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Thread: Insulation

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    North Perth, Western Australia
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    58
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    9

    Default Insulation

    Hi All,
    My first post, so here goes.
    We are about to start a major house renovation (after waiting seven months for bricks!) and have been looking at options for insulation. I was keen to go with the R3.5 fibreglass batts and do it myself however I have been told that fibreglass is not in favour any more and the polyester batts are the go. I need to insulate the first floor and the roof of the extension and will be doing so from inside the house (before gyprocking).
    Does anyone have any any comments about the best insulation for both thermal and acoustic use?
    By the way, This is a great site. I have learned a great deal from reading other's messages and then doing the homework myself.
    So, thanks
    Todd

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Bertram, WA
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    56
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    Lightbulb

    G'day Toddy,

    I have 2.5 batts in my roof and whilst they work very well i would have prefered to install anticon (if i could have affored it at the time) This is commonly used in industrial, however it is also used in domestic. My father-in-law has it and it is far better than batts.

    Thats my phonecard worth
    Cheers,
    Darren (aka Felix)

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
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    Default

    Toddy

    When doing insulation there are a few things to consider.

    First of all if you are looking for acoustic insulation it is best to use Rockwool Insulation usually available from Bradford. The Thicker the better. It will also provide you with thermal insulation but is usually dearer than fibreglass. Polyester is ok but will need much thicker batts to provide the same R rating.

    If you wanted to get away from fibreglass you could also consider natural wool insulation. I have R3.0 fibreglass batts in both the walls as well as the roof. I live in a very cold winter area, down to minus 9 degrees C.

    Although using anticon is probaly the best way to go you have to have a steel roof to use it.

    Insulating the walls is just as important as the ceiling as you will lose as much heat in the winter and gain as much heat in the summer through the walls as you will through the roof.

    When insulating you should use a vapour barrier between the gyprock and the insulation to stop the insulation taking up condensation from with in the building.

    Fibreglass is ok just use disposable overalls, eye protection and gloves when putting it in.

    You don't need as high a "R" rating for summer as for winter.

    R2.5 is fine for summer R3.0 or higher for cold climates.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    At one time i did a lot of domestic antenna instalation & crawled in quite a few cielings & offer the following couple of things to consider

    fibreglass & rock wool are the only insulation that does not burn, smoke or smolder at all.

    Fibre glass does present known health risks.

    the fire performance of wool insulation is dependent on how well it is scoured.

    the blown in paper stuff does blow arround in the roof, rodents love to nest in it. And is a real mess if the roof leaks.

    those folding foil bats do work to a point but any tradesman has no option but to make a mess of them if he needs to work in your roof.

    I'll crawl arround on polyester batts all day if the weather ts cool.

    with any insulation care during installation is important regarding fitting & clearing protrusions especially electrical items.

    Most insulation installers count on you not looking in your roof.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Soundman is correct on all these things.

    Just one point on the blown in paper stuff (The correct name is cellulous fibre) is treated with Borax to inhibit flame. The only problem with that is that the Borax leeches out over a period of time and becomes highly inflamable.

    The other problem with the Borax is that it corrodes things such as gang nails and other steel items.

    I know of two houses burnt down because of it catching a light.

    Both were incidents of plumbers up in the roof using a gas torch doing some soldering of copper pipes and by accident touched the insulation by mistake with the torch and they were lucky to escape with their lives although the houses burnt down.

    I have a friend who actually removes this insulation from roofs with a special dust extractor that would suck a bowling ball out of a cupboard.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    It is interesting that in the theatrical industry, borax bassed chemicals such as "rosco flamex" are used on curtaining and have a limited life.
    All theatrical curtaining should have a sewn in tag on the back stating the product & date of treatment. The law in most states specifies the re treatment period.

    I don't like paper insulation in houses for a variety of reasons.

    I hate fibreglass but you have to admit it is very competitive on fire safety.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quick hint on working with any fibreglass product - after handling have a COLD shower to clean off as hot water opens the pores in your skin and lets all the nasty little itchy bits in where they will irritate for days!
    Bite off more than you can chew... then chew like hell!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Sydney
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    Default all the above is true

    Yep - all the above comments are correct.

    I have been selling all types of insulation now for over 16 years and of the seven types available in the Aust market, fibreglass still can;t be beat for it's cost and inflammability. Although the dust is carcenogenic it remains inert when enclosed in any space - the roof and walls.

    Make sure you wear fully top to toe protection when putting it in and use a breather mask.

    visit my site - www.tradeconnect.com.au and visit our materials mall for costing comparisons on the 2 most popular types - fibreglass and polyester.
    Fred Mancer

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