waste fill to be disposed of.

I did coat the bearers with erzatz creosote, but as you know it is not exposed to direct rainfall. In your case I would be inclined to at least paint the bearers and joists with three coats of paint BEFORE laying them, and then use the specialist plastic strip to cover them (can't think of it's name now, but Ray will). Basically try to keep as much water as possible off the joists and bearers.

When it came to building the woodstore shed, I change the pad technique slightly. I pre-cast them using 200mm and 250mm water pipe. They are flat top and bottom. Really easy to make.



As Paul says, Ray will no doubt have excellent advice for you, and might have a simpler construction technique than mine.

Btw, I agree with Wongo on the Modwood - the last thing you want to do is have timber exposed to sun and pool water. You'll just be (expensively) changing one form of maintenance for another.

Andy, you walked on Modwood when were at my place and we went downstairs from the workshop to inspect the sewing room. It is 20 years old and was the first generation and you can see it has worked out well for wear and general durability. The deck that surrounds our pool I built on my own the first time and yours is a doddle compared to that. I would not use either Modwood or hardwood around a pool, the Modwood gets too hot and the hardwood as it get older could splinter and injure feet. Treated pine is still my choice even though mine lasted about twenty years and we had to pull it back to the hardwood bearers and totally rebuild it. Use stainless screws when you do it and you can always get them out when needed. I think it was about 3,500 screws in mine including the fence and they aren't all that expensive bought in bulk lots. If you use Modwood I would go for smaller bearer/joist centres as it does flex a bit more than pine and a lot more than hardwood.

The plank direction is very important around a free form shape pool as you can cut the ends in to the wall at the best angle, in other words perpendicular to the pool. Laid the other way and it would be just about impossible to get the planks long ways and snug to the walls of the pool. I made spacers to get the planks even from 5mm thick material which saved a lot of mucking around. Brett made/has? a water level or if you want I have a laser level you can use.

As for acid washing I went another way, my son got in the pool with a high pressure washer and blasted it but it can be a long process because the water becomes very murky. The biggest issue is how far down do you have to excavate to get the clear space for the deck to be flush with the pool combing and what sort of soil is it. When the pool gets used by a herd of kids the deck takes a pounding and the piers will want to be deep enough to resist but providing there are no rocks in the way a small borer will put piers down deep enough for that.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

the Modwood gets too hot
Use stainless screws when you do it and you can always get them out when needed. Yup - Mitre 10 has them cheap, Bunnings prolly do too.
smaller bearer/joist centres as it does flex a bit more than pine and a lot more than hardwood.

I was nearly going to say that I thought Modwood might get hot - in the dark colours anyway. Here are some colours, and Sahara appears to be the lightest - "brushed" would be best for a wet area.

On Chris's suggestion about smaller distances between joists - it doesn't cost too much extra to do that. You could even do joists at 300 centres for not a whole lot extra money, and you don't necessarily have to screw into each joist - every second one (for 300 centres) would probably be enough, and if there are any bouncing boards you can screw them down later.

G'Day Andy

Critical question, is the pool concrete or fibreglass?
The property next door on the left, how far is their land below your existing paver level?

I am fortunate that I can buy well made SS screws from a few different specialist fastener suppliers at what I reckon are reasonable prices, under $10/hundred box the last time I did it and I might have a better source now but I haven't tried him.

The existing pavers look to be concrete. Have you considered ripping them up and relaying kiln fired clay pavers? It's my experience clay pavers don't collect the dirt as significantly as concrete pavers and look a lot better all the time. Properly laying new pavers (using a plate compactor and new sand) would be easier than building a deck and wouldn't alter the finish height much.

Alright, I’ve done quite a bit of research over the past 24 hours. To do the deck properly I’d be looking at easily over $3000 in materials plus I’d have to find time to get around to build it before December.

I think I need to be realistic, and it’s unlikely I’ll be able to finish it in time. I’m spending quite a bit of money getting new equipment in the pool, so it would really annoy me if I have a half finished deck to contend with whilst using it over summer.

So I’ve decided I’ll stick to my original idea of pavers with pebbles. Sort of like the picture below, but maybe a more random pattern. I’ll paint the pavers that immediately surround the pool, then rip up the existing pavers and either replace them with something that contrasts with the freshly painted pavers, or just paint them the same colour. The missus has a thing about things matching so I’ll need to chat to her about it. I think I’d prefer new pavers.

This will be much easier and shouldn’t take too long. I’m thinking once the pavers are removed, ill add a weed mat as I’m so over weeding. Then just lay out the pattern I like, add some mortar and drop in the pavers. Adjust and level and move on. Then add the pebbles and that’s it. Any comments on this?

Cheers

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Originally Posted by rwbuild

G'Day Andy

Critical question, is the pool concrete or fibreglass?
The property next door on the left, how far is their land below your existing paver level?

Hi Ray,

It’s a concrete pool. Not entirely sure how far it is, I’ll get a rough measurement soon.

Cheers