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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    335

    Default TIP - Getting the warp out of ur boards

    I had some boards that were warped a little funny...was hard to bend back and screw in...since I was on my own...I went to the garage for some assitance...and the carjack was just yelling at me...This worked a treat...

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sydney
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    86

    Default

    On those wide planks you're using I imagine they can need some persuading!
    I found a 2m scrap of pine wedged into the ground and pushed with my shoulder was enough to straighten the board long enough to drill the hole and get the screw in.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Frankston-Langwarrin VIC
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    61
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    477

    Default

    That's pretty inventive. I like it.

    Because I work alone and need to pull boards in pretty tight I use this tool pictured. It's actually made for decking. It's called a Bo-Deck.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    129

    Default

    Where do you get the bo-deck from?

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    335

    Default

    OH you are joking.!!! That thing is awsome. I was sittin there imagining that tool that would wedge itself on a joist with a spring loaded arm...Its sorta close to what I had imagined. Thats awsome!

    I always have these ides of tools that would fitt the job perfectly....LOL...i should put them to some use.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    63
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    1,619

    Default

    That looks like a similar idea to my old floor clamps. It looks like the Bo-Deck is more lightweight, but it seems to require constant pressure.
    With a pair of floor clamps, and a long plank, you can clamp a long run and it will stay there.

    Lots of ways to skin a cat though. If it wasn't for the joist capping, I'd just use a chisel driven on an angle into the joist as a lever. Alternatively, screw the following board down and wedge back from it. Or install it with the bow inwards, and wedge back from the two fixed ends.


  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Glad you like it. It's pretty cool,huh!

    I spotted it in Fine Home Building magazine some five years ago and ordered one in from the States. It arrived four days later. I only had one hiccup and that was when the clown rang me from New York at 2 o'clock in the morning to confirm my order.

    Once you get the hang of it, you can position it just right so that you can pull the board in and the tool will stay there tight, effectively giving you a third hand. Very cool.

    The two parts you see on the tool are also reversible, so instead of pulling the boards in, you can alternatively set it up to push the boards away from you, if that makes it any easier.

    Along with the great cramping action I also find it invaluable for tearing out old boards when I do repair work. In these photos you can see that I have removed the attachments needed for clamping and have replaced them with two additional pieces of tube steel that are used like jaws to simply rip the boards apart. Makes pulling out old boards or decking damn fast.

    Also, there are spacers that come with it so that the jaws can be set wider, enabling me to remove joists and wall studs quickly.

  9. #8
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    Apr 2005
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    Sydney
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    63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty View Post
    Once you get the hang of it, you can position it just right so that you can pull the board in and the tool will stay there tight, effectively giving you a third hand. Very cool.
    Yeh, I see now. It looks like an improvement over the old heavy floor clamps. Mine are a bit of a mongrel to get working properly, but that looks like a really simple design.

    And I've stripped quite a few floors in the past with a jemmy bar, but that looks like a really quick and effective way to do it.


  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    129

  11. #10
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    Apr 2005
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    Default

    It wouldn't take that long to make one. Probably less than ten bucks in steel, and a few bolts would do it.


  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by pawnhead View Post
    It wouldn't take that long to make one. Probably less than ten bucks in steel, and a few bolts would do it.

    Funny you say that...i bought the stuff to do it ages ago and never got round to it partly cause i doubted the effectiveness of the tool to start with i spose and part lasy

    How is it to use if you want to maintain a gap as in decking do you need to put in a packer or just hold the bar at the set point to maintain the gap

    cheers utemad

  13. #12
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    Mar 2007
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    sydney
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    what a price difference considering the aussie dollar at the moment

    cheers utemad

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ACT
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by UteMad View Post
    what a price difference considering the aussie dollar at the moment

    cheers utemad
    It would'nt supprise me if the guy selling them on ebay is getting them from the other website at around that price then putting his margin on it.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Frankston-Langwarrin VIC
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    61
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by UteMad View Post

    How is it to use if you want to maintain a gap as in decking do you need to put in a packer or just hold the bar at the set point to maintain the gap

    cheers utemad
    Spacer is the go.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    159

    Default

    • 250kg rated 2m long irwin clamp - $40
    • 4mm tassie oak spacers, cut to size by the apprentice - $1.60
    • 4 beers & a vodka for the apprentice; no swearing - priceless

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