Thread: Installing a shower

I've fitted lamipanel both directly to studs and onto fibro, both work. I'd be hesitant about fitting directly to the studs now as it makes it impossible to fit a full waterproof membrane. The plastic corner moulds are supposedly waterproof but I tend to be very cautious with waterproofing as any leakage can be disastrously expensive to rectify. I need to guarantee my work and a call back would be costly, both in terms of my reputation as well as time and money.

Mick

So why would Laminex say not to put Lamipanel over fibro? I can't see the reason, myself and as you said, it's better for waterproofing.

The problem might be with the adhesive laminex manufactures for use with lamipanel. It's similar to liquid nails/maxbond. I don't use these types of adhesives at all anymore as they have a tendency (in the heat up here at any rate) to go hard and let go after a while. I use polyurethane adhesive/sealants like Sikaflex or Bostik Matrix. These are more expensive but are worth the peace of mind. I've fitted heaps of lamipanel over the years to all types of substrates, timber, fibro, blockwork, tiles and lots of aluminium boats and I've never had any problems using the polyurethane.

Mick

OK... so if you attach Lamipanel over the Villaboard, what spacing would you use for studs/noggins behind the Villaboard? I assume that you wouldn't need as many since the Villaboard would re-enforce everything.

If you use 6mm sheeting then 600 centres is fine, for 4.5mm sheeting use 450 centres(not sure if villa comes in this, I know that hardiflex does/did).

Mick

No, I think 6mm is standard.

One more question.... under the shower base - do I need some sort of waterproofing? It's a "synthetic marble" (i.e. standard...) moulded shower base and will be installed on a yellow-tongue floor. I've recessed the bottom plates/studs to take it, and I was thinking of putting a layer of plastic sheet under the concrete bed and up the walls a little... but then I thought that the whole thing could still just slide over the floor since there's nothing to keep the plastic from moving. What's the right way to do it? I've searched the internet everywhere and can't find anything - everyone tells you how to install a custom-built base, but not a moulded one.

Hmm, you've got me there, I've searched my memory banks and I don't think I've ever fitted a plastic tray. I have however fitted plenty of fibreglass and plastic tubs and "shubs" (all in one shower/small bath enclosures) and I would assume the same applies. I install these on a bed of "compo". This is a stiff concrete mix (usually using fine aggregate or cracker dust). On timber or structafloor I nail down a piece of fibro first then place blobs of compo down and force the shub down. You may have to lift it off and add/subtract compo as required. When you've got it right add just a smidgen more so you get good contact/suction. The compo will hold the item in place as well as providing support. When fitting a tub it's easier as its possible to pack a lot of it in once the tub's in place. Check with the manufacturer of the tray for their recommendations.

Mick

It's not plastic - the manufacturer calls it "synthetic marble" and it weighs like concrete! It's just a standard shower base - as far as I knew, that's what they were all like. It does look a bit like fibreglass underneath (but without the fibres), but it's smooth as a babies rear end on top and is very heavy.

Okay, sounds like the "cast resin" they make some vanity tops out of, looks like a cross between fibreglass and concrete. Again check with manufacturer/supplier as to fixing recommendations. If no specific method is suggested, I would recommend using Sikaflex or Bostix Matrix to glue it down to the floor, making sure to prime both surfaces to the adhesive manufacturer's recommendations.

Mick

They actually tell you to put a 10mm min cement mix underneath it - but I was concerned about the idea of just throwing the cement straight on the wood. The cement sheet underneath sounds like a good idea, though.

Yeah, I think I'd make it like a stiff mortar, maybe put a bit of lime in it so it sticks real well to both the tray and the fibro on the floor.

Mick