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  1. #1
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    Aug 2007
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    Default Please help with Vulcan Quasar Wiring

    Hello,

    I've replaced the motor in my Vulcan Quasar gas wall furnace and yes i know I'm a knob for forgetting, i forgot to write down which order some of the wiring goes. I assume that they are all actives and it doesn't matter which order they are in (single phase) but i thought I'd check to make sure.

    The cables are marked B3, L1 and H2 there are no corresponding markings on the connector.(Please see pic below) on the plus side the brand new shiny motor is in and once again i can look forward to some nice heating, once i figure this bit out.

    Any help is appreciated.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    the 'burn
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    using a multimeter, take the resistance readings between l&b, l&h and b&h. take resistance readings between all three to the frame of the motor and to the frame of the heater [seperately of course]

    let us know what the results are.

    does the motor have a lump or bulge on the outside of the casing. this would only be small, or do any of the wires connect to a capacitor? if so, which ones connect to it.

    where/from what do these wires originate from? if you can follow them all the way back to the power supply, good. Tell us where they originate and what colour wire they connect to.

    also, what colour are these wires, i can't really tell from the photos.

    do you have a wiring diagram at all [yes, it is a long shot] this could be located in the installation book if you still have it, or on the back of a panel/cover. if you do, scan it or make a good, correct copy of it.

  4. #3
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    Aug 2007
    Location
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    Default

    Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately my multi is busted and i don't have access to one ATM. Those wires don't originate from the motor, I’ve already wired up the motor. Sorry about the poor pics, i have a very crappy digi cam, i just bought this house and it had this wall furnace in it already from 1982, lol. It has been shielded appropriately to comply with current regulations but no manual or diagram. When i purchased the new motor it came with a 1uf capacitor, the old motor had no capacitor and i don't know where to connect it. I will take more pictures when i get home. I don't usually touch appliances. I've basically only done domestic and commercial wiring not so much these kind of things. this is not to say i'm incompetent but rather inexperienced with this heater.

    Please excuse my crappy drawing of the connectors, i only did it quickly in paint.<O</O

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flasher View Post
    Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately my multi is busted and i don't have access to one ATM. Those wires don't originate from the motor, I’ve already wired up the motor. Sorry about the poor pics, i have a very crappy digi cam, i just bought this house and it had this wall furnace in it already from 1982, lol. It has been shielded appropriately to comply with current regulations but no manual or diagram. When i purchased the new motor it came with a 1uf capacitor, the old motor had no capacitor and i don't know where to connect it. I will take more pictures when i get home. I don't usually touch appliances. I've basically only done domestic and commercial wiring not so much these kind of things. this is not to say i'm incompetent but rather inexperienced with this heater.

    Please excuse my crappy drawing of the connectors, i only did it quickly in paint.<O</O

    from what does b3 l1 and h2 originate?... not just a block, but what else do they connect to. can you see if any connect to neutral, active or earth.

    if the new motor has a cap, this will either be already connected to active or you will need to connect it. this type of motor features two windings, one with the cap, one without. the cap causes the magnetic field of the winding to peak after the otherwinding, which causes the motion. if the cap is seperate from the motor, you will need to connect it to one winding on one side, and to active on the other. the other winding will be connected to this active...

    it would be something like this... active & one winding ]capacitor[ other winding.

    both windings will be connected to neutral.

    if you get the camera going, take a better photo of the red connector, and where all the terminations are.. especially the connectors where wires originate from.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    Hi,

    Ok well I've figured out which way they go now, from left to right L1, h2, b3. These are switching modes for the fan, high, low and medium settings. Now I've put it all together and i get a quiet buzzing noise from the motor when i turn it on, i know I've done the switch section fine but something else is not right. Once again i will have to check it out next week when have more time.



    I wired up the new motor exactly the same as the old one. The old one had a white and a brown wire terminated (not going anywhere) but when i wired up the new motor illustrated below as 'setup 1' it had a mild buzzing noise and would not start.

    So this prompted me to try and connect the blue and brown cables together as illustrated in 'setup 2' this did not to anything, no noise nothing. So I'm confused as to why it's not working when I've wired it the exact same way as the old motor. Anyway i will have to look into it next week, busy weekend ahead. Now I'm starting to think i do need a multimeter



    I assume from my wiring past that on the new motor blue and brown are both actives (perhaps two windings) and the black is neutral and well earth is earth. The old motor worked with just one active and one neutral, i hope i don't have to wire in an extra active for the two windings as you say.

    *Added 3/8
    Well I've exhausted a lot of options today, i tried running the capacitor in multiple different configurations with no success. I'm currently trying to search the net for a wiring diagram for this unit, that would put an end to this confusion.

    Test 1 Cap between blue(current in) and brown(motor)
    Test 2 Cap between blue(current in) and blue (motor)
    Test 3 Cap between blue(motor) and brown (twisted with blue current in)

  7. #6
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    Aug 2007
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    Bloody hell, well i finally got it working without the use of a multimeter and i could not find any wiring diagrams on the net, my supplier said it was 'illegal' for them to give me with a motor diagram, which i thought was stupid, i am licensed ffs.

    Anyway this is a working setup, glad i can finally put it together and work on something else, lol.

    Thanks for your help.

    Readers: Please don't attempt to do this by yourself unless you know what you're doing.

    I guess you could say this is a diagram for a new Vulcan Quasar wall furnace if anyone licensed has to replace a screwed motor with one of the newer ones you could use this as a guide only.


  8. #7
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    that's what i was trying to describe in my last respone, but i am unsure how successfully i managed it... hopefully i was of some help though. probably not :S

    but anyway, good job.

  9. #8
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    Thanks a lot thatirwinfella you did help, looking back on your response it does make sense now. I'm just more of a visual person, i like to see diagrams etc. makes it easier.

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